REPAIRING AND NOT THROWING AWAY

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

In Brief: On this site you will find pictures and technical information about Service Modes, Circuit Diagrams, Firmware Update procedure, Disassemble procedure, Universal remote control set-up codes, Troubleshooting and more....

If you go into the profession, you will obtain or have access to a variety of tech tips databases HERE IT IS Master Electronics Repair !.

These are an excellent investment where the saying: 'time-is-money' rules. However, to learn, you need to develop a general troubleshooting approach - a logical, methodical, method of narrowing down the problem. A tech tip database might suggest: 'Replace C536' for a particular symptom. This is good advice for a specific problem on one model. However, what you really want to understand is why C536 was the cause and how to pinpoint the culprit in general even if you don't have a service manual or schematic and your tech tip database doesn't have an entry for your sick TV or VCR.

While schematics are nice, you won't always have them or be able to justify the purchase for a one-of repair. Therefore, in many cases, some reverse engineering will be necessary. The time will be well spent since even if you don't see another instance of the same model in your entire lifetime, you will have learned something in the process that can be applied to other equipment problems.
As always, when you get stuck, checking out a tech-tips database may quickly identify your problem and solution.In that case, you can greatly simplify your troubleshooting or at least confirm a diagnosis before ordering parts.

Happy repairing!
Today, the West is headed for the abyss. For the ultimate fate of our disposable society is for that society itself to be disposed of. And this will happen sooner, rather than later.

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..............The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of todays funny gadgets low price has faded from memory........ . . . . . .....
Don't forget the past, the end of the world is upon us! Pretty soon it will all turn to dust!

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Showing posts with label BOSE. Show all posts
Showing posts with label BOSE. Show all posts

Friday, 2 October 2020

BOSE 1201, 1401 SERIES I AND II CAR AUDIO CIRCUIT DESCRIPTIONS SERVICE TEST MODE - WIRING ELECTRICAL DIAGRAM

Direct Reflecting® Car Stereo Speaker System

Bose 1401 four channels:  100 Watts continuous into 0.45 Ohms

Bose 1201 two channels: 50 Watts continuous into 0.45 Ohms

Individual Amplifiers: 25 Watts continuous into 0.45 Ohms resistive loads from 40 Hz to 17 kHz with less than .09% THD with 14.4 Volts DC.

Power Supply Tolerance: Will operate without noticeable performance defects between 10.5 and 16.5 Volts DC.

Speakers:

4 1/2" Driver, 6" x 9" Driver

2 or 4 full range drivers 1201 or 1401 II

Impedance:  0.45 Ohms

Maximum Power: 25 Watts (1201 and 1401 II has short circuit protection)


The following description is based on the 1401 II. The 1401 I is very similar with the exception of the short circuit protection, remote turn-on circuitry, compressor, and any reference to the use of the 6"x 9" speakers.

The Bose® 1401™ II Booster-Equalizer incorporates unique circuitry that is different from other auto amplifier designs. We ask that you take the time to read this technical description before attempting to service the 1401, and 1401 series II, as it will aid you in the repair process.

The Booster-Equalizer contains a preamplifier, equalizer, and short circuit protection circuitry, remote turn on-off circuitry, Spatial Control™, and two or four power amplifiers, each delivering 25 watts of power into 0.45 ohms.

The 1401, and 1401 II are compatible with all front end radio-tape or tape player auto units having their own amplifier, or preamplifier outputs. Low level inputs connect to the output of a front end unit having preamplifier outputs. The booster will produce full output with 250 mVrms applied to the low level input connections. If the front end has only speaker outputs, the high level inputs are utilized. The input signal is reduced by the 100k resistors R52, 53, 72, 73 and then fed to the same differential amplifier as the low level input signal. The high level inputs produce full output with a 2.75 volt input signal.

A differential amplifier U51 is used at the input to minimize sensitivity to alternator whine and other electrical noise. The differential amplifier feeds the equalizer. The equalization curve of the booster has been designed specifically for the drivers supplied with the units.

