Refrigerator common faults and solution
Not
Cooling
1.
Condenser Coils are Dirty
The
condenser coils are usually located under the refrigerator. They dissipate heat
as refrigerant passes through them. If the condenser coils are dirty, they
won’t dissipate the heat effectively. As debris builds up on the coils, the
refrigerator becomes less efficient, causing the refrigerator to work harder to
cool down. If the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will not be
able to maintain the proper temperature. Check the condenser coils to determine
if they are dirty,if the condenser coils are dirty, clean them.
2.
Evaporator Fan Motor
The
evaporator fan motor draws air over the evaporator (cooling) coils and
circulates it throughout the refrigerator and freezer compartments. Some
refrigerators have more than one evaporator fan motor. On refrigerators with
only one evaporator, the evaporator is located in the freezer compartment. If
the evaporator fan is not working, it will not circulate the cold air to the
refrigerator compartment. If this occurs, the freezer may still get cold, while
the refrigerator will not get cold. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is
defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn
freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is noisy,
replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test
the motor winding for continuity. If the winding do not have continuity,
replace the evaporator fan motor.
3.
Condenser Fan Motor
The
condenser fan motor draws air though the condenser coils and over the
compressor. If the condenser fan motor is not working properly, the
refrigerator won’t cool properly. To determine if the fan motor is defective,
first check the fan blade for obstructions. Next, try turning the fan motor
blade by hand. If the blade does not spin freely, replace the condenser fan
motor. If no obstructions are present and the fan blade spins freely, use a
multimeter to test the fan motor for continuity. If the condenser fan motor
does not have continuity, replace it.
4.
Start Relay
The
start relay works in conjunction with the start winding to start the
compressor. If the start relay is defective, the compressor may sometimes fail
to run or may not run at all. As a result, the refrigerator will not be cold
enough. To determine if the start relay is defective, use a multimeter to test
it for continuity between the run and start terminal sockets. If the start
relay does not have continuity between the run and start terminal sockets,
replace it. In addition, if the start relay has a burnt, replace it too.
5.
Temperature Control Thermostat
The
temperature control thermostat directs voltage to the compressor, evaporator
fan motor, and condenser fan motor (if applicable). If the temperature control
thermostat is not working properly, it may prevent the refrigerant system from
running. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat
from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a click. If the
thermostat clicks, it is not likely defective. If the thermostat does not
click, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the
temperature control thermostat does not have continuity at any setting, replace
it.
6.
Start Capacitor
The
start capacitor provides a boost of power to the compressor during start-up. If
the start capacitor isn’t working, the compressor may not start. As a result,
the refrigerator will not cool. To determine if the start capacitor is
defective, test it with an LCR multimeter. If the start capacitor is defective,
replace it.
7.Thermistor
The
thermistor monitors the refrigerator temperature and sends the temperature
reading to the control board. The control board regulates power to the
compressor and evaporator fan based on the thermistor readings. If the
thermistor is defective, the compressor and evaporator fan may not run when
necessary. As a result, the refrigerator will not be cold enough. To determine
if the thermistor is defective, test it with a multimeter. The thermistor
resistance should change in conjunction with the refrigerator temperature. If
the thermistor resistance does not change, or the thermistor does not have
continuity, replace the thermistor.
8.
Temperature Control Board
The
temperature control board provides voltage to the compressor and fan motors. If
the temperature control board is defective, it will stop sending voltage to the
cooling system. However, this is not a common occurrence. Control boards are
often misdiagnosed, before replacing the control board, first test all of the
more commonly defective components. If none of the other components are
defective, consider replacing the temperature control board.
9.
Compressor
The
compressor is a motor which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the
refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. If the compressor is
not working, the refrigerator won’t cool. However, this isn’t usually the case.
Before replacing the compressor, first check for defective components. If all
of the other components are working properly, use a multimeter to test the
compressor winding for continuity. If the compressor winding does not have
continuity, replace it.
