Wacker Neuson GP 2600_GP 3800A_GP 4000 _GP 5600A / GPS 5600A _GP 6600A / GPS 6600A Generator Troubleshoot
Voltage Selector Switch_Idle Solenoid_After-fire.
Checking and Installing the Voltage Selector Switch (VSS)
The VSS (a)
selects the voltage
mode setting of
the generator. Changing
the voltage mode
also changes the
orientation of the Automatic Voltage Regulator (AVR) sensing
wires. Use the following information when testing and installing the VSS.
Checking Voltage to Auto Idle Solenoid
Problems with the auto idle system can be classified into
one of two categories: electrical problems with power to the idle solenoid or
problems with the mechanical linkage. Before checking the electrical system,
check the governor mechanical linkage (a) to make sure it’s functioning
properly.
Electrical problems can be further broken down in to two
categories: 1) power generation by the generator, 2) problems with the
electrical circuit feeding power to the solenoid.
* Start the generator.
* Unplug the two white/red wires (b) from the idle solenoid.
Measure the voltage between the two wires. There should be 28±2VDC.
If 28±2VDC is measured, the idle solenoid is receiving the
correct voltage. If the idle solenoid is receiving the correct voltage but is
still not functioning, confirm that it is bad by measuring the resistance of
the solenoid’s coil. The coil should measure 26–33 Ohms (16–19 Ohms Wacker
Engine). Replace the solenoid if the correct resistance is not measured.
* If 28±2VDC is not measured, continue.
* Stop the generator.
* Remove the screws which secure the control panel to the
enclosure.
* Remove the 5A fuse (c). Start the generator and check the
voltage across the fuse holder. There should be 20–29 Volts.
> If 20–29 Volts is measured, the source of the problem is in
the circuit from the fuse to the idle solenoid.
> If 20–29 Volts is not measured, the source of the problem is
in the circuitry between the fuse and the DC winding.
* Reinstall the 5A fuse (replace the fuse if it is blown).
Checking Auto Idle Circuitry between Generator and Fuse
Voltage may be prevented from reaching the 5A fuse by a
faulty rectifier or by a faulty DC winding. The auto idle circuit may also be
malfunctioning due to faulty sensing wires. To check the circuit, carry out the
following procedures:
* Stop the generator.
* Remove the two screws which secure the end cover to the
generator and remove the end cover.
To check the rectifier (a), remove the connector plug from
the rectifier. Use the diode scale on
your multimeter. Probe the top terminal with one lead and the bottom terminal
with the other. Then, reverse the leads and conduct the test again. The
rectifier should conduct in one direction and not the other. Check both upper
terminals of the rectifier to the lower terminal of the rectifier in the same
manner.
> If the rectifier is malfunctioning, replace it.
> If the rectifier is functioning, continue.
* Remove the plug (b) from the stator.
* Using
the Ohms scale on your multimeter, check the resistance
of the DC winding. Each generator size will have a different value for
the winding resistance. Check the chart in the graphic for the
correct values—use a tolerance of +0.5/-0.0 Ohms. If the correct amount
of resistance was not
measured, replace the stator.
> If the correct amount of resistance was measured, the DC
winding is OK; continue.
> Remove the screws which secure the control panel to the
generator.
Check that the sensing wires are running through the ammeter
(c) of the auto idle unit.
Check the continuity of the sensing wires (d) from the auto
idle unit through to the generator terminal strip (e).
Checking Auto Idle Circuitry Between Fuse and Auto Idle Unit
Voltage may be prevented from reaching the idle solenoid by
a faulty auto idle switch or by a faulty auto idle unit. To check the circuit,
carry out the following procedure:
Stop the generator.
* Remove the screws which secure the control panel to the
generator. Locate the auto idle switch
(a).
* Check
the continuity of the auto idle switch. If the switch lacks continuity,
replace it. If the switch has continuity, it should be
functioning.
* Remove the plug from the back of the auto idle unit (b).
* Start the generator.
