REPAIRING AND NOT THROWING AWAY

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

In Brief: On this site you will find pictures and technical information about Service Modes, Circuit Diagrams, Firmware Update procedure, Disassemble procedure, Universal remote control set-up codes, Troubleshooting and more....

If you go into the profession, you will obtain or have access to a variety of tech tips databases HERE IT IS Master Electronics Repair !.

These are an excellent investment where the saying: 'time-is-money' rules. However, to learn, you need to develop a general troubleshooting approach - a logical, methodical, method of narrowing down the problem. A tech tip database might suggest: 'Replace C536' for a particular symptom. This is good advice for a specific problem on one model. However, what you really want to understand is why C536 was the cause and how to pinpoint the culprit in general even if you don't have a service manual or schematic and your tech tip database doesn't have an entry for your sick TV or VCR.

While schematics are nice, you won't always have them or be able to justify the purchase for a one-of repair. Therefore, in many cases, some reverse engineering will be necessary. The time will be well spent since even if you don't see another instance of the same model in your entire lifetime, you will have learned something in the process that can be applied to other equipment problems.
As always, when you get stuck, checking out a tech-tips database may quickly identify your problem and solution.In that case, you can greatly simplify your troubleshooting or at least confirm a diagnosis before ordering parts.

Happy repairing!
Today, the West is headed for the abyss. For the ultimate fate of our disposable society is for that society itself to be disposed of. And this will happen sooner, rather than later.

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..............The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of todays funny gadgets low price has faded from memory........ . . . . . .....
Don't forget the past, the end of the world is upon us! Pretty soon it will all turn to dust!

©2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 Frank Sharp - You do not have permission to copy photos and words from this blog, and any content may be never used it for auctions or commercial purposes, however feel free to post anything you see here with a courtesy link back, btw a link to the original post here , is mandatory.
All posts are presented here for informative, historical and educative purposes as applicable within fair use. NOTHING HERE IS FOR SALE !

Showing posts with label ASUS. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ASUS. Show all posts

Tuesday, 18 February 2020

REPAIRING POWER SUPPLY PA-1650-66 (+19 V, 3.42 A) FOR LAPTOP ASUS

In the article, the author describes the power supply circuit of the model PA -1650-66 of an ASUS laptop , with an output voltage of +19 V and a maximum allowable current of 3.42 A, and also describes its repair. The author compiled the circuit from the inspection of the wiring diagram.
This power supply (IP), made in China, is made as a separate unit. Its appearance is shown in Fig. 1. It is designed to power laptops with a voltage of +19 V (maximum load current - 3.42 A). It is powered from the mains with a nominal voltage of -230 V, with a permissible range of -100 V ... -240 V.

Externally, the IP enclosure consists of 2 plastic covers glued together (Fig. 1), inside the enclosure there is a C300 94VO XD-103 mounting plate with a size of 100 × 40 mm (Fig. 2 a, b), with two-sided installation of radio elements.


All 20 pcs. mounted elements located on the upper side of the circuit board are designated by the manufacturers, but SMD elements (51 pcs., this is about 70% of all) located on the lower side of the board, between the conductive tracks, are not marked. This greatly complicates the repair of the IP and the preparation of its circuit diagram, because anonymized elements are not known where to put in the circuit.
Therefore, I found on the Internet a similar diagram of an earlier model of IP (PA-1650-56) on which all elements of IP are indicated, but their ratings are not indicated. I used part of the notation from it, and those elements that were absent, I designated myself, and so the diagram in Fig. 3 turned out. Pulse IP is assembled according to a single-cycle flyback circuit.