10.
Main Control Board
The
main control board might be defective. However, this is almost never the cause.
Before replacing the main control board, test for defective parts. If none of
the other components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.
Water
Dispenser Not Working
1.
Water Tube in Door is Frozen
To
determine if the water supply tube is frozen, disconnect the tube at the bottom
of the door and blow air through it. If air does not pass through, this indicates
that the water supply tube is frozen. If the water supply tube is frozen, thaw
it out. In addition, ensure that the freezer is kept at the proper temperature.
The freezer temperature should be kept from 0-10 degrees Fahrenheit. If the
freezer is too cold, the water line may freeze.
2.
Water Inlet Valve
The
water inlet valve opens to supply water to the dispenser. If the water inlet
valve is defective, or if the water pressure is too low, the water valve will
not open. The valve requires at least 20psi to function properly. Make sure
that the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure
is sufficient, use a multimeter to test the water inlet valve for continuity.
If the water inlet valve does not have continuity, replace it.
3.
Low Water Pressure from House Supply
The
home may have insufficient water pressure. The water inlet valve supplies water
to the water dispenser. The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to
function properly. Check the water flow and test the pressure to determine if
it is at least 20 psi.
Ice
Maker Not Working
1.
Freezer Temperature is Above 10 Degrees F (-12 Degree C)
If
the freezer temperature is above 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12C), the ice maker
will not produce ice cubes efficiently. The freezer temperature should be set
between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -15 Degree C) for the ice maker to
work properly. If the freezer temperature is too high, ensure that the
condenser coils are clear of debris and the condenser fan is working properly.
In addition, check to see if frost has accumulated on the evaporator coils. If
the evaporator coils are frosted over, part of the defrost system has likely
failed.
2.
Water Inlet Valve
The
water inlet valve is an electrically-controlled valve that opens to supply
water to the dispenser and ice maker. If the water inlet valve is defective, or
if it has insufficient pressure, it won’t allow water to flow through. As a
result, the ice maker won’t make ice. The valve requires at least 20 psi to
function properly. Make sure that the water pressure to the valve is at least
20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, use a multimeter to check for
power to the water inlet valve. If the water inlet valve has sufficient
pressure and is getting power, but the ice maker won’t fill with water to make
ice, replace the water inlet valve.
3.
Ice Maker Assembly
Since
many of the ice maker components are not sold separately, you may need to
purchase and replace the entire ice maker assembly. Before replacing the ice
maker assembly, check the water inlet valve, water line, and fan. If none of
these parts are faulty, and the freezer temperature is not at least 15 degrees
Fahrenheit, replace the ice maker assembly.
Ice
Dispenser Not Working
1.
Dispenser Control Board
The
dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system.
If the control board is faulty, it may stop supplying power to the entire
dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, test each of the
dispenser components before testing the control board. May be single part has
failed. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is
more likely to be at faulty.
2.
Dispenser Switch
The
dispenser switches send voltage to the dispenser. If one of the dispenser
switches is defective, the dispenser will not work. To determine if a dispenser
switch is defective, use a multimeter to test each switch for continuity. If a
dispenser switch does not have continuity, replace it.
3.
Dispenser Actuator
The
dispenser actuator interacts with the dispenser switches, which power the auger
motor and other dispenser components. If the dispenser actuator is broken, it
may not activate the switches properly or at all. Inspect the dispenser
actuator, if it is broken replace it.
Not
Defrosting
1.
Defrost Control Board
The
defrost control board determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the
board fails, the refrigerator will not go into the defrost cycle. Before replacing
the defrost control board, first test the defrost heater and defrost
thermostat. If the defrost heater and defrost thermostat are working properly,
the defrost control board is likely defective.
2.
