LENOVO IDEAPAD 300 – HOW TO DISASSEMBLE – HOW TO TEST THE CHARGER – HOW TO REMOVE THE KEYBOARD – HOW TO REMOVE THE HDD

Lenovo ideapad 300 Disassemble procedure

To verify a symptom, follow the steps below:
1. Turn off the computer.
2. Remove the battery pack.
3. Connect the AC adapter.
4. Make sure that power is supplied when you turn on the computer.
5. Turn off the computer.
6. Disconnect the AC adapter and install the charged battery pack.
7. Make sure that the battery pack supplies power when you turn on the computer.
If you suspect a power problem, see the appropriate one of the following power supply checkouts:
“Checking the AC adapter”
“Checking operational charging”
“Checking the battery pack”
Checking the AC adapter
You are here because the computer fails only when the AC adapter is used.
 If the power-on indicator does not turn on, check the power cord of the AC adapter for correct continuity and installation.
To check the AC adapter, follow the steps below:
1. Unplug the AC adapter cable from the computer.
2. Measure the output voltage at the plug of the AC adapter cable. See the
following figure:

Note: Output voltage for the AC adapter pin No. 2 may differ from the one you are servicing.

3. If the voltage is not correct, replace the AC adapter.
4. If the voltage is acceptable, do the following:
Replace the system board.
Note: Noise from the AC adapter does not always indicate a defect.

Checking operational charging
To check whether the battery charges properly during operation, use a discharged battery pack or a battery pack that has less than 50% of the total power remaining when installed in the computer. Perform operational charging. If the battery status indicator or icon does not light on, remove the battery pack and let it return to room temperature. Reinstall the battery pack. If the charge indicator or icon is still off, replace the battery pack.
If the charge indicator still does not light on, replace the system board. Then reinstall the battery pack. If it is still not charged, go to the next section.
Checking the battery pack
Battery charging does not start until the Power Meter shows that less than 95% of the total power remains; under this condition the battery pack can charge to 100% of its capacity. This protects the battery pack from being overcharged or from having a shortened life.
To check your battery, move your cursor to the Power Meter icon in the icon tray of the Windows taskbar and wait for a moment (but do not click it), and the percentage of battery power remaining is displayed. To get detailed information about the battery, double-click the Power Meter icon.
Note: If the battery pack becomes hot, it may not be able to be charged. Remove it from the computer and leave it at room temperature for a while. After it cools down, reinstall and recharge it.

Disassembling procedure 

Hard disk drive(HDD)
Loosen the screws 1 that secure the compartment cover. Remove the compartment cover 2.

Remove the frame fixing screws 3 .

Detach the hard disk drive connector shown by arrows 2 and 3 .

Take out the hard disk drive secured in a metal frame in the direction shown by arrow 4 .

Keyboard

Remove the screws 1.

Pull to unsnap the keyboard in the direction as shown by the arrows 2 , and then lift it up in the direction shown by arrow 3.

Pull the keyboard connector slot cover upward as shown by arrow 4, detach the keyboard cable from the keyboard connector in the direction shown by arrow 5.