I took the SMD codes of the resistors of the microcircuits and transistors from the IP, which I was repairing, decoded them, and displayed them in Fig. 3. In the same place (on the diagram), inside the resistors (rectangles), inscriptions of the SMD resistor codes are placed. This was done for the convenience of the repairmen, but the inscriptions on the capacitors and diodes in the IP I was repairing were missing, so their ratings in Fig. 3 are not shown. Also in Fig. 3, the pinouts of the D151 and D301 diodes (in the SOT-23 package) and the Q050 transistor are additionally shown.
In their products, Chinese manufacturers often do not designate SMD elements to make it difficult to repair these products and force their owners, or repairmen, to discard damaged products and buy new ones. In addition, if you look at the IP mounting plate (Fig. 2, b), you can see that the manufacturer did not install many of the elements that were provided by the developers. The reason for this is the desire to save money to the detriment of IP quality.



To facilitate the reading of the circuit diagram of IP PA-1650-66 (Fig. 3), the purpose of its elements is given below:
 RT001 (4 Ohms) - thermistor limiting the starting current of the transmitter after supplying the supply voltage;
 RV001 (07471) - a varistor protecting the IP circuit from power surges in the supply network;
 С001, L001, L002 - filter;
 D050 (2 A, 400 V) - rectifier bridge;
 С051 (120 microfarads, 400 V) - smoothing capacitor;
 C3, C5, C7, C9 - high-voltage SMD capacitors;
 ІС100 (LTA809FA) - The main IC IP, in the SOP-8 package;
 Q050 (2SK3569, 600 V, 10 A) - N-channel field-effect key transistor of the converter, it is mounted on an aluminum radiator;
 R100, R100-1, D100 - power supply circuit of the microcircuit at the initial moment of switching on the power supply;
 R051 (0.27 Ohm, 1 W) - current sensor, the voltage on which is proportional to the current of the transistor 0050;
 Winding 4-6 T050, D151 (JSW), R151 (5.7 Ohms), C054-1 (22 μF 50 V), С054 - IC100 power supply circuit in operating mode;
 D052, R050, R050-1 (41 kOhm), C053 - a damping chain that suppresses voltage surges on the key 0050, at the time of its closing. These emissions can exceed the network voltage by 3 ... 4 times;
 R102-1, D102, R102 - a chain for supplying control pulses from IC100 (pin 8) to the gate of the key Q050 and quick discharge of the gate capacitance Q050;
 C101, B103, RT100 - a chain that sets the frequency of operation of the converter of the microcircuit and performs its thermal stabilization;
 T050 - pulse ferrite transformer with 3 windings;
 D200 (V30112OC0926G) - a powerful Schottky diode in the rectifier circuit +19 V, it is mounted on an aluminum radiator;
 C200, P200 (100 Ohms), R200-1 (100 Ohms) - IC circuit connected in parallel to the Schottky diode D200;
 C202 (680 μF 25 V), C203 (330 μF 25 V) - smoothing electrolytic capacitors in the +19 V circuit;
 С201, С204 - capacitors that suppress high-frequency noise in the +19 V circuit;
 LED - green LED indicating the presence of +19 V at the output; R102 (10 kOhm) - a quenching resistor in the power supply circuit of this LED;
 R005 (0.05 Ohm) - a powerful SMD resistor, a load current sensor IP.
Feedback Loop (OS)
It is designed to stabilize the output voltage +19 V, regardless of changes in the supply voltage and the load on the IP.

The main elements of the OS (Fig. 3):
 IC2 (LX8357TXA) is an optocoupler, connected between the high-voltage and low-voltage parts of the IP and decouples it with the high-voltage and low-voltage parts. In the high-voltage part, it acts on pin 2 of the IC100 chip, controlling this duty cycle of the pulses of this chip;
 IC301 (103A1W) - a specialized chip. It includes a controlled zener diode and two operational amplifiers (Fig. 3), this allows efficiently and with high accuracy to maintain +19 V voltage at the output and protects the switchgear against short circuit in the load.
The operating principle of the OS is to change the duration of the energy pulses supplied by the IC100 chip (through key 0050) to the winding 1-3 of the T050 transformer, depending on the voltage value at the output of the IP. The value of this voltage is monitored by the IC301 microcircuit, together with the elements of its strapping. If the voltage of +19 V sags due to a decrease in the supply voltage or an increase in the load, then the OS immediately increases the energy output to the transformer windings and this will maintain the value of +19 V, within the specified limits. When increasing the supply voltage or reducing the load on the IP, the OS system does the opposite.
Repairs
It starts with providing access to the circuit board, and since it preys inside the plastic case, which consists of 2 covers glued together, they must be disconnected (Fig. 1). It is most convenient to disconnect the covers by moving the knife blade along the perimeter of the bonding site of the halves of the body, slightly striking with a hammer on the outside of the knife blade until the glued halves are disconnected.
Then, having removed the halves of the plastic case, unsolder at 2 points the mounting points of the screen with the mounting plate and remove the screen, and then the insulating gasket.
On the circuit board, above and below, in addition to the radioelements, you will see a white solidified insulating mass that looks like thick sour cream. At the top of the board, it covers the space between the radio elements, and stuck to them, and at the bottom, it isolates the conductive tracks along with the SMD elements.