The first section of the equalizer adjusts the mid frequencies. The signals are then fed to the network driven by U52, 53, (pins 5 and 10) which provides both high frequency equalization and the bass slide control. This control provides boost or cut by approximately 8 dB centered at 170 Hz.

The signal then takes two paths. One is the low frequency path. The signals from the left and right channels are summed and fed through a low pass filter. This signal is fed to U53 (pin 12), the bass equalization circuitry. The output of the U53 (pin 14), becomes a common bass buss, which feeds the low frequency information to all four power amplifiers.

The second signal path is for the mid and high frequencies, which pass thorough the Spatial Control™. The slider is a front to back balance control for the mid and high frequencies. This is not a fader control. The slider maintains constant and total acoustic power for any spatial setting. The spatial control allows you to shift the mid and high frequency sound image between the front and rear speakers, with the sum of the power delivered to the front or rear speakers remaining the same. This allows great flexibility in compensating for the acoustic properties of various autos, vans, and trucks in which the system may be used. Also a switchable low pass filter, S1 (located on the rear of the unit) is in the second signal path. This control only affects the signal going to the rear speakers. In position I, the high frequencies going to the rear speakers are cut 6 dB-octave, starting at 5 kHz. In position II, the filter is disconnected. This control compensates for different speaker placement. For example: if the rear speakers were mounted higher than the front speakers, the high frequencies from the rear speakers might sound too bright relative to the front speakers, thus the low pass filter attenuating circuit would then be used.

The 1401™II has four separate power amplifiers. Each power amplifier receives a summed signal from the common bass buss, and the mid and high frequency information from the Spatial Control™ slider. Using all four speakers to reproduce the bass frequencies provides full rich bass response while directing the other frequencies to the appropriate, left-right-front-back speakers, to maintain proper spatial characteristics.

Each power amplifier uses a high slew rate operational amplifier (U11 left front, U21 left rear, U31 right front, U41 right rear). These ICs are the low level stage for each of the power amplifiers. Pins 4 and 7 of the ICs provide out-of-phase signals to the driver transistors. The voltage across the 47 Ohm resistor attached to pin 6 of each IC is proportional to the current flowing into the driver transistors.

The bias current of the driver transistors is device dependent. The emitter resistor voltage (R11, 12, 21, 22, 31, 32, 41, 42) divided by .47 Ohms will give you the bias current of that transistor. The bias current should typically be 20-60 mA, with a maximum of 140 mA.

The output transistors are unbiased. Therefore, the output waveform will show crossover distortion. "Glitches" will be visible at higher frequencies when driving a load. The distortion from these "glitches" is well above the range of human hearing.

Power is supplied to the 1401 from the vehicle's fuse block. This is fed directly to the output transistors. A network composed of R111 and C91 filters the 14.4 Vdc for all of the ICs in the unit. An 18V zener diode (D55) provides over voltage switching transient and load dump protection. U53, C92, R112, and R113 create a stable voltage that is 1/2 Vcc which is used as a "0" Volt reference for the audio signal.

The turn on-off transient eliminator circuit works in conjunction with the remote turn on and over current protection circuit. When power is applied to the 1401, the output of U52 goes high, which turns on Q63. This turns on Q15, 16, 25, 26 for the left amplifiers and Q35, 36, 45, 46 for the right amplifiers which prevents the driver and power transistors of each amplifier from turning on. This eliminates a turn on "thump" as the amplifiers stabilize during power up. U52's output will go low after approximately three seconds, turning off Q63, which turns off Q15, 16, 25, 26, 35, 36, 45, 46 which, in turn enables the driver and output transistors in the circuit to operate.

The turn off detector is Q51 and Q52. When the 1401 is turned off, Q51 turns off, turning on Q52. This makes the gate of SCR Q62 go high, turning on the SCR. This pulls the voltage of pin 6, U52 low, causing U52 to go high, turning on the transistors Q15, 16, 25, 26, 35, 36, 45, 46, which shuts off the driver and output transistors, eliminating any transients. In addition, whenQ52 goes high, it turns on Q61 And Q80 which discharges C53, the signal return capacitor through R142.