APPLE IPAD WI-FI – HOW TO REPLACE THE SPEAKERS

Apple iPad Wi-Fi – How to replace the Speakers

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during  your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Do  your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.
Insert a metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.
Rotate the spudger away from you to release the tabs along the top edge of the display.
Insert a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly to keep the tabs from snapping back into place.
With one spudger, work your way along the right edge of the iPad.
The front panel is held to the aluminum back by metal clips on the top, bottom, and left sides. The right side has plastic tabs which slide into recesses in the backplate.
Once the clips are released, lift the left side of the front panel up and slide it to the left to clear the tabs from the aluminum backplate.
Lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge.
Do not attempt to remove the display at this time, as it is attached to the rear panel assembly.
In the following steps, you will disconnect the three cables attaching the display assembly to the logic board. The cables are for the following components:
Digitizer
Ambient Light Sensor
Display Data Cable
Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flaps holding the digitizer ribbon cables in their sockets on the logic board.
Be sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets.
Use a plastic opening tool to remove the ambient light sensor connector from its socket by gently prying upward.
Disconnect the display data cable from the main board by flipping up the metal retainer by its black plastic pull tab.
Pull the cable connector away from its socket.
Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.
Remove the display assembly from the rear panel assembly.
Remove the two 4.56 mm T5 Torx screws securing the dock connector cable to the main board.
Remove the single 2.84 mm T5 Torx screw connecting the dock connector cable to the rear case assembly.
Remove the two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws securing the dock connector cable to the rear panel assembly.
Carefully remove the plastic cover over the WiFi/Bluetooth board and dock connector cable using a plastic opening tool.
Pry the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth antennas up off their respective sockets on the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth board.
Remove the dock connector cable from the rear panel assembly.
Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to disconnect the speaker connector from the logic board. Pry up from beneath the wires.
Remove the two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws securing the speaker assembly to the rear panel assembly. If necessary, remove the tape covering the Wi-Fi cables.
De-route the Wi-Fi antenna through its channel in the speaker assembly.
Deroute the speaker cable connector through the left side of the rear panel assembly.
Lift the speaker assembly and push it forward until the ports clear the bottom side of the rear panel assembly.
Remove the speaker assembly out of the rear panel assembly.

APPLE IPAD PRO 12.9 – SPECIFICATION - DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE – BATTERY – COMPONENTS

Apple iPad Pro 12.9 – Specification - Disassembling procedure – Battery – Components

SPECIFICATION 

Apple iPad Pro 12.9 - Specification - Disassembling procedure - Components - Tablets repair and service.

1. Fully laminated, 12.9" Multi-Touch LCD with a 2,732 × 2,048 resolution at 264 ppi and antireflective coating
3rd generation 64-bit A9X chip paired with M9 motion coprocessor Self-balancing, four-speaker audio

2. 8-megapixel 1080p rear-facing iSight camera + 1.2-megapixel 720p front-facing FaceTime HD camera
3. 802.11a/​b/​g/​n/​ac MIMO Wi-Fi + Bluetooth 4.2
4. Touch ID fingerprint sensor + 3- axis gyro + accelerometer + barometer + ambient light sensor
5. 32 GB or 128 GB on-board storage

Peeking along the edge of the iPad, we spot a new accessory port - Apple's Smart Connector - making its debut appearance.
The Smart Connector supports Apple's own Smart Keyboard as well as third-party accessories that transfer power and data, like keyboards and docking stations.
On the bottom edge, two of the four speakers in the highly touted speaker array live on either side of a now-familiar Lightning Connector.

After a little heat-to-heat, with an opening picks and heavy duty suction cup to open the conversation.

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE
The Pro's display is packing the same adhesive as its smaller counterparts - it's tough and there's way too much - but it's still no match for our seasoned teardown hands.
With the adhesive finally out of the way, we get our first glimpse of the Pro's interior.

Now to remove that display

With the logic board situated in the center of the iPad, the display cables connect in the very middle of the device, so you can't even lay the display down while we work.
Instead, you first have to support the weight of the display while removing the screws that secure the display cable bracket.On the back of the display, you will find the following.

2 × Broadcom BCM15900B0
NXP Semiconductors 8416A1 Touch ID Sensor
Parade Technologies DP695 Timing Controller
Apple says this is an iteration of the DP665 LCD timing controller found in the iMac Retina
5K, modified to support the display's variable refresh rate.
Texas Instruments TPS65144 (Likely an iteration of the TPS65143A LCD Bias found in the Air 2)

A logic board relocation isn't the only easily-recognized layout difference between the iPad Pro and previous iPads. While the iPad Air 2's interior real estate was dominated by a proportionately  massive battery, the iPad Pro dedicates a significant amount of room to speaker enclosures.

It appears that the Pro's self-balancing, four-speaker audio comes at the cost of battery capacity. Based on our measurements, the speaker enclosures occupy about half as much space as the battery.
That's space that could have potentially been used for an extra 50% battery capacity. Its sure Apple was very careful setting the balance between battery capacity, weight, and sound quality.

Next,  lend a hand to the FaceTime HD (left) and iSight cameras, which are trapped behind a bracket.While just about everything in this tablet has been billed as bigger and better than previous  devices, these cameras seem to be the same as those found in the iPad Air 2.