This white mass has a dual purpose:
 first, to protect the radio elements from shaking, and therefore, from tearing their rations from mounting tracks;
 the second is to prevent the unit from being repaired, since the flooded mass makes it impossible to access the radio elements, and for repairs it must be removed. Removing this mass takes a lot of time and patience. This makes repairs more expensive, which is why repairmen refuse to repair such IPs, and their owners often throw out failed IPs by buying new ones, which is what Chinese manufacturers require.
But if you decide to repair the IP, then remove (pick out) the white mass is best with the tip of a bent awl. After removing it, it is necessary to inspect the circuit board, and if swollen electrolytic capacitors are found there or other elements that are clearly damaged are damaged, they must be replaced.
And now we will consider the typical external manifestations of the malfunction of this IP (Fig. 3) and how to eliminate them.

The adapter does not work, the green LED, indicating the presence of +19 V voltage, does not light
First of all, it is necessary to check the voltage on the capacitor C051 (Fig. 3), with a supply voltage of ~ 230 V, it should be about + 280 .... + 320 V.
If this voltage is not present, then use an ohmmeter to check the health of the entire circuit, starting from the ~ 230 V input: F001, RT001, L001, L002, D050, C051 (Fig. 3). If an open fuse F001 is detected, then this is usually a consequence of a breakdown of the field effect transistor D050 (2SK3569), or the D050 bridge, they must be checked with an ohmmeter and replaced if necessary. But if the transistor Q050 is broken, then with it the IC100 (LTA809FA) chip and the RQ51 current sensor (027 Ohms) are always damaged, all of them must be replaced.
If there is the required voltage on С051, and the Q050 field-effect transistor is not broken, and the IP does not start, then it is necessary to check the serviceability of the radio elements of the IP start-up chain at the time of inclusion in the power supply: R100, R100-1, D101. If this chain is serviceable, then it is necessary to check the serviceability of the IC100 strapping, the serviceability of the windings 1-3 of the T050 transformer. The malfunction can also be in the secondary circuit +19 V, while it is necessary to check: D200, C202, C203, all elements of the strands of the IC301 chip and the IC2 optocoupler. If all of the above items are working, and the IP does not start, replace the IC100 chip (LTA809FA).
When the IP is connected to the network, a green LED signaling the presence of +19 V lights up for 2 seconds and then goes off and then the IP does not work. If the IP is reconnected to the network, the LED flashes again
The very fact of the short-term appearance of the LED glow indicates the serviceability of the IP start-up system (R100, R100-1, D101) (Fig. 3), together with the IC100 chip and the Q050 field effect transistor. A faulty may be:
 feedback loop (POS) stabilizing +19 V within the specified limits: IC301 together with the harness elements (D301, optocoupler IC2, and the most likely damage is a break in resistors R101 or R305);
 IP power system in working condition: winding 4-6 T050, D151 (JSW), R151 (5.7 Ohms), C054-1 (loss of capacitance), C054;
 significant loss of capacity by capacitors C202, C203.