* Check the voltage between the red and black wires of the
plug. There should be 20–29V. At this point in the troubleshooting, you should
have measured voltage at the fuse but not at the idle solenoid, and the auto
idle switch should have checked OK. Therefore:
> If voltage is measured to the auto idle unit but not at the
idle solenoid, the auto idle unit is malfunctioning, replace it.
> If no voltage is measured at the auto idle unit, check the
wiring between the fuse and the auto idle unit. Repair or replace the wiring as
needed.
Checking Anti-Afterfire Solenoid (AAS) Circuit _ Honda Engine.
* Check the 5A
fuse. See section
Checking Voltage to
Auto Idle Solenoid.
* Check the resistance of the DC winding. See section Checking
Auto Idle Circuitry Between Generator and Fuse.
* Check for voltage at the AAS by starting the generator,
probing the green and white wires (a) with your multimeter leads, then shutting
the engine off and measuring the voltage on the multimeter at shutdown.
There should be 18±2V.
> If the correct voltage was measured, the AAS is
malfunctioning; replace it.
> If the correct voltage was not measured, continue.
* Remove the screws that secure the control panel to the
generator.
* Check the continuity of the main ON/OFF switch. In the OFF
position it should have continuity across contacts 5 and 6—that is, between wires W/R (b) and W (c).
> If the main ON/OFF switch has no continuity, replace it.
> If the main ON/OFF switch has continuity, continue.
* Disconnect the capacitor (d).
A functioning capacitor
can hold up
to 30VDC; use care when discharging it. Discharge the capacitor by placing an
insulated screw driver or like tool across both of its leads. Then, check the
capacitor’s capacitance. It is rated at 1000 µF (microfarads) and should
measure within 10% of that
rating.
> If the correct capacitance is not measured, replace the
capacitor.
> If the correct capacitance is measured, the capacitor is OK.
All major components of the circuit have now been checked.
If the AAS is still not working, check the continuity of all the wires in the
circuit.
Repair or replace the wires as needed.
Diagnosing GFI Tripping
A common cause for nuisance tripping of the GFI is incorrect
wiring. If you experience tripping of the GFI when changing from the 120V mode
to the 240V mode, check the wiring running through the GFI. There should be
four brown wires and two blue wires running through the ammeter portion (a) of
the GFI. If you have any other combination, refer to the wiring schematic and
correct the situation.
If you’re not sure whether tripping of the main circuit
breaker is due to the GFI or due to the main circuit breaker, carry out the
following test:
* Turn off the generator.
* Disconnect yellow wire (b) from the shunt of the main
circuit breaker.
* Place the main circuit breaker in the 120V mode position.
* Start the generator and switch the main circuit breaker from
the 120V position to the 240V position.
If the GFI trips and its red light is on, the problem lies within the
GFI. Check the wiring through the ammeter portion of the GFI. If the wiring is
correct, replace the GFI.
>> If the GFI does not trip, the problem lies in the main
circuit breaker. Replace the main circuit breaker.
CLICK ON THE PICTURES TO MAGNIFY
WACKER NEUSON Generator TROUBLESHOOTING
WACKER NEUSON Generator _ How to check voltage at plug – voltage at
generator terminals strip
TROUBLESHOOTING
If a generator problem is not an obvious engine or wire
fault, the cause of the problem
will be associated
with one of
two things:
A malfunctioning generator or faults in the circuit
supplying voltage to the receptacles.
By starting the
troubleshooting procedures at the
generator output terminal strip (z) you can determine whether the problem lies
within the generator
or the circuit
supplying the receptacles. For troubleshooting a no-voltage condition,
you’ll need to rule out problems with the stator windings (1) and the rotor
windings (13). For a low-voltage condition (any voltage less than 120V), you’ll
need to rule out problems with the stator and rotor windings, a malfunctioning voltage
regulator (16), and problems with the brushes (13) and/or the excitation
winding (15). For a high-voltage condition, you’ll need to rule out a malfunctioning
voltage regulator and/or problems with the voltage regulator’s sensing wires
(y).