For those of you keeping score: the rear-facing camera captures the same 8 MP images and 1080p video at 30 fps, while the front-facing selfie cam shoots identical 1.2 MP images and 720p video.

Here's a first in iPad history: we have to remove the logic board's EMI shielding to remove the logic board itself.

This shielding not only protects the logic board from interference, but also hides cable connectors and secures the logic board to the rear case.

As you continue to mine deeper into this iPad Pro, the next Balrog component you find is the headphone jack.

Just like the 3.5 mm jack in the iPad Air 2, the ribbon cable on this headphone jack harbors one of the Pro's two front-facing ambient light sensors.

Finally, you get to (one of) the highly anticipated self-balancing speaker drivers. Yes, speaker drivers. The whole speaker consists of the driver and its capped resonance chamber. 

Although these speakers share a common design, their function changes depending on the tablet's orientation. Whether in portrait or landscape mode, the Pro always sends higher frequencies to the topmost speakers to produce a more balanced sound.

The speakers are nice, but what makes them really sing are the fancy back volume chambers, machined directly into the unibody enclosure.

Apple claims that this new design provides up to three times more output than previous iPad models.
After removing the carbon fiber caps, you will find the enclosures are filled with foam. On Your way to the logic board, you stop to smell the flowers antennas.

Just like the iPad Air 2, the Pro's two antennas use MIMO technology to provide 802.11ac Wi-Fi speeds of up to 866 Mbps, and LTE speeds of up to 150 Mbps

There are just a few things left standing between us and the logic board.

A bit of deft spudgering frees the remaining speaker connectors, and a flex cable that appears to run beneath the left battery cell to drive the Smart Connector contacts.
At long last we've extracted the logic board - and its (sadly) soldered on Lightning connector

The logic board contains the following 

1. Apple APL1021 A9X 64-bit Processor

2.  SK Hynix H9HCNNNBTUMLNR-NLH 16 Gb (2 GB) LPDDR4 RAM (2 GB × 2 = 4 GB total)
3. Toshiba THGBX5G8D4KLDXG 32 GB NAND Flash
4. InvenSense MP67B 6-axis Gyroscope and Accelerometer Combo
5. NXP 65V10 NFC Controller (also found in the iPhone 6/6 Plus, as well as Nexus 5X and 6P marked NXP 54802)
6. NXP Semiconductors LPC11U37 ARM Cortex-M0 Microcontroller
7. Apple (Cirrus Logic) 338S1213 Audio Codec.

Even more chips on the logic board:

Fresco Logic FL1100SX 2-port USB 3.0 Host Controller
Universal Scientific Industrial 339S00045 Wi-Fi Module
NXP 1610A3 (also found in  iPhone 6s/6s Plus, likely an iteration of the 1610A1 found in the iPad Mini 4)
Dialog Semiconductor 343S00025-A1
Dialog Semiconductor 343S00052-A1
Maxim Integrated MAX98721CEWV (likely an iteration of the MAX98721BEWV found in the iPad Air 2)
Fairchild Semiconductor FDMC 6683 power management chipThese new pull tabs are even cooler than their iPhone counterparts; there's no need to worry about tweezer grip or stubby fingers - these tabs have a handy spudger hole.

You will  have so much fun pulling out these adhesive tabs that you thought you would include a video.

And unlike on iPhones where you only get two or three tabs to tug, the iPad Pro comes with eight.

Thanks to those pull tabs, the battery is freed with ease.

The iPad Pro's 3.77 V battery weighs in at an impressive 10307 mAh.
This prodigious, 38.8 Wh power source offers a 40 percent increase over the 27.62 Wh battery in the iPad Air 2, but just barely edges out the 38.2 Wh battery we found in the Surface Pro 4.The last component You will  try to remove on the road to teardown glory is the Smart Connector port cable.

APPLE IPAD WI-FI – DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE - HOW TO REPLACE THE BATTERY

Apple iPad Wi-Fi – Disassembling procedure - How to replace the battery

BATTERY REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE 

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

Insert a metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.

