FUNCTIONS DIAGNOSING / SYMPTOMS OF FROST FREE REFRIGERATORS (DEFROST SYSTEM)

Working of frost free refrigerators (defrost System)

There are many separate components in a refrigerator's defrost system that must work in consort for a frost free system to work properly. We will attempt to explain the workings using simplified electrical schematics.

The heart of the defrost system is the defrost timer. The timer is a motorized device that opens and closes electrical contacts. Each contact can be thought as a light switch, one controls the defrost cycle, the other the cooling system. When one of these is switched on, the other is switched off. A motor on the timer (NOT illustrated) turns a cam that opens and closes these contacts at set intervals (see below for other types).
Cooling Cycle

Refrigerator cycling on thermostat (cold control)During the cooling mode, the defrost timer closes a contact to the compressor circuit so it will run. The circuit to the defrost heater is open.

While in this mode, the thermostat (a.k.a. cold control) cycles the compressor and fan motors on and off to maintain an appropriate temperature.
Defrost Cycle

Active circuit in defrost cycle
The defrost timer eventually switches into defrost mode and supplies power to the defrost heater(s) to melt any frost that has accumulated on the evaporator (cooling) coil.

The cold control contacts remain closed but since the defrost timer is no longer feeding power to that circuit, the compressor does not run.

Once the defrost termination thermostat (a.k.a. defrost limit switch) senses a set temperature, it opens the circuit to the defrost heaters, shutting them off. The timer remains in the defrost cycle until the timer advances back to the cooling mode. Since the limit switch is open, the heaters are no longer on for the rest of the cycle.

Cooling Cycle

When the timer again advances back into the cooling mode, the compressor will start to run along with any air circulation fans. The defrost limit switch will remain in the open condition until it is reset by cold temperatures.

Shows defrost termination thermostat contacts closing and timer contacts to the heater circuit still openOnce a set colder temperature is reached, the defrost termination thermostat closes again. This is OK since the defrost timer is no longer supplying power to the defrost circuit, the heater does not get energized.

When the defrost timer again advances into the defrost mode, the limit thermostat will already be closed and will allow power to be supplied to the defrost heater to melt any frost that has developed on the evaporator coil again.
Fans

Fan(s) runningNormally the interior evaporator and exterior (if present) condenser fan motors should run whenever the compressor is running and vise versa. If the timer is stopping operation of the cooling system, neither the fans nor compressor should usually be running at that time.
Symptoms

The most common symptom of a defrost system failure is a complete and uniformly frosted (not iced) evaporator coil. Frost may also be visible on the panel covering the evaporator, usually in the rear of the freezer compartment.
Progression of evaporator frosting

Excessive frosting can be cause by the defrost heater or limit thermostat being open (ie. defective), a mechanical defrost timer sticking and never advancing into the defrost cycle or a problem in an electronic defrost control or one of its sensors failing to allow the defrost heaters to be energized.

Sometimes (but fairly rarely) both heater and cooling system can be energized by the timer at the same time. This can result in thawing then refreezing of food in the freezer compartment often leading to freezer burn on that food. In most cases the evaporator coil will remain mostly in an un-frosted state. The defrost heaters will cycle on and off as the defrost thermostat opens and closed due to the temperature it senses.

Refrigeration System Problems
Partially frosted evaporator coil

If the evaporator coil is only partially frosting or a ball of ice develops on just a small area of it (see illustration below), it is usually a sign of a refrigeration system problem in which case a trained refrigeration technician will be required to determine the cause and correct it. These conditions are not caused by a defrost system failure.

Defrost Component Locations
Top-freezer refrigerator with the evaporator cover panel removed exposing the evaporator (cooling) coil

On most frost free refrigerators, the evaporator (cooling) coil is inside the freezer compartment covered by a panel. The freezer fan motor is usually in the same general area.

The defrost heater is mounted onto or woven right into the evaporator coil in the freezer. The defrost termination limit switch is usually mounted on the side of the evaporator coil or on one of the connecting tubing.
Evaporator coil with defrost heater and defrost limit thermostat shown

The defrost timer can be in various places including behind the kickplate at the front of the cabinet, inside the fridge compartment possibly in a control panel along with the thermostat or on older models, at the back in the motor compartment by the compressor. Some strange Kenmore refrigerator models had the defrost timer built into the icemaker unit.
The Defrost Heater
Glass Tube Defrost Heater

The defrost heater is basically a wire filament enclosed in a quartz, glass, aluminum or other material, tube sheath which gets hot when powered. It will either have resistance (show continuity) and be good or will have infinite resistance (no continuity) and be defective. How much resistance it has is irrelevant as its resistance will not normally change except to being open (infinite resistance) when it fails.
The Defrost Termination Thermostat

The defrost termination thermostat (aka defrost limit switch) is basically a small SPST (single pole) electrical switch which is actuated by temperature. Depending on the temperature it is, it will either have no resistance (show continuity) and be good or will have infinite resistance (no continuity) and be defective. At room temperature it will usually be open (which is normal and not a sign of being defective) and only close when it gets cold. How cold it has to be to close will depend on its particular calibration but usually near or below freezing point.Some newer model refrigerators (Amana and Frigidaire in particular) and some older models (GE included) run power for the evaporator (freezer) fan motor through the defrost heater element and defrost limit switch. If either of those components should fail, remaining open, the fan will not run which will stop the circulation of cold air throughout the refrigerator.

On that design, the evaporator fan motor will not start running after a defrost cycle until the evaporator has had a chance to begin cooling again. While it is generally a good design idea so as not to blow the warm defrost air throughout the refrigerator, a failure in one part of the defrost system will usually render the whole refrigerator ineffective because of the lack of air flow.

Defrost Timers Types

Defrost TimerEarly production mechanical defrost timers would go into the defrost cycle after a set amount of time. Common timing periods were 6, 8, 12 and 24 hours. This meant that say every 6 hours, the refrigerator would go into defrost whether it needed it or not. The duration of time it would remain in the defrost cycle was fixed and could be anywhere from 18 to 30 minutes depending on the timer design but it would always be the same length of time.

As stated above, the defrost heaters may not be on for that full length of time, thanks to the defrost limit thermostat, but the cooling cycle would not start again until after the complete defrost duration was ended.