Therefore, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the above radio elements and replace if necessary.
The green LED indicating the presence of +19 V voltage is on, but there is no voltage on the adapter plug
Malfunctioning can be a break in the conductors inside the +19 V cable (this is the most likely reason), or a violation of the soldering of wires inside the plug, or, for a rare reason, a break in the resistor R005 (0.05 Ohms) (Fig. 3).
In the presence of this malfunction, it is necessary to get to the circuit board, but there is no need to pick out the insulating mass from the circuit board with white. The conductivity of conductive conductors is checked with an ohmmeter, a break is most often observed near the cable exit from the IP or near the plug. To find the place of the cliff, an ohmmeter must be connected in turn to each conductive conductor and, bending the cable, observe the readings of the ohmmeter, when bending at the site of the cliff, its readings will show a break. The detected cable break should be cut out and re-soldered or a new cable should be used.
If the ohmmeter showed that the cable conductors are working, then an open can also be inside the plug (open cable soldering to the plug). The plug must be cut and soldered new, and if it is not, cut the soft plastic on the plug into 2 parts, and soldered the cores, and then, glue the plastic back. As glue, you can use hot melt. If the resistor R005 (0.05 Ohm) breaks, replace it.
The voltage of +19 V on the IP plug is normal, when connected to a laptop, the latter “does not see” the IP voltage, but if you move the plug, then everything returns to normal
The first, most probable reason, the cheeks of the +19 V internal contact plate parted inside the socket of the plug, they need to be squeezed, and this is best done with a thin needle. The second reason, violation of the soldering of the +19 V socket inside the laptop, it must be soldered, but this does not apply to IP repair.
There is +19 V voltage on the plug, but the adapter does not hold the load, i.e. at its load, the voltage of +19 V "sags"
The reason for “subsidence” is the loss of capacity (more than 60%) of the electrolytic capacitors C051, C202, C203 (Fig. 3), so their capacity must be checked and replaced if necessary. In general, if a long-running adapter has been repaired, then it is advisable to replace all electrolytic capacitors in it.
Conclusion

Repair masters should remember:
 There is a wide variety of models of +19 V (3.42 A) AC adapters for laptops on the market, and even the same ASUS company has several models of similar adapters, and although almost all of them are made in China and assembled on one-stroke, return-flow principles, but have different schematic diagrams, and therefore their repair requires different approaches. The same article shows the diagram and describes the adapter only models PA-1650-66, laptop ASUS.
 After repair, for the subsequent adjustment of the switchgear, its inclusion in the power supply should be carried out through a 40 ... 60 W ~ 230 V incandescent light bulb connected in series with it, it will protect the adapter from damage in case of possible defects in it.
 Having repaired the adapter from which you removed the white mass that protected the radio elements from vibrations, its functions can be replaced by a silicone sealant, while not all radio elements should be strengthened, but only individual ones, for example, C051 capacitor (120 μF 400 V).
Author: Nikolay Vlasyuk, Kiev
Source: Electrician №1-2 / 2018