Rotate the spudger away from you to release the tabs along the top edge of the display.
Insert a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly to keep the tabs from snapping back into place.

With one spudger, work your way along the right edge of the iPad.

The front panel is held to the aluminum back by metal clips on the top, bottom, and left sides. The right side has plastic tabs which slide into recesses in the backplate.
Once the clips are released, lift the left side of the front panel up and slide it to the left to clear the tabs from the aluminum backplate.

Lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge.

Do not attempt to remove the display at this time, as it is attached to the rear panel assembly.

In the following steps, you will disconnect the three cables attaching the display assembly to the logic board. The cables are for the following components:

Digitizer
Ambient Light Sensor
Display Data Cable

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flaps holding the digitizer ribbon cables in their sockets on the logic board.

Be sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets.

Use a plastic opening tool to remove the ambient light sensor connector from its socket by gently prying upward.

Disconnect the display data cable from the main board by flipping up the metal retainer by its black plastic pull tab.

Pull the cable connector away from its socket.
Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.

Remove the display assembly from the rear panel assembly.

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to:

Pry the side button connector up off the logic board from underneath the wires.
Pry the speaker connector up off its socket on the logic board from beneath the speaker wires.
Carefully flip up the ZIF ribbon cable retaining flap on the socket near the headphone jack.
Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Pull the headphone jack ribbon cable toward the left side of the iPad to disconnect it from its socket.

Remove the following screws

securing the logic board to the rear panel assembly.
Two 4.56 mm T5 Torx screws.
Two 3.76 mm T5 Torx screws.

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the dock cable connector straight up off the logic board.

Lift the logic board out of the rear panel assembly.

Remove the two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws securing the speaker assembly to the rear panel assembly.

Remove the single T5 Torx screw securing the middle of the dock cable to the rear panel assembly.

Remove the two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws securing the dock connector cable to the rear case.

Using a plastic opening tool, carefully remove the plastic cover shielding the WiFi/Bluetooth board and dock connector cable. Carefully pry the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth antennas up from their respective sockets on the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth board.

Lift the dock connector cable out of the rear panel assembly.

De-route the speaker cable from the left side of the battery case.

De-route the Wi-Fi antenna through its channel in the speaker assembly.

Lift the speaker assembly and push it forward until the ports clear the bottom side of the lower case.

Remove the speaker assembly from the rear panel assembly.

The battery is held to the rear panel by an excessive amount of adhesive. Proceed with patience and caution.

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the battery up from the the lower case.
Gently continue to enlarge the gap by wiggling the spudger and running it along the right side of the battery.
Continue to pry until the right side of the battery is free from the rear panel.

Insert the flat end of a spudger under the top edge of the battery and continue to separate the adhesive.

Continue doing so until the top of the battery is free from the rear panel.

When there is enough clearance, use your hands to peel the battery off any adhesive still securing it to the rear panel.

Remove the battery from the rear panel.

LENOVO IDEAPAD G700 – G710 – HOW TO TEST THE BATTERY CHARGE – HOW TO TEST THE BATTERY PACK VOLTAGE

Lenovo ideapad G700 – G710 – How to test the Battery charge – How to test the battery pack Voltage

Lenovo ideapad  G700 – G710

To verify a symptom, follow the steps below:
1. Turn off the computer.
2. Remove the battery pack.
3. Connect the AC adapter.
4. Make sure that power is supplied when you turn on the computer.
5. Turn off the computer.
6. Disconnect the AC adapter and install the charged battery pack.
7. Make sure that the battery pack supplies power when you turn on the computer.
If you suspect a power problem, see the appropriate one of the following power supply checkouts:
“Checking the AC adapter”
“Checking operational charging”
“Checking the battery pack”
Checking the AC adapter
You are here because the computer fails only when the AC adapter is used.
If the power-on indicator does not turn on, check the power cord of the AC adapter for correct continuity and installation.
To check the AC adapter, follow the steps below:
1. Unplug the AC adapter cable from the computer.
2. Measure the output voltage at the plug of the AC adapter cable. See the following figure:

Note: Output voltage for the AC adapter pin No. 2 may differ from the one you

are servicing.
3. If the voltage is not correct, replace the AC adapter.
4. If the voltage is acceptable, do the following:
Replace the system board.
Note: Noise from the AC adapter does not always indicate a defect.
Checking operational charging
To check whether the battery charges properly during operation, use a discharged battery pack or a battery pack that has less than 50% of the total power remaining when installed in the computer.