Defrost Timer
The
defrost timer turns on the defrost heater several times throughout the day to
melt any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the
defrost timer is defective, it may not advance into the defrost cycle, or it
may not send power to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. To determine
if the defrost timer is defective, slowly advance the dial into the defrost
cycle. The compressor should turn off and the heater should turn on. If the
timer does not send power to the defrost components or advance out of the
defrost cycle within 30 minutes, this indicates that the defrost timer is not
working. If the defrost timer is not working, then replace it.
3.
Defrost Heater Assembly
The
defrost heater assembly turns on several times throughout the day to melt away
any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost
heater assembly is defective, the defrost system will not work, and frost will
continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. To determine if the defrost
heater is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost
heater does not have continuity, then replace it.
Noisy
1.
Fan Blade
If
the refrigerator is noisy or loud, especially when the door is opened, either
the evaporator or condenser fan blade may be at fault. First, turn the
evaporator fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, check to
see if the blade is rubbing against something or if something is caught in the
blade. Additionally, check the condenser fan blade to determine if it has any
obstructions.
2.
Evaporator Fan Motor
When
the evaporator fan motor fails, it often generates a lot of noise. This noise
will be much louder when the refrigerator door is opened. If the evaporator fan
is noisy,then replace it.
3.
Condenser Fan Motor
There
might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser
fan motor bearings might be defective. The condenser fan motor is usually
located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out
from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.
Freezer
is Cold But Refrigerator is Warm
1.
The Evaporator Coils are Frosted Over
The
defrost heater assembly turns on a few times throughout the day to melt away
any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost
heater assembly is defective, frost will continue to accumulate on the
evaporator coils, and the coils will become plugged with frost. If the
evaporator coils are frosted over, the airflow through the coils will be
restricted, causing the refrigerator not to cool. Check the evaporator coils to
determine if they are frosted over. If the evaporator coils are frosted over,
test each component of the defrost system.
2.
Evaporator Fan Motor
The
evaporator fan motor draws cold air over the evaporator coils and circulates it
throughout the freezer. If the evaporator fan is not working, the freezer or
refrigerator will not cool adequately. To determine if the evaporator fan motor
is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn
freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is noisy, replace it.
Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor
winding for continuity. If the winding do not have continuity, replace the
evaporator fan motor.
3.
Damper Control Assembly
The
air damper control opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into
the refrigerator compartment. If the damper does not open properly, it won’t
let enough cold air into the refrigerator. Check the damper control to
determine if it is broken or closed.
Defrost
Drain Freeze
1.
Freezing Defrost Drain
The
defrost drain might be clogged or frozen. If the defrost drain is frozen, the
water will overflow trough drain and drip down to the bottom of
the compartment. If the defrost drain is frozen, thaw it out and ensure that
the drain is clear of debris.
2.
Drain Strap
Some
defrost drains are outfitted with a drain strap. The drain strap is a small
piece of copper or aluminum that attaches to the defrost heater and extends
partway into the defrost drain. When the defrost heater turns on, heat is
conducted through the drain strap to melt away any ice that may have
accumulated further down in the defrost drain. If the drain strap is not in
place, the defrost drain may be more likely to freeze over.
3.
Drain Heater
Some
refrigerators are equipped with drain heaters. Drain heaters prevent the water
in the drain pan from re-freezing and clogging the defrost drain. If your drain
heater is defective or is not in the proper position, the defrost drain might
freeze over.
Water
leakage
1.
Freezing Defrost Drain
If
the defrost drain is frozen, the water will overflow the drain trough and drip
down to the bottom of the compartment. This water can eventually leak onto the
floor. Check the defrost drain to determine if it is clogged or frozen. If the
defrost drain is frozen, thaw the ice. In addition, flush the drain with hot
water to ensure that it is clear of debris.
2.
Water Tank Assembly
Inspect
the water tank assembly for any leaks. Be aware that the leak may be very small
and hard to find. If you discover a leak, replace the water tank. Do not
attempt to repair the water tank, glue will not stick properly to the plastic protion
of the tank.
3.