This original design was wasteful as the refrigerator would defrost regardless if it was necessary or not. A later design tried to help this a bit.

Cumulative Run Timers

The next design was called a 'cumulative run' timer. These timers were installed in a way were they would only count the time that the refrigerator (the compressor) was actually working. This makes sense since no frost could build up if the compressor was not running.

These later mechanical model timers would only advance the into defrost when the compressor had actually been running for a certain length of time, usually 6 to 8 hours of accumulated compressor operation.
Adaptive Defrost Control

ADC - Adaptive Defrost Control exampleThe latest, energy saving variation is electronically controlled and called an adaptive defrost control. Not only does the period between defrost cycles change but also the time duration of the defrost cycle itself. The device is programmed to keep track of the appliance usage and how long it takes for the evaporator coil to be thoroughly defrosted. It will then calculate the amount of time required and adjust itself accordingly.

GE's 'Mother Board'

Newer GE made refrigerators are almost totally electronically controlled. Their motherboard takes the place of both the temperature and defrost functions even controlling DC fan motors that can operate at several different speeds. On this system only the defrost heater is the same as described above. A defrost cycle is ended when a thermistor detects a temperature rise of the evaporator which is the signal to the main control to terminate the defrost and start the cooling. The termination thermostat on this appliance design only acts as a safety device to shut the heater(s) off in case of a malfunction before the plastic interior liner melts, otherwise it is never active. The control can not be manually put into defrost mode.

Timer Testing

Defrost Timer showing Advancing ScrewThe mechanical timer types described above will usually have a screw on their underside which can be turned clockwise to manually change its present cycle. If running, slowly turning it until it clicks once should put the timer into 'defrost mode'. When in the defrost mode, turning it until it clicks once should put the timer into 'run mode'. It can be left in the defrost mode to see if it will advance by itself to the run mode (like it should in less than 30 minutes) or the defrost heaters may be able to be tested to see it they are receiving power or not at that time.

NOTE: Once the compressor has been turned off, it should be allowed to sit for several minutes (5-10 minimum) before attempting to restart it. This is required to allow the internal refrigerant pressures to equalize so the compressor is able to restart again without putting excessive strain on it.

Test points and how to manually switch adaptive defrost controls into the different cycles vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. For these, check the appliance's mini-manual for instructions which is most often located behind the kickplate at the bottom front of the refrigerator but may also be inside the actual control panel with the defrost control. 

DIAGNOSIS to Fix the Generic problem for all Refrigerators

if symptoms of damage such as: fridge not cold, no noise from the compressor, how to analysis and improvement:

1. Check the incoming voltage to the compressor, make sure there is voltage coming into the compressor, a simple way to hold the engine compressor. if there are hot that means the voltage has been entered. the part that does not work is the compressor. you should replace it and fill freon. you must have special equipment to be replaced, such as welding equipment, analyzer to check freon pressure and pressure compressor. and many more tools that should be necessary.
2. Thermostat how to replace it: simply replace the existing thermostat in the freezer space, there is a screw that must be opened, open by pulling the cover and then remove from the holder thermostat. replaced in accordance with the size and spec. there are only two wires are connected there, no matter if inverted in installing.
3. Timer: Timer can be damaged, causing the compressor does not work, the indication: there is no noise from the compressor. timer location near the compressor (in box) or in room fridge, usually near the refrigerator light. first try to turn the timer until the refrigerator running. if it still does not work just replace the timer.

4. check the fuse and the thermo bimetal (thermo switch) and the heater as a function of defrost in the refrigerator. these parts have anything to do with the function "timer", if one is not functioning will cause the refrigerator does not work normally even the refrigerator is not cold.


One cause of icing up and over freezing in a fridge or freezer can be a poorly fitting or damaged door seal. If the door seal becomes distorted the seal will start to allow warm moist air into the freezer or fridge. This will cause snowy ice to deposit around the point of entry which will eventually cause the compartment to completely ice up.

If the door seal is worn, then clearly it needs replacing but sometimes it’s just a matter of re-shaping the door seal with the aid of either a hair dryer or a warm cloth. Carefully heat the seal and try to form it back into the right shape closing the door and letting the seal cool before opening the door again.
Another possible cause of frost in fridge or freezer

If the fridge or freezer is not level, the cabinet may become twisted, this causes the door to not fit properly and the seal to not seal properly. This can allow gaps which again allows warm moist air to be drawn into the appliance. If affected make sure the appliance is properly level by adjusting the feet or if necessary by placing some packaging under the feet. You can always try the paper test, which is to place a piece of paper between the seal and the frame and see if it will hold, if it doesn’t the seal will be letting warm air into the unit.

Note: Many modern fridges and freezers do not have replaceable door seals. Only complete new doors. This is disgraceful but just another symptom of manufacturers making appliances less repairable in the race to make finished goods cheaper.

On the subject of door seals it is not advisable to open any fridge or freezer door by curling your finger’s around the frame as this can result in the seal splitting. Always use the handle, and don’t forget if you do reshape a door seal always fully defrost the unit afterwards. Another point to remember is that if the door seal has split on the face that touches the frame it needs to be changed. If it is split on the outer side crease it is only cosmetically unsightly. 