Perform operational charging. If the battery status indicator or icon does not light on, remove the battery pack and let it return to room temperature. Reinstall the battery pack. If the charge indicator or icon is still off, replace the battery pack.
If the charge indicator still does not light on, replace the system board. Then reinstall the battery pack. If it is still not charged, go to the next section.
Checking the battery pack
Battery charging does not start until the Power Meter shows that less than 95% of the total power remains; under this condition the battery pack can charge to 100% of its capacity. This protects the battery pack from being overcharged or from having a shortened life.
To check your battery, move your cursor to the Power Meter icon in the icon tray of the Windows taskbar and wait for a moment (but do not click it), and the percentage of battery power remaining is displayed. To get detailed information about the battery, double-click the Power Meter icon.
Note: If the battery pack becomes hot, it may not be able to be charged. Remove it from the computer and leave it at room temperature for a while. After it cools down, reinstall and recharge it.
To check the battery pack, follow the steps below:
1. Turn off the computer.
2. Remove the battery pack and measure the voltage between battery terminals
1 (+) and 7 (-). See the following figure:

3. If the voltage is less than +11.0 V DC, the battery pack has been discharged.

Note: Recharging will be continued for at least 3 hours, even though the indicator does not light on.
If the voltage is still less than +11.0 V DC after recharging, replace the battery.
4. If the voltage is more than +11.0 V DC, measure the resistance between battery terminals 5 and 7. The resistance must be 4 to 30 KW. If the resistance is not correct, replace the battery pack. If the resistance is correct, replace the system board.

APPLE IPAD 4 CDMA – HOW TO REPLACE THE BATTERY

Apple iPad 4 CDMA – How to replace the battery

Apple iPad 4 CDMA; BATTERY REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE 

Slightly warm up the edges of front panel using hot air gun.

Releasing the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and slide the opening pick around the top left corner.

Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. The digitizer cable is located approximately 2" from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get 2.25" from the bottom of the iPad.

Using the opening pick that is still underneath the bottom edge of the iPad, release the adhesive along the bottom left corner. The bottom of the digitizer cable is only ~1" from the bottom of the iPad. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not sever this cable.

Using one of the opening picks, pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad and grab it with your fingers.

Some of the adhesive along the perimeter of the iPad may have stuck back down again. If this is the case, slide a pick underneath the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still stuck and "cut" the adhesive.

Holding the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, rotate the front glass away from the iPad. Be careful of any adhesive that may still be attached, and use an opening pick to cut any adhesive that may still be holding the front panel down.

Remove the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD to the aluminum frame. The bottom left screw is obscured by the home button ribbon cable connector. Carefully move the home button ribbon cable aside to remove the bottom left screw.

Using a plastic opening tool or a spudger, lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. Rotate the LCD along its left edge and lay it down on top of the front glass panel. Be careful as you move the LCD. The ribbon cable is fragile and may break if it is flexed too much.

Using the tip of a spudger, peel back the piece of tape covering the LCD ribbon cable connector.

Flip up the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. Using your fingers or a pair of tweezers, pull the LCD ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.

Without touching the front of the LCD, lift the LCD off the front panel.

If present, remove the piece of electrical tape covering the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable.

Flip up the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

De-route the home button ribbon cable from its recess in the rear case.

Using the tip of a spudger, peel back the piece of tape that secures the digitizer ribbon cable to the logic board.

Flip up the retaining flap on both of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors.

Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the adhesive underneath the digitizer ribbon cable. Pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its sockets on the logic board.

Peel back the digitizer ribbon cable and use the flat end of a spudger to release the adhesive securing the cable to the rear aluminum case.

Using your fingers, pull the digitizer ribbon cable out of its recess in the aluminum frame.

Remove the front panel from the iPad.

