Master Electronics Repair !

Welcome to Master Electronics Repair! website.Here you will find:Service Modes, Circuit Diagrams,Service manuals, Firmware Update procedure, Disassemble procedure, Universal remote control setup codes, Troubleshooting, Diagnosing, Measuring, and more.... of many of LCD/LED TV/Displays,others various electronic apparates,trough many technical notes and tips/tricks to help repairing/fixing Troubles/ faults,for electrical technicians.This site helps you to save the Earth from electronic waste!

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

In Brief: On this site you will find pictures and technical information about Service Modes, Circuit Diagrams, Firmware Update procedure, Disassemble procedure, Universal remote control set-up codes, Troubleshooting and more....

If you go into the profession, you will obtain or have access to a variety of tech tips databases HERE IT IS Master Electronics Repair !.

These are an excellent investment where the saying: 'time-is-money' rules. However, to learn, you need to develop a general troubleshooting approach - a logical, methodical, method of narrowing down the problem. A tech tip database might suggest: 'Replace C536' for a particular symptom. This is good advice for a specific problem on one model. However, what you really want to understand is why C536 was the cause and how to pinpoint the culprit in general even if you don't have a service manual or schematic and your tech tip database doesn't have an entry for your sick TV or VCR.

While schematics are nice, you won't always have them or be able to justify the purchase for a one-of repair. Therefore, in many cases, some reverse engineering will be necessary. The time will be well spent since even if you don't see another instance of the same model in your entire lifetime, you will have learned something in the process that can be applied to other equipment problems.
As always, when you get stuck, checking out a tech-tips database may quickly identify your problem and solution.In that case, you can greatly simplify your troubleshooting or at least confirm a diagnosis before ordering parts.

Happy repairing!

Today, the West is headed for the abyss. For the ultimate fate of our disposable society is for that society itself to be disposed of. And this will happen sooner, rather than later.

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- If you landed here via any Search Engine, you will get what you searched for and you can search more using the search this blog feature provided by Google. You can visit more posts scrolling the left blog archive of all posts of the month/year,
or you can click on the main photo-page to start from the main page. Doing so it starts from the most recent post to the older post simple clicking on the Older Post button on the bottom of each page after reading , post after post.

You can even visit all posts, time to time, when reaching the bottom end of each page and click on the Older Post button.

- If you arrived here at the main page via bookmark you can visit all the site scrolling the left blog archive of all posts of the month/year pointing were you want , or more simple You can even visit all blog posts, from newer to older, clicking at the end of each bottom page on the Older Post button.
So you can see all the blog/site content surfing all pages in it.

- The search this blog feature provided by Google is a real search engine. If you're pointing particular things it will search IT for you; or you can place a brand name in the search query at your choice and visit all results page by page. It's useful since the content of the site is very large.

Note that if you don't find what you searched for, try it after a period of time; the site is a never ending job !

..............The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of todays funny gadgets low price has faded from memory........ . . . . . .....
Don't forget the past, the end of the world is upon us! Pretty soon it will all turn to dust!

©2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 Frank Sharp - You do not have permission to copy photos and words from this blog, and any content may be never used it for auctions or commercial purposes, however feel free to post anything you see here with a courtesy link back, btw a link to the original post here , is mandatory.
All posts are presented here for informative, historical and educative purposes as applicable within fair use. NOTHING HERE IS FOR SALE !

Monday, 4 March 2019

APPLE IPHONE 4 - DISPLAY REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE - STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTION TO REPLACE THE DISPLAY – MOBILES AND SMART PHONES REPAIR AND SERVICE

Apple iPhone 4 - Display replacement procedure - Step by step instruction to replace the display – Mobiles and smart phones repair and service

Category: Mobiles and Smartphones Repair and Service

Contents of this article

How to replace the display
step by step instruction

Apple iPhone 4

DISPLAY REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off. Your iPhone 4 rear cover may have either two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws.

Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone. The panel will move about 2 mm.

Pinch the rear panel with your fingers and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup . Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel. If you are installing a new rear panel, be sure to remove the plastic protective sticker from the inside of the camera lens and the sticker from the large black area near the lens.

Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board. Some devices may have two screws, one of which holds down the contact pad which is located above the screw indicated in red in the photo.

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board. Pry from the top and bottom of the connector bracket—there isn't as much of an overhang on the sides, and you may damage the connector.

Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.
Remove the metal clip covering the antenna connector.

Use the clear plastic pull tab to gently lift the battery out of the iPhone. Do not remove the plastic tab from the iPhone. You may need to use a plastic opening tool to loosen the adhesive under the battery. Remove the contact clip from the iPhone. Before reconnecting the battery connector, be sure the contact clip (shown in red) is properly positioned next to the battery connector. Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the pressure contact as well as its contact point on the rear panel with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

Use a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip to eject the SIM card and its holder. This may require a significant amount of force. Remove the SIM card and its holder.

Remove the following two screws:

One 1.2 mm Phillips
One 1.6 mm Phillips

Remove the thin steel dock connector cable cover from the iPhone. Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the dock connector cable cover with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

Use an iPod opening tool to gently pry the dock cable connector up off the logic board from both short ends of the connector.