Water Inlet Valve
The
water inlet valve opens to, supply water to the dispenser and icemaker. If the
water inlet valve is cracked or has a loose fitting, water will leak from the
valve. Inspect the water inlet valve for cracks, and make sure that it is
tightly secured to the water supply line.
Freezing
Food
1.
Temperature Control Thermostat
The
temperature control thermostat directs voltage to the compressor, evaporator
fan motor, and condenser fan motor (if applicable). If the temperature control
thermostat is not working properly, it may cause the refrigerant system to run
longer than necessary. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cold. To
determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest
setting to the highest setting and listen for a click. If the thermostat
clicks, it is not likely defective. If the thermostat does not click, use a
multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control
thermostat does not have continuity at any setting, replace it.
2.
Thermistor
The
thermistor monitors the air temperature and sends the temperature reading to
the control board. The control board then regulates power to the compressor and
evaporator fan based on the thermistor readings. If the thermistor is
defective, the compressor and evaporator fan may run too frequently. As a
result, the refrigerator will be too cool. To determine if the thermistor is
defective, test it with a multimeter. The thermistor resistance should change
in conjunction with the refrigerator temperature. If the thermistor resistance
does not change, or the thermistor does not have continuity, replace the
thermistor.
3.
Temperature Control Board
The
temperature control board provides voltage to the compressor and fan motors. If
the control board is faulty, it may send continuous voltage to the compressor
or fan motors. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cool. Control boards
are often misdiagnosed, before replacing the control board, first test for
other defective components. If none of the other components are defective,
consider replacing the temperature control board.
Ice
And Water Dispenser Not Working
1.
Dispenser Control Board
The
dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system.
If only one dispenser part is not working, it is probable that an individual
part has failed. In this case, test each of the dispenser components before
testing the control board. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the
control board is more likely to be at
2.
Dispenser Switch
The
dispenser switches send voltage to the dispenser. If one of the dispenser
switch is defective, the dispenser will not work. To determine if a dispenser
switch is defective, use a multimeter to test each switch for continuity. If a
dispenser switch does not have continuity, replace it.
3.
Door Switch
The
door switch turns off the ice and water dispenser when the refrigerator door is
open. If the door switch fails, the dispenser will not turn on. To determine if
the door switch is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If
the door switch does not have continuity when activated, replace it.
Ice
Maker Overflowing
1.
Water Inlet Valve
The
water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to shut off properly. If the
water pressure is too low, the valve may not close fully once the power is shut
off. As a result, the valve will leak water into the ice maker and cause the
ice maker to overflow. Check the water pressure to determine if it is at least
20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, the water inlet valve is likely
defective. The valve may not shut off all the way or may be stuck open, causing
water to leak through the valve. If the water pressure is sufficient, but the
ice maker is still overflowing, replace the water inlet valve.
2.
Low Water Pressure from House Supply
The
water inlet valve supplies water to the refrigerator ice and water dispenser.
The valve requires a minimum of 20psi to work properly. If the water pressure is
too low, the valve may not close fully when the power is shut off. As a result,
the valve leaks water into the ice maker, causing it to overflow. Check the
water flow and test the pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi.
3.
Ice Maker Assembly
Since
many of the ice maker components are not sold separately, you may need to
purchase and replace the entire ice maker assembly.
Light
Not Working
1.
Light Assembly
The
light assembly might be defective. Some manufacturers don’t sell the bulb
separately, and instead require you to purchase the light assembly.
2.
Light Switch
To
determine if the light switch is defective, use a multimeter to test it for
continuity. If the light switch does not have continuity, replace it.
3.
Door Switch
To
determine if the door switch is defective, use a multimeter to test it for
continuity. If the door switch does not have continuity when activated, replace
it.
4.
Light Socket
To
determine if the light socket is defective, use a multimeter to determine if
the socket is getting power. If the socket is getting power, but the bulb won’t
work, this indicates that the light socket is defective. If the light socket is
defective, replace it.
5.