The remote turn on detector is Q53. When voltage is applied to the remote sense line, Q53 shuts off. This makes the gate of SCR Q62 go low, turning off the SCR. This allows C52 to charge, which brings the voltage of pin 6, U52 up, causing U52 to go low, turning on the driver and output transistors. Also, when Q53 shuts off, Q61 and Q80 shuts off, allowing C53 to charge.

The over-current protection network is Q54 and Q55. If the unit draws substantial current across either or both R137 or R139 the voltage approaches .6 volts, creating the same chain of events as previously mentioned in the turn off section. The over-current protection circuit will attempt to recycle a turn on approximately every three seconds. If the over-current conditions are still present, the unit will not turn on.

The 1401™ series I has a compressor circuit. This circuit contains two sections. IC U53, (pins 5, 6, and 7) is the clipping detector, and Z50, is used as a variable attenuator. The compressor affects only the common bass buss signal. Pin 6 of each of the differential amplifiers is tied to an overload signal buss, which is fed to Pin 5 of IC U53. Pins 5, 6, and 7 of IC U53 comprise a voltage comparator network. The voltage at Pin 6 of U53 is the threshold voltage of the comparator. When the voltage at Pin 5 goes negative with respect to Pin 6, due to any amplifier being over driven, the voltage of pin 7 will go negative, with respect to speaker reference (SR).  When the voltage of pin 7 goes negative, it turns on the LED, which is inside Z50, its resistance goes down, which attenuates the bass signal. In effect, if any amplifier begins to be over driven, the compressor circuitry is activated and will reduce the amount of common bass signal to the power amplifiers, thereby reducing the bass gain, preventing the amplifier from clipping, reducing potential distortion.

1201 Technical Description.

The Bose® 1201 Booster-Equalizer is a two speaker system similar to the 1401™ II. In general, the same troubleshooting rules apply to both units. The RCA and high level inputs are the same, as well as the connectors for the power and speakers. The 1201 also has mute and short circuit protection circuits.

The 1201 has two amplifiers instead of four. The system has switchable equalization for the 4.5" driver or the new 6"x 9" speakers. The equalizer attenuates frequencies above 1kHz in the 4.5" position and turns off the bass equalization in the 6"x 9" position. The 1201 does not have Spatial Control™ or frequency controls.

A new feature for the 1201 is an input level control that provides the ability to interface with a variety of front ends. The input level control adjusts the amp gain for a power sensitivity of approximately 100-1000 mV (low level) and 1-10 Volts (high level) to produce 25 Watts of power per channel at full output at 1 kHz.

Also new in the 1201 amplifier is a compressor circuit. The compressor monitors the power amplifiers and reduces the input gain when the power amplifier begins to clip. Comprised of 1/2 of U1 and U3, U3 acts as a current controlled resistor across R109/209 whose equivalent resistance is inversely proportional to the current into pins 3/6. With no control current, U3 looks like an open circuit. As the current into pins 3/6 increases, the net resistance of R109/209 goes down and reduces the compressor amp gain. Control current is provided by detector-driver circuit of Q601-603. The outputs of the power amps (U4, U5, pin 6) pulses when the amp begins to clip. These pulses are detected by Q602, 603 and is filtered. The DC voltage is converted to control currents by R302, 402.

The mute circuit is different than in the 1401 II. It contains two comparators that serve as voltage and time delay sensors. U6, pins 1-3, senses the ANT SW control voltage and goes low if the ANT SW input or supply falls below 9-10 Volts. When U6, pin 1, goes high, C510 charges through R516. When C510's voltage exceeds that of U6, pin 6, (after approximately 2.5 seconds) pin 7 goes high and unmutes the amplifier. If U6, pin 1 goes low, C510 discharges immediately through D501 and mutes the amplifier. During short-circuit conditions, Q503 turns on and pulls U6, pin 2, high causing pin 1 to go low, starting the mute cycle.