REFRIGERATOR DEFROST CYCLE DIAGNOSIS

• 1) Unplug the refrigerator.
• 2) With the freezer frozen down, (it must have been running at least a couple of hours to give the contacts in the defrost thermostat a chance to get cold and close) remove the evaporator cover (the cover in the freezer that covers the cooling coil)
• 3) Plug the refrigerator in.
• 4) Locate the defrost timer and, with a screw driver, turn the timer to the defrost mode. ( There is a slot on the timer that the screwdriver will fit in. Turn it clockwise. The refrigerator will stop running when it goes into the defrost mode.)
• 5) Wait about 5 minutes, then see if the defrost heater is heating. It will get VERY HOT, so be careful! If it is heating, the defrost heater and defrost thermostat are good. The timer should be replaced.
• 6) If the heater is not heating, then the timer is probably good. (While this is not true ALL of the time, in my 15 years in this business I have seen this NOT true only twice. You could still have a bad timer, but is is unlikely)
• 7) UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!
• 8) Use a hair dryer to defrost the evaporator (cooling) coil.
• 9) Visually inspect the defrost heater. Check for a broken or burned area on the heater. Replace the heater if you find this.
• 10) If you do not have a multi-meter, skip to 13. If you have a multi-meter, check the resistance of the heater by disconnecting the wires from both end of the heater and, with the meter set to "OHMS", put one meter lead on each end of the heater.
• 11) If you get no resistance reading, replace the heater.
• 12) If you get a resistance reading, replace the defrost thermostat. (See 6 above.)
• 13) If you do not have a mulit-meter, make sure the refrigerator is unplugged, then locate the defrost thermostat. It is a round, quarter sized part with two wires coming out if it. It usually mounts directly to the evaporator coil.
• 14) Make a note of how each wire is attached to the thermostat.
• 15) Remove all wires from the thermostat.
• 16) Using a wire nut (you probably removed two of them to remove the wires) connect ALL of the wires that WERE attached to the thermostat together. (NOT THE WIRES THAT ARE MADE ONTO THE THERMOSTAT, BUT THE WIRES THAT WERE ATTACHED TO THE THERMOSTAT)
• 17) Plug the refrigerator back in. Make sure the timer is still in the defrost mode.
• 18) Wait a couple of minutes, then check to see if the heater is heating. It will get VERY HOT, so be careful.
• 19) If the heater is heating, replace the thermostat.
• 20) If the heater is not heating, replace the heater. (See 6 above)

Admiral / Maytag / Norge / Magic Chef / Montgomery Wards  Top Mount
	Sample Admiral / Maytag / Norge / Magic Chef / Montgomery Wards  Top Mount
Note: Heaters are wired in series. They can be ohmed out from the small brown junction board They either have continuity or they do not. They are either good  or bad. Note : Some defrost timers on These models in front as shown and some are on the back right or left lower rear corner.	Sample Montgomery Wards / Admiral / Norge / Magic Chef Side by Side Freezer Section
Frigidaire
Sample Frigidare with coil under freezer floor	Sample Frigidaire with coil on back wall
Whirlpool
Sample Whirlpool Ref Top Mount
Sample Whirlpool Ref Side by Side	Newer Side by Sides

SAMSUNG REFRIGERATOR ERROR FAULT CODES – HOW TO RESET

Is your Samsung refrigerator displaying an error code? Newer style Samsung refrigerators have built in diagnostic systems. If your refrigerator finds, sees, or detects a fault or error in the system, it will show an error or fault code. The error code will display where the usual numbers are on the display screen. When an error code is displayed, your refrigerator is telling you a specific fault. If the error or fault is not fixable by you, it will require a repair technician. There are many different model numbers of Samsung refrigerators with digital displays so if you see an error code write down what is flashing or displaying. Don’t pull the power from the fridge if it shows an error code. If you pull the power plug it will erase the fault code.




NOTE: If the icons on the display flash after you plug it in, don’t worry, your Samsung refrigerator is simply going through a self check!
Refrigerator Display is Flashing Temperature:
If the temp in the fridge gets above the warmest temperature available that is set, the display blinks and a chiming noise will sound. When this happens make sure the fridge is not in cool off mode and the door hasn’t been left open for long periods of time. When the temp goes back down to normal, the flashing and sound will stop.If the fridge stays in cool off mode: If your Samsung refrigerator is not cooling, it COULD be because it is in Demo Mode. This mode is also called Exhibition Mode, Cooling Off Mode, or Showroom Mode. This is a mode built into the Samsung refrigerator to display them in a showroom so the lights work but THE COMPRESSOR DOES NOT therefore the fridge will not cool. You may have purchased a “showroom model” Samsung refrigerator or you may have inadvertently put the fridge into this mode yourself. Either way see below for HOW TO GET THE FRIDGE OUT OF DEMO MODE.NOTE: There is no information about Demo or Cooling off mode in you owner’s manual since this mode is not for consumers. Some Samsung model refrigerators have a label attached on the display therefore you would have an understanding of what Demo mode is. If demo or cooling off mode is activated and the label is missing, you will not understand why the refrigerator will not cool.

What happens when in demo mode:
1 – When door is open, internal Lights are on but the refrigerator is not cooling.
2 – The refrigerator showroom store sets the refrigerator to Demo mode to save power consumption.
3 – The consumer will not know about cooling or demo mode and will notice that the fridge will not cool.
If your refrigerator is not cooling, it may be in Demo Mode. Demo mode is a feature used by retailers to display the refrigerator without running the compressor. To see if your refrigerator is in Demo Mode: Type A models display “OF FF” if the refrigerator is in demo mode. Type B models have the icon on the display illuminated if the refrigerator is in demo mode. Type C models display setting temperature if the refrigerator is in demo mode.

How To Remove Your Refrigerator from Demo Mode:
If your refrigerator is in Demo mode, press the two buttons together as shown in the images below in the red boxes for 3 seconds to resume normal operation.

Samsung refrigerator display panels – demo mode – what to press to deactivate
For the rest of the Samsung refrigerator models, Please find the information tables below…

 

Samsung Refrigerator US & Other Countries – How To Get Out Of DEMO MODE

If the above charts do not fix your issue, unplug & plug back in power for a reset.

1. If you bought display model, make sure if it is on display mode when initial power on.
2. During Demo or Exhibition mode… If both compartment sensors detect the room temperature higher than 65ºC, it will cancel the exhibition mode automatically and return to freezing operation. There is no buzzer sound 
by the temperature when cancel the exhibition mode.

How to disable Cooling Off Mode For Samsung Family Hub Refrigerator


 If your Samsung fridge displays O FF or OF OF, this means it has entered the cool off or demo mode.

Samsung Refrigerator 1E, SE, or 5E Error Reset

NOTE: During a power outage your Samsung French Door refrigerator
may experience a display failure indicating 1 E, 1E, 5 E, 5E, SE, or IE
on the front display. Simply hold the POWER SAVE and LIGHTING
buttons (or FRIDGE and FREEZER) simultaneously for
about 5 to 6 seconds and the panel will reset automatically.
 