Saturday, 14 December 2019

ASUS ZENFONE 2 DISPLAY ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT



Asus Zenfone 2 Display Assembly Replacement
The original screen has the following code stamped on the back of the display: "TL055VDXP34-00".
The first replacement display assembly (did not work) had the following code: "TLD55VVXP31-00".
The second replacement assembly (did work) had the following code: "TL055VDXP34-00".
On that basis, it is suggested  that the first unit I received was an earlier model, and was the incorrect part. I assume that the replacement display assembly must be model TL055VDXP34-00
Remove back cover, sim card(s), and memory card.
NOTE: Remember to remove the one next to the camera (this might be covered by a small sticker).
This cover should remove quite easily - if you can't lift it, count those screws! There should be 14. Again - check that one by the camera that is somewhat hidden.
NOTE These screws are actually the only screws which hold the phone together. Once these are out and the cover is up, the speaker unit will fall away from the phone.
Panel removal – removal of internals
To remove the plastic panel pry it up at one end, and use a sharp blade to separate the double sided tape between the battery and the plastic panel.
NOTE: remove the double sided tape completely when I put it back together. It doesn't seem to really be necessary.
Remove the antenna cable, vibrate motor, and four other connections.
The three above the battery pop up away from the phone.
To disconnect the flat cable at the bottom of the battery you need to first remove the yellow plastic sticker covering it. Next lift the white tab to release the cable, then gently pull the cable out towards the base of the phone.
There are two types of different adhesives holding in the battery that I have encountered. One is double-sided foam tape (easy to remove). The other is some kind of self-amalgamating tape (hard to remove). Please be VERY cautious when removing the battery.
Ii is recommended heating the front side of the screen prior to completing this step (the battery tape is fixed behind the back of the screen).
The adhesive holding down the battery is located close to the side where the antennas are located (right side when looking down). To remove the battery, heat up the battery with a hair-dryer, then gently pull up away from the phone on the opposite site (left side).
NOTE: Be gentle with the small metal tabs on the edge of the battery; these are quite flimsy and will bend if used to force the battery. I removed the double sided tape completely here too, and did not replace it.
To remove the display itself you'll need to apply heat. I had a heat gun - this makes it a lot easier  but you could use a hair drier if you don't have a heat gun. For the sake of comparison - the heat gun took around 30 seconds to heat the display completely, which would take 3-5 minutes with a hair drier.
Once the adhesive behind the screen has been heated up, work your way around the edges of the screen with an opening pick or thin rigid guitar pick. The display will begin to separate from the housing.
Once mostly free, carefully lift the display cable through the hole in the top of the phone body.
Again; you're replacing this cable completely, so don't worry too much about it.
Removal of speaker grill
separate the speaker grill from the original display, clean the adhesive off, and attach it for the new screen. it easier to attach the grill to the actual phone body (rather than the display assembly)
Because of the condition of the adhesive for the screen assembly,  replace the adhesive completely. You could skip this step, but  it is worth cleaning it up.
To remove the existing adhesive  just use the sharp razor blade and worked  peeling it all off.
NOTE: This would be a good opportunity to 'test fit' the new screen (without adhesive) so you can see where the cables need to go. There is one which goes up behind the screen and through the middle of the phone, and another which goes through the top hole. The top one is a strange shape, and needs to go through sideways first.
To attach a new display
3M double sided adhesive tape to go around the edge of the new screen assembly.
NOTE: The replacement adhesive I used was 3M double sided adhesive tape (2mm) - the tape can be purchased  was around from a mobile phone repair supplies store. The tape was too wide and not thick enough, so I doubled it over.
It fit perfectly once I did that. Unless you can find thicker double sided tape which is closer to the original adhesive, I would recommend this approach.
Once the adhesive is all laid out on the phone, put the screen assembly on. start from the top and slide the top cable through the hole, then slowly worked my way down to the bottom.
NOTE: don't press too hard on the adhesive until you are sure that both cables are through to the back, and that the screen is sitting well in the body.
Display cable attach
Looking at the phone from the back, remove the adhesive backing from the display cable and carefully position the cable between the four black markers.
After the new screen is fixed in, start the re-assembly. This is effectively the same as disassembly, but in reverse. There were only a couple of parts that make note of:
a) Keep an eye on the display cable that comes in through the top. It got caught on the double sided tape, and needed to be pulled through.
b) You will need to use a little bit of force to mount the processor unit between the four plastic clips. Be careful when doing this.
c)  completely remove the double sided tape from under the battery and under the plastic case.
d) If you lose any of the yellow plastic cable stickers, you can borrow a piece from your old display assembly.

