REPAIRING AND NOT THROWING AWAY

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

In Brief: On this site you will find pictures and technical information about Service Modes, Circuit Diagrams, Firmware Update procedure, Disassemble procedure, Universal remote control set-up codes, Troubleshooting and more....

If you go into the profession, you will obtain or have access to a variety of tech tips databases HERE IT IS Master Electronics Repair !.

These are an excellent investment where the saying: 'time-is-money' rules. However, to learn, you need to develop a general troubleshooting approach - a logical, methodical, method of narrowing down the problem. A tech tip database might suggest: 'Replace C536' for a particular symptom. This is good advice for a specific problem on one model. However, what you really want to understand is why C536 was the cause and how to pinpoint the culprit in general even if you don't have a service manual or schematic and your tech tip database doesn't have an entry for your sick TV or VCR.

While schematics are nice, you won't always have them or be able to justify the purchase for a one-of repair. Therefore, in many cases, some reverse engineering will be necessary. The time will be well spent since even if you don't see another instance of the same model in your entire lifetime, you will have learned something in the process that can be applied to other equipment problems.
As always, when you get stuck, checking out a tech-tips database may quickly identify your problem and solution.In that case, you can greatly simplify your troubleshooting or at least confirm a diagnosis before ordering parts.

Happy repairing!
Today, the West is headed for the abyss. For the ultimate fate of our disposable society is for that society itself to be disposed of. And this will happen sooner, rather than later.

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..............The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of todays funny gadgets low price has faded from memory........ . . . . . .....
Don't forget the past, the end of the world is upon us! Pretty soon it will all turn to dust!

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All posts are presented here for informative, historical and educative purposes as applicable within fair use. NOTHING HERE IS FOR SALE !

Tuesday 5 March 2019

SOLE ELLIPTICAL - E25 - E35 - E55 - E95 – PIN TEST - BREAK AND FLYWHEEL ADJUSTMENT – LUBRICATION – HOW TO FIX NOISE PROBLEMS – HOW TO REMOVE THE PEDAL ARM

Sole Elliptical - E25 - E35 - E55 - E95 – Pin test - Break and flywheel adjustment – Lubrication – How to fix Noise problems – How to remove the pedal arm

Category: Elliptical Repair and Service 

Contents of this article 

  • Elliptical pin test
  • Flywheel adjustment
  • Noise fixing
  • Pedal arm removal   





Sole Elliptical E25 - E35 - E55 - E95

Pin Test
UP - Short pin 8 to pin 10
DOWN - Short pin 8 to pin 9 Pin Test for Resistance:
Resistance UP - Short pin 8 to pin 7 and pin 6 to pin 2.
Resistance DOWN - Short pin 8 to pin 6 and pin 7 to pin 2. With a meter:
Power at the end of the harness - Put meter leads on pins 8 and 2 You should have around 15 volts.
Speed sensor - With meter on ohms setting, put meter leads on pins 1 and 2.
Turn the pedal and see if you ever get continuity.

Brake and  Flywheel Adjustment
Improperly adjusted cable will result in:
1. no resistance
2. excessive resistance.
3. scraping noise from brake
4. clicking/popping noise at lowest resistance
Remove left cover and pedal. Once cover is removed, locate the brake/fl ywheel. On the left side, the control cable is attached from the brake to the resistance motor. There are 2 adjustment points on the cable. One is where the cable hooks to the resistance motor. The other is located at the bend on the cable where it attaches to the brake.
To Adjust:
Set the machine at the lowest resistance level. Locate the metal bend in the cable by the fl ywheel/brake. Loosen the small jam nut that is against the large nut. Turn the large nut clockwise/counter-clockwise to adjust the cable. There should be a gap of 1/16” from the cable stop to the bottom of the slot it rides in. Adjust the large nut to get the gap
set. Tighten the jam nut once cable has been adjusted.

Cleaning rails and wheels lubrication
1. With a rag and rubbing alcohol, wipe down the aluminum rails and wheels that run up and down the rails. Make sure to clean off all old lube and dirt that may have built up there,

2. Using the lube that came with your machine, you need to lightly coat the rails and wheels with lube.
You only need to use two small drops of lube on each rail and wheel.
Elliptical Noise
If you encounter a noise issue with your Sole elliptical we have found that in most cases the noise can be fi xed quickly and easily with one of the following 5 simple options.
1. Clean and re-lube wheels and rails.
2. We have found that during shipping, one of the bolts that holds the mast in place can work its way out and fall inside. This will cause a noise because the bolt is being hit by the moving parts inside.
3. We have started putting a piece of white foam in the area where the mast connects to the unit. The foam is there to catch bolts or washers that you might drop trying to secure the mast. This piece of foam needs to be removed after the mast bolts are tightened because it can rub on the moving parts inside causing noise.

4. If it is not the foam or the bolt that is causing the noise the shroud may need to be adjusted forward or backward. On each side of the unit, near the bottom, there are three oval shaped screw holes. The oval shape allows for minor adjustments to be made. In order to make this adjustment, loosen all six screws and slide the shroud either forward or backward until noise is adjusted out.

5. There is a black cap between the wheels on each side. The wheels can rub on this cap causing a rubbing noise and/or vibration. This cap should be removed.
                                                                
Fixing the “Thump”
We have seen a few elliptical units that have developed a thump after a few weeks of use. If your unit is having this problem there is a very simple way to fix it. The first thing to do is clean the rails and wheels with rubbing alcohol, then apply a very light coat of lube on the rails. This is very important because if there is any debris between the wheels and the rails it can be felt throughout the machine. Once the rails and wheels have been cleaned, check to see if the unit is still making a “thump”. If it is, proceed to step one.
1. Using a flat screw driver, take the disc cover off.

2. You will be able to see a black allen head bolt and a silver hex head bolt. The allen head bolt is what clamps down the cross member to the axel. This allen head bolt needs to be tightened down with a 6m allen wrench and something else to give you leverage (such as a closed end wrench which is pictured). This bolt needs to be very, very, tight. With just an allen wrench you will not be able to get it tight enough. Once the bolt is very tight, snap the disc back into place and test unit for noise. This should take care if the noise. If it does not, please call our service department.

Removing the pedal arm bushing housing
1. To remove the bushing housing, you need to remove the plastic cover that goes over the end of the pedal arm.
2. Take the nut off of the bolt that goes through the pedal arm and the bushing housing. To do this you need an allen wrench and a 13mm wrench.

3. When you pull out this bolt, you can slide the pedal arm off of the bushing housing.
4. Remove the hex head bolt and washer. Slide the bushing housing off of the axle.