  

Samsung Refrigerator Error? – Press both buttons same time to reset for 8 seconds!
If you remove any Electronic Components:
If you remove the ice maker or change a lightbulb, the display will show an error code. If this happens, unplug the refrigerator and install the new part. Plug the refrigerator back in and the fault code will clear itself.

 

Other error codes for a Samsung Refrigerator:

Display Panel Is Showing PC-ER:
If the display panel shows PC-ER, make sure the wire harness under the top left door hinge is properly connected. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the top left hinge cover. Unhook the wire harness and reconnect it. Plug the fridge back in and if the fault code goes away then the issue is fixed. See illustrations below…

  

PC ER ERROR CODE – SAMSUNG REFRIGERATOR
Display is 88 88 And Will Not Respond:
To fix this error code, unplug the refrigerator for 1 minute and then plug back in to clear the fault code.
Error Code 1 E:
Freezer Sensor error.
Error Code 2 E:
Freezer Sensor error.
Error Code 4 E:
Freezer Defrost Sensor error.
Error Code 5 E:
Fridge Defrost Sensor error.

Error Code 6 E:
Ambient Sensor error.
Error Code 8 E or 39 E:
Ice Maker Sensor error.
Error Code 21 E:
Freezer Fan error.
Error Code 22 E:
Fridge Fan error.
Error Code 23 E:
Condenser Fan error.
Error Code 24 E:
Freezer Defrost error.
Error Code 25 E:
Fridge Defrost error.
Error Code 26 E or 39 E:
Ice Maker Function error.
Error Code 83E, 85E, or 86E Error Codes:
These error codes are related to voltage and current reception at the PBA Inverter. 83E specifically is caused by abnormal current caused by things like a power outage. This error is temporary and can be fixed by unplugging the unit for 1 minute and then plugging it back in.


 

Samsung refrigerator error codes 1 through 13
See below for description of part that may be causing error code

Samsung Blinking Dash Line Error Code List

1 – Ice Maker Sensor – Ice Maker sensor connector missing
2 – Refrigerator Sensor – Refrigerator sensor connector missing
3 – Refrigerator Defrost Sensor – Refrigerator evaporator internal defrosting sensor connector missing
4 – Refrigerator Fan Error – Refrigerator Fan motor operation failure
5 – Ice Maker Function Error – Ice-ejector and level failed three times or more
6 – CoolSelect Zone Sensor – CoolSelect ZoneTM sensor connector missing
7 – Refrigerator Defrost Error – In the refrigerator room, if frost removal mode is finished due to limited time of 80 minutes error is displayed
8 – Exit Sensor – Air sensor connector missing
9 – Freezer Sensor – Freezer sensor connector missing
10 – Freezer Defrost Error – Freezer evaporator defrosting sensor connector missing
11 – Freezer Fan Error – Freezer Fan motor operation failure
12 – Condenser Fan Error – Condenser Fan motor operation failure
13 – Freezer Defrost Error – In the freezer room, if frost removal mode is finished due to limited time of 70 minutes error is displayed
IMPORTANT NOTE: Any codes not listed above should be assumed your refrigerator is in DIAGNOSTIC MODE, DEMO MODE, or LOAD MODE. These modes tell you or the repair person what is functioning properly on your fridge and what is not. Many people get into one of these modes by accident and cannot get out. To disable any of these modes, you can simply unplug your Samsung refrigerator for 30 seconds to 1 minute to clear. See below for the code numbers that may appear on your Samsung refrigerator display panel when in diagnostic, demo, or load mode.

Samsung fridge load mode – Used to check current status of all operational components.

 

Samsung Refrigerator How to enter into LOAD MODE
Do the same thing as shown above to stop LOAD MODE or unplug fridge.

 

 Samsung refrigerator load mode chart
Tells you current operational status relating to the parts in your fridge.

 

 Samsung Refrigerator Load Mode Check List (TEXT LIST)
(image above is the display for the LOAD MODE CODES below)

Display LED = R-1
Location = a Fresh Food Fan High speed

Display LED = R-1
Location = b Fresh Food Fan Low speed

Display LED = R-1
Location = c Fresh Food Defrost Heater

Display LED = R-1
Location = d When 1st plugged in

Display LED = R-1
Location = e High Temp Condition Ambient Over 93F degrees

Display LED = R-1
Location = f Low Temp condition Ambient Under 72F degrees

Display LED = R-1
Location = e – f Normal condition Ambient ( Between 73F – 91F)

Display LED = R-1
Location = g Demo Mode

Display LED = F-1
Location = a Compressor On

Display LED = F-1
Location = b Freezer Fan on high

Display LED = F-1
Location = c Freezer Fan on low

Display LED = F-1
Location = d Freezer Defrost Heater on

Display LED = F-1
Location = e Compressor Fan on high

Display LED = F-1
Location = f Compressor Fan on Low

Display LED = F-1
Location = g When the Sparkling water to dispenser valve operates

Display LED = R-10
Location = a Damper Open

Display LED = R-10
Location = c Ice Maker heater operates

Display LED = R-10
Location = d Full Ice

Display LED = R-10
Location = e (Sensor detects) Sparkling Water tank full

Display LED = R-10
Location = f (Sensor detects) Sparkling Water tank low

Display LED = R-10
Location = e – f (Sensor detects) Sparkling water tank empty

Display LED = F-10
Location = c Sparkling Water Dispenser valve operates

Display LED = F-10
Location = d Ice Room Fan – High Speed

Display LED = F-10
Location = e Ice Room Fan – Low Speed

Display LED = F-10
Location = f Water to Dispenser valve operates – Sparkling only

Display LED = F-10
Location = g French Heater Operates

 

 Samsung Refrigerator Model Number Identification Chart
HOW OLD IS MY REFRIGERATOR?
WHICH COMPANY BUILT MY REFRIGERATOR?
WHAT MONTH AND YEAR WAS MY REFRIGERATOR MADE?
Find out Appliance Type, What country it was made in, What year, and What month.