Light Board
First,
ensure that the light board is receiving the proper amount of voltage. If the
light board is receiving sufficient voltage, but the refrigerator light will
not work, replace the light board.
Runs
Constantly
1.
Condenser Coils are Dirty
The
condenser coils are usually located under the refrigerator. They dissipate heat
from the refrigerator as refrigerant passes through them. If debris accumulates
on the coils, the refrigerator will have to work harder to remove the heat. If
the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will run constantly in an
effort to cool down. Your refrigerator’s condenser coils should be cleaned
twice a year.
2.
Freezer Temperature is Above 10 Degrees F (-12C)
If
the freezer temperature is above 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12 Degree C), the
refrigerator will not be cold enough. If the refrigerator is not cold enough,
it will work harder to cold down. As a result, it will run constantly. The
freezer temperature should be set between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to
-15 Degree C). If the freezer temperature is too high, ensure that
the condenser coils are clear of debris and the condenser fan is working
properly. In addition, check to see if frost has accumulated on the evaporator
coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, part of the defrost system has
likely failed.
3.
Defrost Heater Assembly
The
defrost heater assembly turns on several times throughout the day to melt away
any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost
heater assembly is defective, the refrigerator will not defrost, and frost will
continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are
frosted over, the refrigerator will work harder to remove the heat. As a
result, the refrigerator will run constantly in an effort to cool down. To
determine if the defrost heater is defective, use a multimeter to test it for
continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, replace it.
4.
Defrost Thermostat
If
the refrigerator runs constantly, the defrost thermostat might be defective.
Several times a day the defrost heater turns on for a few minutes to melt away
any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer or refrigerator evaporator
coils. In order for this to work, the defrost thermostat has to sense that the
coils are cold enough. If the coils are cold enough the defrost heater will
turn on. If the thermostat is defective it may not be able to sense the
temperature of the coils and then won't turn on the defrost heater. If the
defrost heater doesn't turn on, the frost will build up on the coils and
eventually no air will be able to travel through the coils to provide cooling .
The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity. It should have continuity
when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range.
5.
Door Gasket
If
the Refrigerator runs constantly the door gasket may be torn or defective, or
if the door is not shutting tightly warm air can enter the the refrigerator and
cause the evaporator coils to ice over. This happens because humid air from the
room is drawn into the refrigerator through the opening at the gasket. As the
humidity comes in contact with the cold evaporator coils it condenses and
freezes. Normally the defrost system removes this frost and ice. However, if
the door gasket is defective the evaporator coils ice over too quickly and the
defrost cycle cannot keep up.
6.
Evaporator Fan Motor
If
the refrigerator runs constantly, the evaporator fan motor might have failed.
Every refrigerator has a set of coils called an evaporator. The refrigerator
may have one or more evaporator fan motors depending on the model and
evaporator locations. The evaporator fan motor circulates the cold air from the
coils thru the compartment. If there is only one evaporator it is in the
freezer side. If the fan is not working, no cold air will get to the
refrigerator compartment. The freezer may still get cold.
7.
Defrost Control Board
If
the refrigerator runs constantly, the defrost control board might be defective.
The defrost control board monitors several conditions and determines how often
to run the defrost cycle. If the board fails, the refrigerator will not go into
the defrost cycle. Eventually, ice will build up on the evaporator coil and then
the refrigerator and or freezer will not stay cold enough. This will depend on
where the evaporator is located. It's prudent to check the defrost heater and
defrost thermostat for continuity before replacing the defrost control board.
8.
Defrost Timer
If
the refrigerator runs constantly, the defrost timer might be defective. Two or
three times a day the defrost timer is supposed to turn on the defrost to melt
away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer evaporator coils. If
the timer is defective it won't advance and won't turn on the heater.
9.
Condenser Fan Motor
If
the refrigerator runs constantly there might be something caught in the
condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor might be defective. The
condenser fan motor draws air over the condenser coils to cool them. The
condenser fan motor is located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull
the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.