Wednesday, 10 April 2019

ASUS ZENFONE 2 LASER – DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE – HOW TO REPLACE THE DISPLAY

Asus ZenFone 2 Laser – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the display

Insert a spudger or a your fingernail in the slit in the rear case on the right to separate the phone from the case.
There are a few plastic clips, but it shouldn't be too difficult to remove.
Slide out the SIM card and SD card (if applicable)
Remove the battery from the phone by using a spudger near the bottom.’
Remove 12 Phillips screws from the phone.
There are only 8 pictured, but there are also four at the bottom.
Remove the plastic covering after taking out the screws. It should come out relatively easily.
If the rubber camera piece falls out, put it back in the square where the rear camera sits.
Use a spudger swing open the white "door" and use tweezer to pull out the connector.
Use a spudger to pop off the loudspeaker. It is held to the case by a little adhesive.
Pick up the vibration motor out of its plastic housing.
Do not remove the vibration motor entirely since it is soldered to the logic board.
There are two plastic clips that hold the logic board down. Push one out of the way and grasp the logic board to pull it out.
You want to grab the entire logic board, including the skinny piece that extends down the right to the micro-USB port.
If your new display includes the plastic bezel, you can stop here and begin transferring everything over. If it doesn't, please continue.
Insert your spudger, perhaps an iSesamo, to the top right of the display. You will want to slide it between the glass and the plastic bezel.
There is a good amount of adhesive along the top of the display.
Replace the spudger with a guitar pic to hold its place.
Be careful how you insert the spudger, though, since there is a cable that connects the display to the logic board between the ear speaker and rear camera hole.
Using the spudger (or iSesamo) in a saw-like motion, work your way down the right side of the display.
Make sure you put the tool under the LCD and not in it.
Make sure the tool you're using is under the LCD and not above it. The tool pictured it under it.
The yellow arrow shows where the tool would be if it was above the LCD.
Begin to separate the glass display with LCD from the plastic frame.
There is a lot of adhesive on the top, but there is not much on the sides and on the bottom.
Make sure you slide the top flex cable through the hole before you separate the display (not pictured).
Completely separate the glass display with LCD from the plastic frame.
When installing the new display, prebend the flex cables and make sure they fit where they are supposed it. This will remind you of the iPhone 4/4s screen repair if you have ever done it.

ASUS ZENFONE 2 – DISASSEMBLING – HOW TO REPLACE THE MOTHER BOARD

Asus ZenFone 2 – Disassembling – How to replace the mother board

Detach the battery from under the motherboard. Remove from the device.
Use your fingernail to gently pry off the phone's back cover at the indicated location. While your fingernail is under the back cover slide your finger around the edges of the phone until the cover pops off.
Remove the thirteen black screws and the single silver screw from the back of the phone with a JIS size 00 screwdriver. The black screws are 2.8 mm in length.
The silver screw is 5.5 mm in length.
The black screw next to the camera and the flash is covered by a sticker. This screw can be easily removed as if there were no sticker on top of it. The point of the screwdriver should be able to pierce through the sticker easily.
Use a plastic opening tool to remove the inner phone backing.
The parts of the inner backing held down by two strips of double sided tape can be easily loosened by inserting the plastic opening tool underneath it and gently lifting it up.
Note the position of the speaker unit so you can replace it in the correct place during reassembly.
Take the speaker out of the back of the phone. It should come out easily as soon as the inner back is removed because nothing is holding it down in place anymore.
Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry up both ends of the antenna.
Carefully remove the antenna wire from the plastic keepers along the side. Note their position for reassembly.
The antenna connections can be easily bent out of shape. Be sure to lift from underneath the cable as shown.
Using the plastic opening tool, unlock the ribbon cable attaching the battery to the circuit board by prying up the yellow tab.
Using a plastic opening tool, gently pry the vibration motor from its mount.
Gently remove the circuit board from the phone by gently pulling it away from the bottom of the phone.
Using the plastic opening tool, disconnect the ribbon cables from their connectors by gently prying them up.
Carefully remove the battery pack from the phone using your hand. The battery is glued in placed by a strip of adhesive on the top side so some force may be necessary.
There are fragile tabs on the left and right side of the battery, be careful not to break them off.
Using a plastic opening tool, lift the copper sheet heat strip from the body of the phone by sticking the tool into one of the upper corner of the copper sheet and slowly sliding it along the edges.
Be careful not to rip the copper sheet.
Using a plastic opening tool, unplug the ribbon cable indicated in the picture.
Using a plastic opening tool, disconnect the display cable from the side of the motherboard by carefully sticking the tool underneath the display cable and gently pulling outward.
There are four black plastic retainers, two on each side, that keep the motherboard fix in place. To get the motherboard out, stick a plastic opening tool under one top corner of the motherboard and carefully lift upward using a small amount of force to pop this side of the motherboard out of the plastic retainers.
Be careful not to break the black plastic retainers as these are needed to put the motherboard back in place.
Once one side of the motherboard is out of the black plastic retainers, remove the whole motherboard from the phone.