SAMSUNG REFRIGERATOR FLASHING – BLINKING – FAULTS – RESET

SAMSUNG REFRIGERATOR FLASHING – BLINKING – FAULTS – RESET:

Samsung refrigerators have self diagnostic error recognition systems built in. If your Samsung fridge detects a power outage, starts flashing the display icons, begins blinking, or shows a fault code message on the display, it is identifying a problem within the system. These codes and messages will display where the temperature usually is shown instead of showing the fridge and freezer temperature. This Samsung refrigerator error code page is for the following error codes: 88 88, 83E, 85E, or 86E. All Display Icons are FLASHING. Power Outage. The Error PC Er. The Error OF OF. The Error 1E, SE, or 5E. Door Alarm.


Samsung Refrigerator Error Codes 88 88, 83E, 85E, or 86E
If your Samsung refrigerator displays error codes 88 88, 83E, 85E, or 86E. Simply unplug or flip the circuit breaker to remove power from the refrigerator for 1 to 5 minutes. Supply power back to the refrigerator after 5 minutes and this will reset the refrigerator and the error codes will clear. (FYI: These error codes mean problems with the PBA inverter)
Samsung Refrigerator Error Code PC Er
This error code is telling you of a communication problem with the door and the main control unit. The wire harness under the top left door is not connected properly or needs to be reset. You will need to remove power to the fridge and check the wire harness above the door. Simply disconnect and then reconnect the wire harness. Then plug the fridge back in and the error code will clear.
 

To clear the PC ER error on Samsung refrigerator Unplug and then reconnect the wire harness in top left door

Samsung Refrigerator Error Codes OF OF or O FF
When your Samsung refrigerator shows OF OF or O FF it is in the Cooling Off or Demo Mode.



Samsung Refrigerator OF OF modeHow to Get Samsung frige Out of OFF Demo Mode?



Samsung Refrigerator Has Flashing Temperature
The temperature on your Samsung refrigerator will flash or blink if the temp inside the fridge goes over 59°F. When the temperature rises above 59°F the display is warning you of the temperature rise and will blink and a bell sound will be heard. Change the temperature to a lower setting and the flashing display panel will stop when the refrigerator cools below 59°F. NOTE: This may happen if the door is left open for too long.
Samsung Refrigerator Error Codes and Display Messages that mean the fridge is running a self test mode…
If all the icons on the refrigerator display panel start flashing after the fridge is plugged into power… The flashing is completely normal as the Samsung refrigerator is running a SELF DIAGNOSTIC TEST and will stop flashing when the test is complete.
Refrigerator Components Have Been Taken Out and an Error Code is Shown
When you remove an electrical or electronic component or part from the fridge, (ice maker, fan, switch, damper) within an allotted amount of time an error code will appear. To clear the error code simply unplug the refrigerator and install the part that you removed. Plug power back in and the error code will be clear.
Samsung Refrigerator Error Codes 1E SE = POWER OUTAGE
A power outage will make your Samsung fridge show the errors 1E and or SE. If this is the case, simply press the power save and lighting buttons for 10 seconds and the error will clear. OR… press the fridge and freezer buttons at the same time for 10 seconds to reset the control panel and clear the error code.

How to clear error and reset the display for Samsung refrigerators
PRESS AND HOLD POWER FREEZE AND POWER COOL FOR 10 SECONDS.

SAMSUNG REFRIGERATOR RANDOMLY BEEPING – WHAT CAUSES ALARM BEEPS?

Samsung Refrigerator Beeps? Alarm constantly beeps on Samsung refrigerator. The refrigerator beeps at all times when no one is near the refrigerator. The beeping/chiming occurs randomly and coming from the dispenser area. Refrigerator has an audible alarm when setting the Flex Zone Drawer. What can cause the alarm to go off on a Samsung refrigerator? Samsung Support Here…




The Samsung refrigerator alarms are the “Door Alarm” and the “High Temperature Alert Alarm”. (If the refrigerator will not stop beeping randomly, press the ALARM BUTTON to OFF or NOT ILLUMINATED until you can troubleshoot the issue)

Samsung Fridge Beeps Quick Fix

DOOR ALERT ALARM
-The “Door Alarm” beeps when the door is not completely closed or left open for approx 3 minutes.
THE DOOR ALARM STOPS BEEPING WHEN THE DOOR IS CLOSED – CLOSE DOOR
HIGH TEMPERATURE ALERT ALARM
-The “High Temperature Alert Alarm” beeps and the temperature display blinks when the refrigerator senses a high temperature rise.
THE HIGH TEMP ALARM CEASES TO BEEP WHEN THE TEMP IS COOLED TO NORMAL – SET TEMP LOWER.


Press ALARM BUTTON to OFF or NOT ILLUMINATED until you fix the issue…

Samsung Refrigerator Beeps Alarm Check

The temperature display is blinking?
It is too warm in the refrigerator and the fridge will beep indicating high temperature.
LOWER TEMPERATURE or CHECK THAT FRIDGE IS COOLING PROPERLY
The alarm button is illuminated?
The refrigerator doors are detected to be open.
TURN ALARM BUTTON OFF TO SEE IF THE BEEPING STOPS.

Samsung Refrigerator Beeps Troubleshooting

1. Open the fridge doors to inspect inside and confirm nothing is blocking them from completely closing.
2. If the temperature display blinks but the fridge doors were not left open there could be a cooling problem.

3. Check that the wiring was installed properly on the top of the refrigerator door if this issue has occurred since install. 

4. Make sure the alarm sound is coming from the refrigerator and not another item in your kitchen.

To Be Sure Beeping Comes From Samsung Refrigerator And Not Another Appliance

1. Press the buttons on the display panel to see if the beeping sounds different to be sure beep is not coming from elsewhere.
2. Leave the refrigerator door open for 3 minutes to hear if the alarm you hear is the same as the fridge alarm.
3. Remove power to the refrigerator to see if the beeping continues when the refrigerator is powered off.

What To Check If Samsung Refrigerator Continually Beeps

1. Beeping occurs at random times without even touching the refrigerator. Unplug or remove power to the Samsung refrigerator to attempt to reset the beeping problem.

2. Was the door removed when you received the fridge? The wire harness on top of the door is partially connected and this can cause the random beeping. Find the wire harness on top of the door and check to be sure it is fully connected and no damage is found.

3. The ice maker display switches from water to crushed ice to cubed ice and therefore beeps. Try resetting the ice maker to reset this issue.