Bose 1401, Bose 1401II block diagram for reference


TEST PROCEDURES.

[Before connecting the Booster-Equalizer to the power supply, test the zener diode for a possible short by checking the resistance between the power and ground wires. Set your Ohmmeter to the x1 scale. Connect the leads of the meter to the red and black wires. In one direction (red to red, black to black) you should get a reading of infinity. In the other direction (red to black and black to red) you should get about .6 ohms for a reading.]

[The Booster-Equalizer has four separate amplifiers, two of which are 180º out of phase with the remaining two amplifiers. Also, the outputs are returned through the Booster-Equalizer's Speaker Reference. It is important to connect the unit as directed to prevent damage to the 1401 series I, or activation of the current protection circuits in the 1401 series II, and 1201. DO NOT connect speaker returns to ground.]

1401 II and1201 Power Wire Connection.

Red wire is B+, Black wire is ground, Purple wire is Switched B+, and the Brown wire is Audio ground.

1401 I Speaker Wire Connection

Left Front

1. Output: White-Yellow

2. Return: White-Blue

Right Front

1. Output: White-Green

2. Return: White-Orange

Left Rear

1. Output: Gray-Blue

2. Return: Gray-Yellow

Right Rear

1. Output: Gray-Orange

2. Return: Gray-Green

1401 II and 1201 Speaker Wire Connection

Left Front

1. Output: Yellow

2. Return: White

Right Front

1. Output: Green

2. Return: Orange

Left Rear

1. Output: Blue

2. Return: Yellow

Right Rear

1. Output: Orange

2. Return: Gray

Connection diagram.

Test procedure.

The Booster-Equalizer should be operated and tested using a 100 Ohm load for each of the speaker outputs until the unit functions properly. Center the bass control and Spatial Control.

Initial Turn-On Test.

Connect the speaker to 100 Ohm loads and connect the power harness to a power supply at 13.8 Vdc.

Turn on the power supply and check the current draw. If the unit is drawing more than 250 milliampere, shut off the power supply and check the outputs for shorts.

Note: On the 1401 II and the 1201 if the unit shuts off and then tries to turn on approximately every 3 seconds the outputs could be shorted.

Apply a 125 mV 1 kHz signal to the low level inputs and adjust the Spatial Control to electronically center (the front and rear output should be the same amplitude).

Low Frequency Response Test.

Apply a 35 mV 1 kHz signal to the low level inputs.

Reference a dB meter to the output of the Booster/Equalizer.

Apply a 35 mV 100 Hz signal and slide the low frequency control to the minus (-) side. There should be a -6.5 dB ±1 dB decrease in output.

Center the control. Reference a dB meter to the output of the Booster/Equalizer.

Slide the control to the plus (+) side.  There should be a +6.5 dB ±1 dB increase in output.

Spatial Control, High Frequency, and Rear Switch Control Test.

Apply a 35 mV 15 kHz signal to the low level inputs.

Reference a dB meter to the output of the Booster-Equalizer.

Slide the spatial control to maximum right (front speakers). There should be a +1 dB ±1 dB increase in output and a -30 dB cut to the rear speakers.

Slide the spatial control to maximum left (rear speakers). There should be a +1 dB ±1 dB increase in output and a -30 dB cut to the front speakers.

Center the spatial control and switch the rear high frequency switch to position I.  The rear output should be -10.5 dB ±1 dB from the front output.

Return the rear high frequency switch to position II.

Power and Distortion Test.

Connect the speaker outputs to 0 .45 Ohm loads.

Apply a 1 kHz signal to the low level inputs and increase the input until the output signal just begins to clip. The output reading should be approximately 3.36 Volts.

Decrease the applied signal until the output reads 3.20 Volts. The distortion should be .09% for all four channels.

Note: The length and size of the wiring and the connection to the load is very important. Make sure the connections are as tight as possible to achieve correct distortion readings.