Peel back and remove the piece of electrical tape covering the headphone jack assembly cable connector. Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors securing the headphone jack cable to the logic board.

Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the headphone jack assembly cable, releasing the adhesive securing it to the rear aluminum frame. Pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Peel back and remove the piece of tape covering the SIM board cable ZIF connector. Flip up the retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector. Using the tip of a spudger, pull the SIM board cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Disconnect the following connectors from their respective sockets on the logic board:

Wi-Fi antenna cable
Speaker connector cable.
Dock/Lightning connector cable. There may be a piece of black tape covering this connector. Remove it with tweezers.
Make sure to pry underneath the connector and not the socket itself. Prying on the socket itself may cause severe damage.

Remove the following seven screws securing the logic board to the rear aluminum panel.

Six 2.1mm Phillips #00 One of these screws, at the top of the logic board, is tucked beneath the headphone jack assembly cable. Take care to hold the cable out of the way while removing and replacing this screw.
One 2.5mm Phillips #00

Holding the logic board by the side nearest the dock connector, carefully pull the logic board toward the bottom of the iPad.

Flip the logic board over, minding any cables that may get caught. Using the tip of a spudger, remove the three antenna connectors from their sockets on the logic board.

The battery is very firmly glued to the aluminum frame using copious amounts of strong adhesive. In the following steps, you will be removing the adhesive from underneath the battery 2 inches at a time. This will prevent too much stress being put on the battery. Be very careful to not puncture or damage the battery as you remove it from the iPad. Batteries contain toxic chemicals that can be harmful if ingested or inhaled.

Insert the flat end of a metal spudger underneath the battery near the bottom of the iPad. Slide the metal spudger approximately 1.5" underneath the battery, releasing the adhesive. The adhesive is very strong. Loosening the adhesive requires considerable force. Work slowly and carefully, making sure that the metal spudger does not slip.

In the same manner as described above, slide the spudger ~2" underneath the other adhesive strips.

Carefully slide the metal spudger underneath the battery connector, releasing the adhesive securing it in place.

Continue releasing the adhesive near the top of the battery.

Starting where the last pass left off, insert the metal spudger another two inches underneath the battery. As you push the spudger further underneath the battery, keep it as flat against the rear case as possible to avoid bending the battery. Repeat this process for the remaining adhesive strips.

In the same manner as previously described, continue loosening the adhesive on all the strips to a depth of ~4".

For the last pass, push the metal spudger all the way to the right edge of the iPad. Continue to do this for all of the adhesive strips.

Make sure that all the adhesive glue has been loosed from the battery.

Gently lift the left side of the battery up, rotating it toward the right side of the iPad. Use the metal spudger to loosen any adhesive that may still be holding the battery in place
Remove the battery from the iPad.

APPLE IPAD TOUCH 5TH GENERATION: DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE

Apple iPad Touch 5th generation: disassembling procedure

Apple iPad Touch 5th generation – Disassembling procedure – How to remove the case – How to remove the battery – How to remove the display

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPod's display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair

The bottom of the screen (near the home button) is held in place with strong adhesive.

Use a heat gun or hair dryer (low setting) to soften the adhesive.
As you start prying the screen off in the next stages, you may need to apply more heat to keep the glue warm and flexible.

Center the suction cup on the lower section of the glass, with its edge centered over the home button.

Press in firmly and make sure the cup has a strong seal.

Hold the iPod firmly against a table or bench.

Place your thumb and index finger over the lower corners of the display to stop the display from opening too far when the adhesive breaks.

Lift the suction cup up and back toward the top of the iPod. Be patient, and pull with firm, constant force until the adhesive breaks and the display comes up from the rear case.

It may be necessary to use a heat gun to soften the adhesive (especially in cooler climates). If you can pry the screen apart, and the adhesive is still sticking and pulling apart like cheese topping on a pizza, you can slide a thin razor blade in and gently cut the adhesive.

After the display begins to lift from the rear case, be careful not to lift more than about an inch a fragile plastic frame still connects the display assembly to the rear case.

In the following steps, you will be loosening and freeing the plastic frame that surrounds the screen. It is connected to the rear case with several clips.