4. The display panel indicates temperature and cycles thru the ice settings. Check this by inspecting the wire harness for partial connection on the display control board.

5. The REED SWITCH (on some models) can become faulty and cause an OPEN DOOR ERROR and might BEEP, replace REED SWITCH if found faulty.

6. The flex drawer causes the beeps as it changes temperatures. -Reset drawer by flipping the switch from OFF to ON. You should now be able to change the temperature and stop the beeping. -Remove the plastic film from the temperature control panel on the drawer, as this has shown to fix the issue. -Try resetting the connector that connects the wires to the flex door face. (SEE IMAGES BELOW)

Samsung Flex zone Drawer Control Panel

 Samsung Flex zone Drawer Back Panel View


 



 

Other Issues With Samsung Refrigerators

FOR MODEL NUMBERS: RF28HMEDBSR, RF28HFEDBSR, RF30KMEDBSR, RF31FMEDBSR, and more.
1. The flex zone drawer changes temperatures on its own and then beeps. 2. Flex zone control panel is unresponsive and randomly beeps. 3. The control panel illuminates and changes from water to crushed ice to cubed ice on its own. 4. When dispensing water the refrigerator switches to ice by itself. 5. Once the compressor spins down, it beeps and then switches from cubed to crushed ice.

If you have observed any of the problems above and found a resolution for the control panel chiming once or twice then changes from water to ice, the flex zone drawer changing the temperature on its own, flex zone drawer temperature panel not responsive, or the display panel switches to ice after dispensing water.

REFRIGERATOR COMMON FAULTS AND SOLUTIONS

Refrigerator common faults and solution

Not Cooling

1. Condenser Coils are Dirty

The condenser coils are usually located under the refrigerator. They dissipate heat as refrigerant passes through them. If the condenser coils are dirty, they won’t dissipate the heat effectively. As debris builds up on the coils, the refrigerator becomes less efficient, causing the refrigerator to work harder to cool down. If the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will not be able to maintain the proper temperature. Check the condenser coils to determine if they are dirty,if the condenser coils are dirty, clean them.

2. Evaporator Fan Motor

The evaporator fan motor draws air over the evaporator (cooling) coils and circulates it throughout the refrigerator and freezer compartments. Some refrigerators have more than one evaporator fan motor. On refrigerators with only one evaporator, the evaporator is located in the freezer compartment. If the evaporator fan is not working, it will not circulate the cold air to the refrigerator compartment. If this occurs, the freezer may still get cold, while the refrigerator will not get cold. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is  noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor winding for continuity. If the winding do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor.

3. Condenser Fan Motor

The condenser fan motor draws air though the condenser coils and over the compressor. If the condenser fan motor is not working properly, the refrigerator won’t cool properly. To determine if the fan motor is defective, first check the fan blade for obstructions. Next, try turning the fan motor blade by hand. If the blade does not spin freely, replace the condenser fan motor. If no obstructions are present and the fan blade spins freely, use a multimeter to test the fan motor for continuity. If the condenser fan motor does not have continuity, replace it.

4. Start Relay

The start relay works in conjunction with the start winding to start the compressor. If the start relay is defective, the compressor may sometimes fail to run or may not run at all. As a result, the refrigerator will not be cold enough. To determine if the start relay is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity between the run and start terminal sockets. If the start relay does not have continuity between the run and start terminal sockets, replace it. In addition, if the start relay has a burnt, replace it too.

5. Temperature Control Thermostat

The temperature control thermostat directs voltage to the compressor, evaporator fan motor, and condenser fan motor (if applicable). If the temperature control thermostat is not working properly, it may prevent the refrigerant system from running. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a click. If the thermostat clicks, it is not likely defective. If the thermostat does not click, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control thermostat does not have continuity at any setting, replace it.

6. Start Capacitor

The start capacitor provides a boost of power to the compressor during start-up. If the start capacitor isn’t working, the compressor may not start. As a result, the refrigerator will not cool. To determine if the start capacitor is defective, test it with an LCR multimeter. If the start capacitor is defective, replace it.

7.Thermistor

The thermistor monitors the refrigerator temperature and sends the temperature reading to the control board. The control board regulates power to the compressor and evaporator fan based on the thermistor readings. If the thermistor is defective, the compressor and evaporator fan may not run when necessary. As a result, the refrigerator will not be cold enough. To determine if the thermistor is defective, test it with a multimeter. The thermistor resistance should change in conjunction with the refrigerator temperature. If the thermistor resistance does not change, or the thermistor does not have continuity, replace the thermistor.

8. Temperature Control Board

The temperature control board provides voltage to the compressor and fan motors. If the temperature control board is defective, it will stop sending voltage to the cooling system. However, this is not a common occurrence. Control boards are often misdiagnosed, before replacing the control board, first test all of the more commonly defective components. If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the temperature control board.

9. Compressor

The compressor is a motor which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. If the compressor is not working, the refrigerator won’t cool. However, this isn’t usually the case. Before replacing the compressor, first check for defective components. If all of the other components are working properly, use a multimeter to test the compressor winding for continuity. If the compressor winding does not have continuity, replace it.

10. Main Control Board

The main control board might be defective. However, this is almost never the cause. Before replacing the main control board, test for defective parts. If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.

Water Dispenser Not Working

1. Water Tube in Door is Frozen

To determine if the water supply tube is frozen, disconnect the tube at the bottom of the door and blow air through it. If air does not pass through, this indicates that the water supply tube is frozen. If the water supply tube is frozen, thaw it out. In addition, ensure that the freezer is kept at the proper temperature. The freezer temperature should be kept from 0-10 degrees Fahrenheit. If the freezer is too cold, the water line may freeze.

2. Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve opens to supply water to the dispenser. If the water inlet valve is defective, or if the water pressure is too low, the water valve will not open. The valve requires at least 20psi to function properly. Make sure that the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, use a multimeter to test the water inlet valve for continuity. If the water inlet valve does not have continuity, replace it.

3. Low Water Pressure from House Supply

The home may have insufficient water pressure. The water inlet valve supplies water to the water dispenser. The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to function properly. Check the water flow and test the pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi.