High Level Input Test.

Apply a 1 kHz signal to the high level inputs.  Increase the input level until the output just begins to clip. The signal input reading should be approximately 2.75 Volts.

Protection Circuit Test.

Note: This test is for the 1401 II and the 1201 only. Signal is applied to the low level input.

Apply a 1 kHz signal so the output of the unit is approximately 1.50 Volts.

Short anyone of the outputs to ground.  The unit should immediately shut down and then try to turn on every three seconds.

Remove the short. The unit should turn on and operate properly without damage to the channel that had been shorted.

PCB identification.

Sunday, 15 December 2019

BOSE LIFESTYLE - T10 - HOME THEATER SYSTEM - DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE – STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTION


1. Top Cover Assembly Removal
1.1 Remove the 6 screws located on the bottom of the console as indicated.
1.2 Lift off the top cover assembly.
Important Note: When replacing the top cover, press down on the top cover before tightening the screws. Do this to avoid the screw having to take up the pressure of the cover shield against the base shield. Failure to do so could result in a stripped screw.

2. AUX/Tuner PCB Removal
2.1 Remove the two screws indicated.
2.2 Remove the four cables from the AUX PCB connectors.
2.3 Remove the two screws securing the J700 connector block to the rear panel.
2.4 Lift up the AUX PCB.
Important Note: When replacing the AUX PCB, align the J700 connector block to the rear panel before securing it with the screws. Do not allow the rear panel to touch the AM/FM connector shields. Center the PCB screw holes to the screws bosses in the base.

3. Zone 2 PCB Removal (AV35 Only)
3.2 Remove the three screws securing the RCA block to the rear panel.
3.3 Remove the three screws securing the Zone 2 PCB bracket to the rear panel.
3.4 Lift out the Zone 2 PCB.


4. Main PCB Removal
4.1 Perform procedure 3 first
4.2 Remove the three screws indicated.
4.3 Remove the five screws securing the Main PCB connector blocks to the rear panel.
4.4 Lift out the Zone 2 PCB bracket.
4.5 Disconnect the three cables from the Main PCB.
4.6 Release the two latches indicated.
4.7 Lift out the Main PCB
Important Note: When replacing the Main PCB, align the connector blocks to the rear panel before securing it with the screws. Align the PCB to the alignment holes provided in the base.

5. IR Blaster PCB Removal
5.1 Remove the cable from the IR blaster PCB.
5.1 Press on the latch indicated and lift up on the
right side of the PCB.


6. Front AV PCB Removal
6.1 Remove the two screws indicated.
6.2 Remove the cable from the AV PCB.
6.3 While pressing on the two latches toward the rear of the PCB, lift up on the rear of the PCB.

7. Button PCB Removal
7.1 Remove the two screws indicated.
7.2 Remove the
7.3 Lift up on the right side of the button assembly and rotate toward the left to release the latches.

8. End Cap Removal
8.1 The latches on the end cap need to be released from the console base. See Figure.

8.2 Turn the console upside down.
8.3 Press a flat blade screwdriver in-between the console base and the front of the end cap. Once the screwdriver is between the end cap and base, rotate the screw driver downward to loosen the front end cap latch. See Figure .



8.4 Press a flat blade screwdriver in-between the console base and the rear of the end cap. Once the screwdriver is between the end cap and base, rotate the screw driver downward to loosen the rear end cap latch. See Figure .

8.5 Once the both ends of the end cap are released, slide off the end cap.
9. End Cap Replacement
9.1 With the console right side up, slide the end cap onto the side of the base. Be sure to engage all end cap latches into the base.
9.2 Press downward on the end cap until the flat edges of the end cap alignment locator is flush with the bass.

9. Door Assembly Removal
9.1 Remove the three screws from the right hinge assembly as indicted. Lift off the hinge assembly.
9.2 Remove the two screws from the left hinge assembly as indicated.
9.3 Open the door slightly. Slide the left hinge assembly toward the right to disengage it from the door hinge pin, leaving the spring in the hinge assembly.
9.4 Slide off the striker door clip.
9.5 Slide out the door.