Starting at the top right of the device, insert a plastic opening tool into the gap between the plastic frame and the aluminum rear case.

Slide the tool down this crack, loosening the frame from the case.

Insert the plastic opening tool between the frame and the rear case behind the first clip. Rock the tool sideways, to spread the gap behind the clip and separate it from the rear case.

This may not free the clip initially, but repeating the procedure for each clip will begin to loosen the piece.

Repeat the procedure with the next two clips on this side.

You may have to go back and forth between the clips to free all of them. Take your time and be careful and patient, as the plastic frame is quite fragile.

Moving on to the left side of the device, insert a plastic opening tool into the gap between the plastic frame and the aluminum rear case near the top.

Slide the tool down this crack, loosening the frame from the case.

Insert the plastic opening tool between the frame and the rear case behind the first clip on the left side.

Rock the tool sideways, to spread the gap behind the clip and separate it from the rear
case.

Repeat the procedure with the next two clips on this side.

Insert the plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and aluminum rear case behind the second clip.
Rock the tool sideways, loosening the clip from the case.

Using the same procedure, loosen the last clip securing the plastic frame to the rear case.

Insert the plastic opening tool between the display assembly and the rear case near the top of the iPod.

Slightly twist the opening tool to pry the front panel up from the rear case.
Separate the display assembly from the iPod.
Do not try to completely remove the front panel, as it is still connected by several cables.

Gently fold the display over away from the rest of the iPod, taking care not to disconnect or break any of the ribbon cables. Set the two halves flat on a table or bench.

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button switch up from the LCD plate.
It may be necessary to use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive on the back of the home button. Always use a low heat setting.
Do not attempt to remove the home button switch, as it is connected to components below the LCD plate.

Remove the following screws securing the LCD plate to the rear case:

Two 1.2 mm #00 Phillips screws
Nine 1.6 mm #00 Phillips screws
One 2.3 mm #00 Phillips screw

Lift up and remove the LCD plate from the iPod.

Remove three 1.6 mm #00 Phillips screws securing the logic board to the rear case.

There are two strips of adhesive keeping the battery in place.

Turn the iPod over and heat the
BACK of the aluminium iPod case. Do not heat the battery.
The aluminium case does not have to be hot; you should always be able to touch heated parts with your fingers at all times without it being uncomfortable.

There are three notches on either side of the battery. In the next few steps, you will be using these notches to gradually pry the battery up from the rear case.

The battery is secured with large amounts of adhesive, so you'll need to go slowly and carefully to avoid puncturing or creasing the battery.
Insert a plastic opening tool into the top right notch and gently pry up on the battery.
Do not attempt to pry up the entire battery at this point; you just want to start to loosen the adhesive at each of the prying points, in turn.

Continue with the lower right notch. Insert the plastic opening tool into the notch, and gently pry up on the side of the battery.

Continue prying the battery up from the bottom.
When prying along the bottom, be careful not to press down too hard against the speaker or headphone jack.

Pry along the left side as well.

You may need to move back and forth between the sides and bottom of the battery, prying a small amount at a time until the battery is entirely free from the adhesive.

Once all of the adhesive is loosened, lift the battery up from the bottom and swing it out over the left side of the rear case.

Be sure not to yank it out, as it is soldered to the logic board.
Flip the battery over to straighten its cable and set it down.

Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the front-facing camera out of its socket in the display assembly.

Use the tip of a spudger to peel back a small piece of tape covering a screw on the side of the headphone jack.

Remove the following screws securing the headphone jack, Lightning connector, and speaker.

Three 2.6 mm #00 Phillips screws
Two 2.0 mm #00 Phillips screws

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the speaker up from the rear case.

Do not try to remove the speaker, as it is soldered to the Lightning connector assembly.

Grasping the large ribbon cable, gently pull the Lightning connector assembly out of the bottom of the case.

Flip the entire assembly over, exposing the back of the logic board.

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable from the logic board.

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display cable from its socket in the logic board.

Flip the Lightning connector/logic board assembly back over to expose the top of the logic board.

The display cable is lightly adhered to the top of the logic board.
Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the display cable up from the logic board.

Remove the display assembly from the iPod.