Ice Maker Not Working

1. Freezer Temperature is Above 10 Degrees F (-12 Degree C)

If the freezer temperature is above 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12C), the ice maker will not produce ice cubes efficiently. The freezer temperature should be set between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -15 Degree C) for the ice maker to work properly. If the freezer temperature is too high, ensure that the condenser coils are clear of debris and the condenser fan is working properly. In addition, check to see if frost has accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, part of the defrost system has likely failed.

2. Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve is an electrically-controlled valve that opens to supply water to the dispenser and ice maker. If the water inlet valve is defective, or if it has insufficient pressure, it won’t allow water to flow through. As a result, the ice maker won’t make ice. The valve requires at least 20 psi to function properly. Make sure that the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, use a multimeter to check for power to the water inlet valve. If the water inlet valve has sufficient pressure and is getting power, but the ice maker won’t fill with water to make ice, replace the water inlet valve.

3. Ice Maker Assembly

Since many of the ice maker components are not sold separately, you may need to purchase and replace the entire ice maker assembly. Before replacing the ice maker assembly, check the water inlet valve, water line, and fan. If none of these parts are faulty, and the freezer temperature is not at least 15 degrees Fahrenheit, replace the ice maker assembly.

Ice Dispenser Not Working

1. Dispenser Control Board

The dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system. If the control board is faulty, it may stop supplying power to the entire dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. May be single part has failed. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is more likely to be at faulty.

2. Dispenser Switch

The dispenser switches send voltage to the dispenser. If one of the dispenser switches is defective, the dispenser will not work. To determine if a dispenser switch is defective, use a multimeter to test each switch for continuity. If a dispenser switch does not have continuity, replace it.

3. Dispenser Actuator

The dispenser actuator interacts with the dispenser switches, which power the auger motor and other dispenser components. If the dispenser actuator is broken, it may not activate the switches properly or at all. Inspect the dispenser actuator, if it is broken replace it.

Not Defrosting

1. Defrost Control Board

The defrost control board determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the board fails, the refrigerator will not go into the defrost cycle. Before replacing the defrost control board, first test the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. If the defrost heater and defrost thermostat are working properly, the defrost control board is likely defective.

2. Defrost Timer

The defrost timer turns on the defrost heater several times throughout the day to melt any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost timer is defective, it may not advance into the defrost cycle, or it may not send power to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. To determine if the defrost timer is defective, slowly advance the dial into the defrost cycle. The compressor should turn off and the heater should turn on. If the timer does not send power to the defrost components or advance out of the defrost cycle within 30 minutes, this indicates that the defrost timer is not working. If the defrost timer is not working, then replace it.

3. Defrost Heater Assembly

The defrost heater assembly turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, the defrost system will not work, and frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. To determine if the defrost heater is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, then replace it.

Noisy

1. Fan Blade

If the refrigerator is noisy or loud, especially when the door is opened, either the evaporator or condenser fan blade may be at fault. First, turn the evaporator fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, check to see if the blade is rubbing against something or if something is caught in the blade. Additionally, check the condenser fan blade to determine if it has any obstructions.

2. Evaporator Fan Motor

When the evaporator fan motor fails, it often generates a lot of noise. This noise will be much louder when the refrigerator door is opened. If the evaporator fan is noisy,then replace it.

3. Condenser Fan Motor

There might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor bearings might be defective. The condenser fan motor is usually located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.

Freezer is Cold But Refrigerator is Warm

1. The Evaporator Coils are Frosted Over

The defrost heater assembly turns on a few times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils, and the coils will become plugged with frost. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, the airflow through the coils will be restricted, causing the refrigerator not to cool. Check the evaporator coils to determine if they are frosted over. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, test each component of the defrost system.

2. Evaporator Fan Motor

The evaporator fan motor draws cold air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer. If the evaporator fan is not working, the freezer or refrigerator will not cool adequately. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor winding for continuity. If the winding do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor.

3. Damper Control Assembly

The air damper control opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper does not open properly, it won’t let enough cold air into the refrigerator. Check the damper control to determine if it is broken or closed.

Defrost Drain Freeze

1. Freezing Defrost Drain

The defrost drain might be clogged or frozen. If the defrost drain is frozen, the water will overflow trough drain  and drip down to the bottom of the compartment. If the defrost drain is frozen, thaw it out and ensure that the drain is clear of debris.

2. Drain Strap

Some defrost drains are outfitted with a drain strap. The drain strap is a small piece of copper or aluminum that attaches to the defrost heater and extends partway into the defrost drain. When the defrost heater turns on, heat is conducted through the drain strap to melt away any ice that may have accumulated further down in the defrost drain. If the drain strap is not in place, the defrost drain may be more likely to freeze over.

3. Drain Heater

Some refrigerators are equipped with drain heaters. Drain heaters prevent the water in the drain pan from re-freezing and clogging the defrost drain. If your drain heater is defective or is not in the proper position, the defrost drain might freeze over.

Water leakage 

1. Freezing Defrost Drain

If the defrost drain is frozen, the water will overflow the drain trough and drip down to the bottom of the compartment. This water can eventually leak onto the floor. Check the defrost drain to determine if it is clogged or frozen. If the defrost drain is frozen, thaw the ice. In addition, flush the drain with hot water to ensure that it is clear of debris.

2. Water Tank Assembly

Inspect the water tank assembly for any leaks. Be aware that the leak may be very small and hard to find. If you discover a leak, replace the water tank. Do not attempt to repair the water tank, glue will not stick properly to the plastic protion of the tank.

3. Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve opens to, supply water to the dispenser and icemaker. If the water inlet valve is cracked or has a loose fitting, water will leak from the valve. Inspect the water inlet valve for cracks, and make sure that it is tightly secured to the water supply line.

Freezing Food

1. Temperature Control Thermostat

The temperature control thermostat directs voltage to the compressor, evaporator fan motor, and condenser fan motor (if applicable). If the temperature control thermostat is not working properly, it may cause the refrigerant system to run longer than necessary. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cold. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a click. If the thermostat clicks, it is not likely defective. If the thermostat does not click, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control thermostat does not have continuity at any setting, replace it.