Wednesday, 10 April 2019

BOSE AUDIO - BOSE SOUNDLINK MINI – DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE – TEST PROCEDURE

Bose Audio - Bose soundlink Mini – Disassembling procedure – Test procedure

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 
1. Grille Removal
Note: The grille is held in place by Pressure Sensitive Adhesive (PSA) strips located in the center of the grille  and also by two tabs on either end of the grille .
To avoid destroying the grill during the removal process, brush alcohol over the PSA stripsbefore attempting to remove it.
Important Note: To avoid damage to the cabinet, do not use the cabinet as a pry point to remove the grille.
1.1 At the location shown in Figure, insert the tip of a plastic tool, such as a spudger, between the grille and its rubber gasket.
Note: The location shown is between the PSA and grille tabs securing the grille.
1.2 Rotate the spudger away from you while prying against the rubber gasket.
1.3 Once a portion of the grille is released, grasp the grille and pull it across the unit lengthwise to release the PSA.
2. Battery Removal
The Battery in SoundLink Mini II is hardwired to the Boost PCB. See figure . Place the product in ship mode prior to disassembly.
The rear grille, I/O PCB, rear baffle and Amp PCB must be removed before the Battery and Boost board can be removed. Use the following procedure to remove the battery and the boost board in order to unsolder the cable and replace the battery.
2.1 Remove the foot by pulling it away from the battery.
2.2 Remove the four screws securing the battery to the cabinet.
2.3 Remove the four screws securing the I/O PCB to the cabinet as shown in.
2.4 Carefully peel away the foam tape securing the FFC cable to the I/O PCB connector. This foam will be damaged when removing, plan to replace the foam with part number 373978-0010.
Note: When handling the I/O board, do not to touch the microphone filter with fingers. Gloves should be used to avoid contact with the filter..
The replacement I/O PCB does not include the microphone filter. Install new part (744588-0010) when replacing the I/O PCB.
2.4 Move the I/O PCB to the right until the AUX connector clears the housing and then lift the top edge of the PCB until the USB connector clears the housing.
2.5 Partially lift out the I/O PCB. Lift up the connector locking tab to release the FFC cable from the I/O PCB connector.
2.6 Pull the battery cover out of the retaining slot in the cabinet.
2.7 Remove the four screws securing the rear baffle.
2.8 Lift the battery up and away from the enclosure. The battery will still be connected to the boost board but cannot be fully removed until the end of the procedure.
2.9 As shown in Figure , insert your thumb into the battery cavity and press upward on the rear baffle.
2.10 Hold the FFC against the transducer through the battery opening while rocking the baffle back/ forth as you slide it out of the cabinet. The FFC will slide out of the slot in the rear baffle while extracting the baffle in this way.
Note: Placing strain on the FFC Main PCB connector can damage the connector if the FFC is not held.
2.11 Using your thumb, push up on the Amp PCB as shown in Figure to release it from the boost board.
2.12 Disconnect the speaker wire harness from the AMP PCB.
2.13 Release the Boost board from the main board connector by pushing upward, left.
2.14 Once the connector is unplugged, pull outward on the boost board to release it from the slot, right.
2.15 Lift the battery away from the enclosure by twisting the boost board to allow it to exit from the assembly along with the battery.
2.16 Once the battery and boost board are removed from the enclosure, the battery cable can be unsol dered and a new battery can be installed. Figure  shows the solder connections for the battery cable.
3. Driver Removal
3.1 Remove the eight screws securing the front baffle.
3.2 As shown in Figure, insert your thumb into the back of the unit or the battery cavity and push the front baffle out of the cabinet.
3.3 Lift the left driver out of the cabinet. With a plastic tool, such as a spudger, release the speaker harness cable from the AMP PCB
4. Main PCB Removal
Important Note! To avoid damage to the switches on the Main PCB, the front and rear baffle should be removed. The Main PCB is held in place by a shelf on the front and rear baffles which restricts the ability of the Main PCB to be rotated downward enough for the switches to clear the cabinet holes.