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the lower antenna connector up off its socket on the logic board. Remove the 1.9 mm Phillips screw securing the bottom of the logic board to the inner case.

Remove the following five screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the logic board:

One 2.3 mm Phillips
Two 1.6 mm Phillips
One 1.4 mm Phillips
One 4.8 mm Phillips

When re-assembling, start off with replacing the 4.8 mm Philips screw first, then the 2.3 mm. This is to ensure there is no mix-up, and avoid rendering the LCD and digitizer useless. Also make sure to put the long 4.8 mm Philips back in correctly when reassembling. This is the ground for the Wi-Fi antenna and is often the culprit if you are having bad Wi-Fi reception after reassembly.

Use an iPod opening tool to slightly lift the top edge of the Wi-Fi antenna away from the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to pull the Wi-Fi retaining clips away from the inner frame. Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the iPhone. Make sure you don't lose the metal clips on the top of the cover where the 4.8mm screw attaches or the 4.8mm screw. That's the primary reason for abnormal Wi-Fi performance after the reassembly. Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the connector cover with a de-greaser such as Windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues. Do not clean the connectors themselves with Windex.

Use an iPod opening tool to carefully lift the rear camera connector up off its socket on the logic board. Remove the rear camera.

Remove the small circular white sticker (warranty sticker and water indicator) covering the screw near the battery pull tab. Remove the 2.4 mm Phillips screw that was hidden underneath the sticker.

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the following connectors up and out of their sockets on the logic board:

Digitizer cable (pry from bottom)
LCD cable (pry from bottom) Headphone jack/volume button cable (pry from top)
Top Microphone/sleep button cable (pry from top)
Front camera cable (pry from top)

Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the 4.8 mm standoff near the headphone jack. When reassembling the device, this standoff sets the height of the Wi-Fi shield removed in step 13. If not torqued down, the shield will be above the plane of the frame and the back will not slide into place in step 2. The shield should be flush with the headphone jack.

When reassembling the motherboard, ensure that its edge sits under the circled standoff, otherwise the screws will not fit. When reassembling ensure that the small rubber spacer attached to the top of the motherboard is in place. Without this part the motherboard could damage the ribbon cables around it.

Carefully remove the logic board from the iPhone, minding any cables that may get caught. Be careful not to damage the small gold prong (marked in red, near the top) as it's very fragile.

On reassembly, be careful not to trap the lower antenna cable beneath the logic board.

Remove the single 2.4 mm Phillips screw securing the speaker enclosure to the side of the inner frame.

Remove the speaker enclosure from the iPhone. Before re-fastening the speaker enclosure to the inner frame, be sure the four small EMI fingers rest below the lip of the LCD frame. Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points between the EMI fingers and the internal frame as well as the brass screw mounting point with a de-greaser such as Windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

Remove the following two screws securing the vibrator to the inner frame:

One 6 mm Phillips
One 1.4 mm Phillips

Remove the vibrator from the iPhone.

Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the front panel near the headphone jack.

Remove the three large-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screws along the volume button side of the iPhone. Keep track of the washers under each of the screws.

Tip: It can be tricky, but it is also possible to just loosen the large headed 1.5 mm Phillips screws slightly, without having to remove and replace the screw-and-washer set.

Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw near the lower microphone.

Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw near the dock connector ribbon cable.

Remove the three large-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screws along the SIM card side of the iPhone. Keep track of the washers under each of the screws.

Tip: It can be tricky, but it is also possible to just loosen the large headed 1.5 mm Phillips screws slightly, without having to remove and replace the screw-and-washer set. Remove the small-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screw near the rear camera.

Carefully insert the edge of an iPod opening tool between the rubber bezel around the front glass panel and the steel inner frame. Do not attempt to insert the tool between the glass and the rubber bezel. Carefully pry the upper edge of the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame.

Slowly and gently lift the top edge of the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame. Continue to rotate the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame until it slowly begins to peel off the adhesive applied below the home button area. It may be easiest to insert a spudger at the top and work it around the edges, spreading gently as you go.

Carefully pull the lower edge of the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame. Be careful, if the home button sticks to the front panel you may tear the home button cable. Do not flip the front glass completely away from the frame. Doing so may result In damage to the digitizer cable. If the glass is cracked (which it probably is since you're replacing it) removing the panel is likely to cause it to bend, kicking off small shards of glass. Before you do this step, cover the front with clear tape, then perform the actual removal over a trash can. Protective eyewear would also be prudent.

De-route the digitizer and LCD cables through the steel inner frame, and remove the display from the iPhone. When reinstalling the display, carefully straighten the digitizer and LCD data cables, and feed them through the slot cut in the steel frame. This photo shows the display assembly being installed incorrectly, with a fold in the digitizer cable. When the front panel has been correctly installed, both the LCD and digitizer cables should be immediately next to one another and should be the same length, as shown in the second photo.

If the digitizer cable has not been installed correctly, it will not reach its socket on the logic board. Do not attempt to pull it through by force, or it will tear. Remove the displa assembly, straighten the cable, and feed it through to its full length, as shown.
During reassembly, do not touch the metallic area at the base of the LCD data cable, as this can cause problems with the LCD. If you do touch it accidentally, clean it gently with an alcohol wipe before continuing