For troubleshooting the receptacle circuits, you’ll need to
rule out problems with the
main circuit breaker
(3), the individual
circuit breakers (5, 6,
and 7), and
the wiring that
connects all the components. For troubleshooting a malfunctioning auto
idle circuit, you’ll need to rule out a blown fuse (9) and problems with the
idle solenoid, the DC winding (15), the rectifier (12), the auto idle switch
(8), the auto idle unit (2), and the wiring that connects all the components. For troubleshooting a malfunctioning anti-after
fire circuit, you’ll need to rule out a faulty DC winding (15), a blown fuse
(9), a faulty engine ON/OFF switch (11), or a faulty capacitor (10).
Checking Continuity
Conduct continuity tests when the engine is shut down. When checking continuity, use the Ohm setting
on your multimeter. Place a lead of the
multimeter on one end of the wiring or component and the other lead on the
opposite end. If your meter reads “OL” or “OPEN”, there is no continuity and
the wiring or component must be repaired or replaced.
Note: Some multimeters
also have an audio signal setting for determining continuity. This setting may
also be used.
If your meter
reads less than
1.0 Ohm, or
the audio signal sounds, the wiring or component has
continuity and should be OK.
If your meter reads more than 1.0 Ohm, the wiring is faulty
and must be repaired or replaced.
Checking Resistance
Conduct
resistance checks when the engine is shut down. Use the Ohm setting on
your multimeter. Conduct resistance checks when the machine is
as close to 21°C (70°F) as possible. Higher temperatures can affect
resistance
values. Most digital multimeters have
some internal resistance. To obtain your
multimeter’s internal resistance, simply cross the two
leads of your multimeter and read the display. When conducting a resistance
check, subtract your multimeter’s
internal resistance from
the value you measure to obtain the true resistance of
the component you are checking
Checking Voltage
Conduct voltage checks when the engine is running. Use the Volt setting on your multimeter. To
prevent damage to your instrument, start with the highest scale available on
your multimeter. Adjust to a lower scale
as readings dictate. Use extreme caution
when checking voltage to reduce the risk of
electric shock.
Checking Voltage at Generator Terminal Strip
Remove the two screws (a) that secure the end cover to the
generator and remove the end cover.
Start the engine.
Using the AC voltage setting on the multimeter, measure the
voltage between the wire with the yellow marking (b) and the wire with the red marking
(c). There should be 120V±10%. [If zero (0) volts is measured, it indicates a
problem with main winding 2 or the rotor winding. If 120V±10% is measured, main winding 2 and
the rotor are functioning; continue]
Using the AC voltage setting on the multimeter, measure the
voltage between the wire with the green marking and the wire with the black marking.
There should be 120V±10%. [If zero (0) volts is measured, it indicates a
problem with main winding 1. If 120V±10%
is measured, main winding 1 and the rotor are functioning; any problems with
the receptacles receiving voltage are in the circuit to the receptacles.]
Checking Voltage at Plug - GP 2500A, GP 2600
By starting the troubleshooting procedures at the generator
output plug (d), you can determine whether the problem lies within the generator
or the circuit supplying the receptacles. To check the voltage at the output
plug, carry out the following procedures:
Remove the two screws which secure the end cover to the
generator and remove the end cover.
Start the engine.
Using the AC voltage setting on the multimeter, measure the
voltage between the red wire and the white. There should be 120V±10%. [If zero
(0) volts is measured, it indicates a problem with main winding 2 or the rotor
winding. If 120V±10% is measured, main
winding 2 and the rotor are functioning; continue.]
Using the AC voltage setting on the multimeter, measure the
voltage between the brown wire and the blue wire. There should be 120V±10% [If zero (0) volts is measured, it indicates
a problem with main winding 1. If
120V±10% is measured, main winding 1 and the rotor are functioning; any
problems with the receptacles receiving voltage are in the circuit to the
receptacles]