The motherboard should come out easily once one side of it is freed from the black plastic retainers.

Tuesday, 2 April 2019

ASUS NOTEBOOK - BIOS BEEP CODES - AMI - AWARD - PHOENIX

ASUS NOTEBOOK - BIOS Beep Codes - AMI - AWARD - PHOENIX



ASUS NOTEBOOK - AMI BIOS Beep Codes, AWARD BIOS Beep Codes, Phoenix BIOS Beep Codes
BIOS Beep Codes for AMI
BIOS Beep Codes for AWARD
BIOS Beep Codes for Phoenix

ASUS VW-223 - LCD MONITOR - POWER SUPPLY AND INVERTER SCHEMATIC

ASUS VW-223 - LCD MONITOR - POWER SUPPLY and INVERTER SCHEMATIC

Asus VW-223 LCD monitor_Power Supply & Back-light Inverter _ Circuit Diagram.
Click on the Pictures to Zoom In
SMPS SCHEMATIC
INVERTER SCHEMATIC

HOW TO DISASSEMBLE - ASUS G1S SERIES NOTEBOOK

HOW TO DISASSEMBLE - ASUS G1S Series Notebook

Disassembley Procedure to ASUS G1S Series Notebook - Memory module removal
* Remove the battery module.
* Slide the battery latch 1 to open battery lock
* Slide the battery latch 2 and pull the whole battery away from the system.
* Remove 2 screws (M2*4) and take the CPU door away.
* Remove the Mylar.
* Remove 4 screws (M2*5) aside the CPU. And take away the heat sink.
* Turn the non-removable screw here 180 degrees counter-clockwise to loosen the CPU.
Removing Memory module
* Remove 2 screws on the memory cover and then remove the cover.
* Unlock two latches to pop up the memory at 45 angles then pull out the memory at that angle.

Wednesday, 13 March 2019

HOW TO REMOVE KEYBOARD AND TOP CASE - ASUS G1S SERIES NOTEBOOK

HOW TO REMOVE KEYBOARD and TOP CASE - ASUS G1S SERIES NOTEBOOK

Keyboard Removal Procedure_Asus G1S Series Notebooks.
KEBOARD REMOVAL
* Slide the battery latch 1 to open battery lock
* Slide the battery latch 2 and pull the whole battery away from the system.
* Remove 2 screws (M2*4) and take the CPU door away.
* Remove the Mylar.
* Remove 4 screws (M2*5) aside the CPU. And take away the heat sink.
* Turn the non-removable screw here 180 degrees counter-clockwise to loosen the CPU.
* Squeeze the vacuum handling pump and use it to lift the CPU away.
* Remove 2 screws on the memory cover and then remove the cover.
* Unlock two latches to pop up the memory at 45 angles then pull out the memory at that angle.
Remove 2 screw (M2*5) here, and then turn over the notebook
 Push the 3latches in (F1, F8, Ins) with a pair of tweezers or a single-slotted screwdriver and lift the keyboard plate up.
* Lay the keyboard down over the Top case. *Do not remove the keyboard yet.  The keyboard cable is still attached.
8 Disconnect the FPC connector by a pair of tweezers and then remove the keypad plate.
Removing Keyboard Cable
  1. Use a flexible connector tool to unlock the cable connector on both ends (no. 1).
  2. Carefully pull out the keyboard cable (no. 2) with a pair of tweezers.
  3. Lock the connector (no. 3) again to avoid possible breakage.
Reverse the procedures to re-assemble.
TOP CASE REMOVAL
Remove 6 screws (M2*8; M2*5).
Remove the both hinge covers.
Remove 2 screws in hames cover, and then take the hames cover away.
Remove 1 piece of tape fixing the table and then remove 1 screw here, and disconnect the LCD cable.

