REPAIRING AND NOT THROWING AWAY

REPAIRING AND NOT THROWING AWAY

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

In Brief: On this site you will find pictures and technical information about Service Modes, Circuit Diagrams, Firmware Update procedure, Disassemble procedure, Universal remote control set-up codes, Troubleshooting and more....

If you go into the profession, you will obtain or have access to a variety of tech tips databases HERE IT IS Master Electronics Repair !.

These are an excellent investment where the saying: 'time-is-money' rules. However, to learn, you need to develop a general troubleshooting approach - a logical, methodical, method of narrowing down the problem. A tech tip database might suggest: 'Replace C536' for a particular symptom. This is good advice for a specific problem on one model. However, what you really want to understand is why C536 was the cause and how to pinpoint the culprit in general even if you don't have a service manual or schematic and your tech tip database doesn't have an entry for your sick TV or VCR.

While schematics are nice, you won't always have them or be able to justify the purchase for a one-of repair. Therefore, in many cases, some reverse engineering will be necessary. The time will be well spent since even if you don't see another instance of the same model in your entire lifetime, you will have learned something in the process that can be applied to other equipment problems.
As always, when you get stuck, checking out a tech-tips database may quickly identify your problem and solution.In that case, you can greatly simplify your troubleshooting or at least confirm a diagnosis before ordering parts.

Happy repairing!
Today, the West is headed for the abyss. For the ultimate fate of our disposable society is for that society itself to be disposed of. And this will happen sooner, rather than later.

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Note that if you don't find what you searched for, try it after a period of time; the site is a never ending job !

..............The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of todays funny gadgets low price has faded from memory........ . . . . . .....
Don't forget the past, the end of the world is upon us! Pretty soon it will all turn to dust!

©2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 Frank Sharp - You do not have permission to copy photos and words from this blog, and any content may be never used it for auctions or commercial purposes, however feel free to post anything you see here with a courtesy link back, btw a link to the original post here , is mandatory.
All posts are presented here for informative, historical and educative purposes as applicable within fair use. NOTHING HERE IS FOR SALE !

Wednesday 10 April 2019

APPLE IPAD 4 CDMA – HOW TO REPLACE THE BATTERY

Apple iPad 4 CDMA – How to replace the battery


Apple iPad 4 CDMA; BATTERY REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE 
Slightly warm up the edges of front panel using hot air gun.
Releasing the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and slide the opening pick around the top left corner.
Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. The digitizer cable is located approximately 2" from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get 2.25" from the bottom of the iPad.
Using the opening pick that is still underneath the bottom edge of the iPad, release the adhesive along the bottom left corner. The bottom of the digitizer cable is only ~1" from the bottom of the iPad. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not sever this cable.
Using one of the opening picks, pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad and grab it with your fingers.
Some of the adhesive along the perimeter of the iPad may have stuck back down again. If this is the case, slide a pick underneath the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still stuck and "cut" the adhesive.
Holding the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, rotate the front glass away from the iPad. Be careful of any adhesive that may still be attached, and use an opening pick to cut any adhesive that may still be holding the front panel down.
Remove the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD to the aluminum frame. The bottom left screw is obscured by the home button ribbon cable connector. Carefully move the home button ribbon cable aside to remove the bottom left screw.
Using a plastic opening tool or a spudger, lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. Rotate the LCD along its left edge and lay it down on top of the front glass panel. Be careful as you move the LCD. The ribbon cable is fragile and may break if it is flexed too much.
Using the tip of a spudger, peel back the piece of tape covering the LCD ribbon cable connector.
Flip up the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. Using your fingers or a pair of tweezers, pull the LCD ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.
Without touching the front of the LCD, lift the LCD off the front panel.
If present, remove the piece of electrical tape covering the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable.
Flip up the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
De-route the home button ribbon cable from its recess in the rear case.
Using the tip of a spudger, peel back the piece of tape that secures the digitizer ribbon cable to the logic board.
Flip up the retaining flap on both of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors.
Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the adhesive underneath the digitizer ribbon cable. Pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its sockets on the logic board.
Peel back the digitizer ribbon cable and use the flat end of a spudger to release the adhesive securing the cable to the rear aluminum case.
Using your fingers, pull the digitizer ribbon cable out of its recess in the aluminum frame.
Remove the front panel from the iPad.
Peel back and remove the piece of electrical tape covering the headphone jack assembly cable connector. Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors securing the headphone jack cable to the logic board.
Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the headphone jack assembly cable, releasing the adhesive securing it to the rear aluminum frame. Pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
Peel back and remove the piece of tape covering the SIM board cable ZIF connector. Flip up the retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector. Using the tip of a spudger, pull the SIM board cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
Disconnect the following connectors from their respective sockets on the logic board:
Wi-Fi antenna cable
Speaker connector cable.
Dock/Lightning connector cable. There may be a piece of black tape covering this connector. Remove it with tweezers.
Make sure to pry underneath the connector and not the socket itself. Prying on the socket itself may cause severe damage.
Remove the following seven screws securing the logic board to the rear aluminum panel.
Six 2.1mm Phillips #00 One of these screws, at the top of the logic board, is tucked beneath the headphone jack assembly cable. Take care to hold the cable out of the way while removing and replacing this screw.
One 2.5mm Phillips #00
Holding the logic board by the side nearest the dock connector, carefully pull the logic board toward the bottom of the iPad.
Flip the logic board over, minding any cables that may get caught. Using the tip of a spudger, remove the three antenna connectors from their sockets on the logic board.
The battery is very firmly glued to the aluminum frame using copious amounts of strong adhesive. In the following steps, you will be removing the adhesive from underneath the battery 2 inches at a time. This will prevent too much stress being put on the battery. Be very careful to not puncture or damage the battery as you remove it from the iPad. Batteries contain toxic chemicals that can be harmful if ingested or inhaled.
Insert the flat end of a metal spudger underneath the battery near the bottom of the iPad. Slide the metal spudger approximately 1.5" underneath the battery, releasing the adhesive. The adhesive is very strong. Loosening the adhesive requires considerable force. Work slowly and carefully, making sure that the metal spudger does not slip.
In the same manner as described above, slide the spudger ~2" underneath the other adhesive strips.
Carefully slide the metal spudger underneath the battery connector, releasing the adhesive securing it in place.
Continue releasing the adhesive near the top of the battery.
Starting where the last pass left off, insert the metal spudger another two inches underneath the battery. As you push the spudger further underneath the battery, keep it as flat against the rear case as possible to avoid bending the battery. Repeat this process for the remaining adhesive strips.
In the same manner as previously described, continue loosening the adhesive on all the strips to a depth of ~4".
For the last pass, push the metal spudger all the way to the right edge of the iPad. Continue to do this for all of the adhesive strips.
Make sure that all the adhesive glue has been loosed from the battery.
Gently lift the left side of the battery up, rotating it toward the right side of the iPad. Use the metal spudger to loosen any adhesive that may still be holding the battery in place
Remove the battery from the iPad.
Posted By: FRANK at 02:21
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