2. Thermistor

The thermistor monitors the air temperature and sends the temperature reading to the control board. The control board then regulates power to the compressor and evaporator fan based on the thermistor readings. If the thermistor is defective, the compressor and evaporator fan may run too frequently. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cool. To determine if the thermistor is defective, test it with a multimeter. The thermistor resistance should change in conjunction with the refrigerator temperature. If the thermistor resistance does not change, or the thermistor does not have continuity, replace the thermistor.

3. Temperature Control Board

The temperature control board provides voltage to the compressor and fan motors. If the control board is faulty, it may send continuous voltage to the compressor or fan motors. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cool. Control boards are often misdiagnosed, before replacing the control board, first test for other defective components. If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the temperature control board.

Ice And Water Dispenser Not Working

1. Dispenser Control Board

The dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, it is probable that an individual part has failed. In this case, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is more likely to be at 

2. Dispenser Switch

The dispenser switches send voltage to the dispenser. If one of the dispenser switch is defective, the dispenser will not work. To determine if a dispenser switch is defective, use a multimeter to test each switch for continuity. If a dispenser switch does not have continuity, replace it.

3. Door Switch

The door switch turns off the ice and water dispenser when the refrigerator door is open. If the door switch fails, the dispenser will not turn on. To determine if the door switch is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the door switch does not have continuity when activated, replace it.

Ice Maker Overflowing

1. Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to shut off properly. If the water pressure is too low, the valve may not close fully once the power is shut off. As a result, the valve will leak water into the ice maker and cause the ice maker to overflow. Check the water pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, the water inlet valve is likely defective. The valve may not shut off all the way or may be stuck open, causing water to leak through the valve. If the water pressure is sufficient, but the ice maker is still overflowing, replace the water inlet valve.

2. Low Water Pressure from House Supply

The water inlet valve supplies water to the refrigerator ice and water dispenser. The valve requires a minimum of 20psi to work properly. If the water pressure is too low, the valve may not close fully when the power is shut off. As a result, the valve leaks water into the ice maker, causing it to overflow. Check the water flow and test the pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi.

3. Ice Maker Assembly

Since many of the ice maker components are not sold separately, you may need to purchase and replace the entire ice maker assembly.

Light Not Working

1. Light Assembly

The light assembly might be defective. Some manufacturers don’t sell the bulb separately, and instead require you to purchase the light assembly.

2. Light Switch

To determine if the light switch is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the light switch does not have continuity, replace it.

3. Door Switch

To determine if the door switch is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the door switch does not have continuity when activated, replace it.

4. Light Socket

To determine if the light socket is defective, use a multimeter to determine if the socket is getting power. If the socket is getting power, but the bulb won’t work, this indicates that the light socket is defective. If the light socket is defective, replace it.

5. Light Board

First, ensure that the light board is receiving the proper amount of voltage. If the light board is receiving sufficient voltage, but the refrigerator light will not work, replace the light board.

Runs Constantly

1. Condenser Coils are Dirty

The condenser coils are usually located under the refrigerator. They dissipate heat from the refrigerator as refrigerant passes through them. If debris accumulates on the coils, the refrigerator will have to work harder to remove the heat. If the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will run constantly in an effort to cool down. Your refrigerator’s condenser coils should be cleaned twice a year.

2. Freezer Temperature is Above 10 Degrees F (-12C)

If the freezer temperature is above 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12 Degree C), the refrigerator will not be cold enough. If the refrigerator is not cold enough, it will work harder to cold down. As a result, it will run constantly. The freezer temperature should be set between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -15 Degree C). If the freezer temperature is too high, ensure that the condenser coils are clear of debris and the condenser fan is working properly. In addition, check to see if frost has accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, part of the defrost system has likely failed.

3. Defrost Heater Assembly

The defrost heater assembly turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, the refrigerator will not defrost, and frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, the refrigerator will work harder to remove the heat. As a result, the refrigerator will run constantly in an effort to cool down. To determine if the defrost heater is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, replace it.

4. Defrost Thermostat

If the refrigerator runs constantly, the defrost thermostat might be defective. Several times a day the defrost heater turns on for a few minutes to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer or refrigerator evaporator coils. In order for this to work, the defrost thermostat has to sense that the coils are cold enough. If the coils are cold enough the defrost heater will turn on. If the thermostat is defective it may not be able to sense the temperature of the coils and then won't turn on the defrost heater. If the defrost heater doesn't turn on, the frost will build up on the coils and eventually no air will be able to travel through the coils to provide cooling . The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity. It should have continuity when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range.

5. Door Gasket

If the Refrigerator runs constantly the door gasket may be torn or defective, or if the door is not shutting tightly warm air can enter the the refrigerator and cause the evaporator coils to ice over. This happens because humid air from the room is drawn into the refrigerator through the opening at the gasket. As the humidity comes in contact with the cold evaporator coils it condenses and freezes. Normally the defrost system removes this frost and ice. However, if the door gasket is defective the evaporator coils ice over too quickly and the defrost cycle cannot keep up.

6. Evaporator Fan Motor

If the refrigerator runs constantly, the evaporator fan motor might have failed. Every refrigerator has a set of coils called an evaporator. The refrigerator may have one or more evaporator fan motors depending on the model and evaporator locations. The evaporator fan motor circulates the cold air from the coils thru the compartment. If there is only one evaporator it is in the freezer side. If the fan is not working, no cold air will get to the refrigerator compartment. The freezer may still get cold.

7. Defrost Control Board

If the refrigerator runs constantly, the defrost control board might be defective. The defrost control board monitors several conditions and determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the board fails, the refrigerator will not go into the defrost cycle. Eventually, ice will build up on the evaporator coil and then the refrigerator and or freezer will not stay cold enough. This will depend on where the evaporator is located. It's prudent to check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat for continuity before replacing the defrost control board.

8. Defrost Timer

If the refrigerator runs constantly, the defrost timer might be defective. Two or three times a day the defrost timer is supposed to turn on the defrost to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer evaporator coils. If the timer is defective it won't advance and won't turn on the heater.

9. Condenser Fan Motor

If the refrigerator runs constantly there might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor might be defective. The condenser fan motor draws air over the condenser coils to cool them. The condenser fan motor is located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.