Monday, 4 March 2019

ASUS GOOGLE NEXUS 7 – HOW TO DISASSEMBLE NEXUS 7 – HOw TO REMOVE THE CASE – HOW TO REMOVE THE BATTERY – HOW TO REMOVE THE CAMERA - IPOD AND IPDAS REPAIR AND SERVICE

ASUS Google Nexus 7 – How to disassemble Nexus 7 – How to remove the case – How to remove the battery – How to remove the camera - Ipod and Ipdas repair and service


Category: iPad and iPod Repair and Service 

Contents of this article 

  • Removing the LCD and Touch
  • Removing the battery
  • Removing the Power Button 




ASUS Google Nexus 7


DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 
How to remove LCD & Touch Screen Assembly
Using the plastic opening tool, separate the rear panel and front panel that are secured by plastic clips.
Remove the rear panel from the unit.
Using the spudger, locate and unplug the battery connector from its socket. This will disconnect all power to the unit.
Utilizing the spudger, locate and pull up the LCD display data cable ribbon wire from its socket.
The touch screen/front panel ribbon cables are held in place with 2 FPC style connectors that have locking tabs. Unlock the tabs before trying to unplug the ribbon cables.
Locate the tab on the opposite side of where the cable is inserted into the lock. Using the spudger, flip the tab up 90 degrees to release the ribbon cables.
Once the locking tabs are flipped upward 90 degrees, slide the ribbon cables out from their connectors.
Locate and remove the fifteen small Phillips screws (#00) that secure the display assembly and the metal frame of the unit together. On the back of the display assembly is the LCD screen data cable. Transplant the cable from the old part to the replacement part. Separate the display assembly from the metal frame of the unit.
The data cable is also held in place by a locking socket similar to the touch screen/front panel.
Unlock the socket to release the ribbon cable and remove it from the display assembly. Install the cable on your replacement part by reversing the above instruction.
Using the heat gun or blow dryer, warm the plastic frame that surrounds the touch screen/front panel. This will soften the adhesive that binds these two pieces together.
Using the plastic opening tool and the plastic triangle opening tool, separate the LCD + touchscreen/front panel from the plastic frame. To help with the separation, apply more heat to the adhesive while you work around the frame.
The final product is the separated frame that is now ready for the new replacement part. Clean any additional glass or debris that is stuck to the existing adhesive before installing the replacement part.
How to remove Battery
Wedge the spudger between the battery and the front panel assembly to release the adhesive holding the battery secure.
Peel back the copper shielding covering the unit’s motherboard.
Continue the above process across the entire bottom of the battery to release the adhesive, and then remove the battery from the Nexus 7.
Using the spudger, push the speaker plug out of its socket.
How to remove Power Button, Power & Volume Buttons
Locate and remove the two small Phillips screws (#00) that secure the speaker assembly into the unit.
Remove the speaker assembly from the Nexus 7. The power and volume ribbon cable is held in place with a FPC style connector that has a locking tab.
Unlock the tab before trying to unplug the ribbon cable.
The tab on the opposite side of where the cable is inserted is the lock. Using the spudger, flip the tab up 90 degrees to release the ribbon cable.
Once the locking tab is flipped upward 90 degrees, slide the ribbon cable out from its connector.
Using the spudger, maneuver the buttons off of the framework of the unit.
Remove the power and volume buttons from the Nexus 7.
How to remove Front-Facing Camera
Using the spudger, release the FPC style lock from the dock port ribbon cable. Slide the cable out from its connector, peeling it back from the motherboard.
Locate and remove the seven small Phillips screws (#00) that secure the motherboard to the unit’s frame.
Separate the motherboard from the framework of the Nexus 7.
Using the spudger, pry up the front-facing camera to unplug it from its socket. Remove the front-facing camera from the Nexus 7.