4.1 Perform procedures 1, 2, 3.1 and 3.2 to gain access to the Main board.
4.1 Detach the speaker wire from the wire clip on the main board.
4.1 lift upward on the main board and remove.
5. Lens Removal
5.1 Perform procedures 1, 2, 3 and 4 to gain access to the lens
5.2 The Lens is held in place by Pressure Sensitive Adhesive (PSA). Insert your thumbs into the cabinet and press upward on the Lens to release the PSA.
6. Button Pad Removal
5.1 Perform procedures 1, 2, 3 and 4 to gain access to the button pad.
6.1 Insert a plastic tool, such as a spudger, under the corner of the button pad and lift it up.
6.2 Peel up the button pad.
TEST PROCEDURES
Equipment Required
Computer w/USB port
PolyComm Software
USB TYPE A to micro B cable
Audio frequency generator
Cell Phone with Bluetooth Capabilities
USB current meter
Prior to the functional test, the integrity of the external flash IC holding all non English languages should be checked.
A. Factory default the product by pressing the power button for 10 seconds until the LED’s turn off. Once the button is released, voice prompts will ask you to select the language.
B. Scroll through the different languages by pressing the volume plus button. Then select a language.
The integrity of the flash IC is confirmed if the different languages can be heard.
1. Test Setup
1.1 Turn on the SoundLink Mini II by pressing the power button.
1.2 Run the Polycomm software and connect the USB cable from the computer to the SoundLink Mini II. Then select TAP mode.
2. Left/Right Driver/ AUX Input Test
2.1 Connect a signal generator to the left AUX input of the Bose Mini II Soundlink.
2.2 Adjust the signal generator to 50mVrms, 800Hz.
2.3 Issue TAP command VO 86 to set the volume to 60 (range is 0 to 99)
2.4 Confirm audio plays from the left driver.
2.5 Connect the signal generator to the right AUX input of the Soundlink Color.
2.6 Confirm audio plays from the right driver.
3. Air Leak Test/ AUX Input Test
3.1 Connect a signal generator the AUX input of the SoundLink Mini II.
3.2 Adjust the signal generator to 1.00Vrms, 60Hz.
3.3 Issue TAP command VO 86 to set the volume to 99 (range is 0 to 99)
3.4 Listen for air leaks around the cabinet edges and keypad.
PASS if no audible air leaks can be heard at a distance of less than 1 ft (0.3M).
FAIL if any audible air leaks can be heard at a distance of less than 1 ft (0.3M).
4. Frequency Sweep Test/ AUX Input Test
4.1 Connect a signal generator to the AUX input of the SoundLink Mini II.
4.2 Adjust the signal generator to 1.0Vrms, 50Hz.
4.3 Issue TAP command VO 99 to set the volume to 99 (range is 0 to 99)
4.4 Sweep the signal generator from 50Hz to 2kHz.
4.5 Listen for any extraneous noises such as buzzes, rattles, ticks, or distortion. PASS if no noise can be heard at a distance of less than 1ft (0.3M).
FAIL if any noise can be heard at a distance less than 1ft (0.3M).
5. Bluetooth Functional Test
For this test, use a Cell phone with A2DP Bluetooth, such as an iPhone (Advanced Audio Distribution Profile)
Pair SoundLink Mini II and Bluetooth device.
Note: Make sure to remove the 3.5mm connector from the AUX jack. The product switches to AUX when a connector is inserted.
5.1 Remove power from the unit and turn on the SoundLink Mini II.
Note: Removing power will test the units ability to play audio from the battery also.
5.2 Press and hold the Bluetooth button until the LED blinks blue to make the unit discoverable.
5.3 From the Bluetooth device list, select the device named “Bose Mini II SoundLink”. Once paired, the LED on the unit should turn a solid white and a voice prompt will identify what device you have connected to.
Note: If you are prompted for a pass code, enter 0000.
5.4 Play a familiar audio track from the Bluetooth device.
5.5 Listen for a clean undistorted sound with no audio drop outs.
6. Speakerphone Test
6.1 Using the cell phone, pair to the SoundLink Mini II via Bluetooth.
6.2 Using a different phone, make a call to the bluetooth connected cell phone.
6.3 The product will announce an incoming call. Answer the call using the multifunction button.
6.4 Listen on the second phone as you talk into the
SoundLink Mini II for clear, undistorted audio from its microphone.
Note: The microphone on the SoundLink Mini II is located on a PCB mounted on the back right of the product.

7. Battery Charging/ USB Port Test
7.1 Connect a USB current meter between the power adapter and the SoundLink Mini II.
7.2 Confirm the reading on the current meter is 1.5A.
Note: It is possible the reading will be a number less than 1.5 if the battery is close to being fully charged.
7.3 Connect a USB current meter between a computer and the SoundLink Mini II.
7.4 Confirm the reading on the current meter is 0.5A.
Note: It is possible the reading will be a number less than 0.5 if the battery is close to being fully charged.
8. Battery Level Check - Optional Test
8.1 Enter TAP command “ba 4” to read the battery voltage level.
8.2 The results are returned in percentage of charge.
Example: The unit responds with 80 = 80% of a full charge.
9. Battery Age Check
9.1 The battery is not able to supply age information by TAP. Use the product’s Date Of Manufacture (DOM) to estimate the battery age or the DOM printed on the battery. The DOM is the 8th,9th,10th,11th number in the serial number in the from YDDD.
Example: 4175 is the 175th day of 2104 or June 24th, 2014.
9.2 The battery should be less than 30 months old

BOSE RC PWAII – HOW TO PROGRAM THE REMOTE – CODE LIST FOR TELEVISION

Bose RC PWAII – How to program the remote – Code list for television

PROGRAMMING PROCEDURE
1. Power on your source.
2. Locate the code for your source’s brand in the Universal
3. On the remote control, press and hold the appropriate source button until all six source buttons glow, then release.
For example, to program your TV, press and hold TV.
Only the appropriate source button glows.
4. On the number keypad, enter the code for your source’s brand.
Note: If all six buttons blink three times, you entered an invalid code.
Repeat steps 3 and 4.
5. Press + on the volume button.
6. Test the source for basic functions:
# TV: press the channel buttons. Press MENU. The settings menu appears. Press LEFT and RIGHT to navigate.
# Cable/satellite box: press MENU. The programming guide appears.
Press LEFT and RIGHT to navigate.
# DVD or Blu-ray Disc player: press GUIDE. The settings menu appears. Press LEFT and RIGHT to navigate.
# Game system: press LEFT and RIGHT to navigate through your menu.
7. If your source responds to basic functions, press EXIT to save your settings.
CODE SEARCH 
Use the remote control’s code scanner to find the code for your source.
1. Press + on the volume button to try another code.
Note: If all six buttons blink three times, you have cycled through all codes for your source.
2. Test the source for basic functions (see step 6 in “Program the remote to control your source”).
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until your source responds.
4. Press EXIT to save your settings.

CODE LIST FOR TELEVISION
A
Aaxa  6132
Acer  1652
Admiral  0182
Advent  1754
Affnity 6190
Aiwa 0406
Akai 0098
Akura  0042
AOC 0137
Apex Digital  1550
Ario  7710
Astar  3127
Asus 4030
Atvio  6133
Audiosonic 0103
Audiovox  0105
Auria  4770
Aventura  2561
B
B & O  5274
Bang & Olufsen  0118
Baysonic 0465
BenQ  2391
BGH 3478
Blue Light  6152
Blue Sky  0134
Britânia  5900
Broksonic  0184
C
CCE  0160
Celera  1900
Champion 2647
Changhong 1766
Citizen 0046
Claris  6616
Coby 2056
Commercial Solutions  2427
Conia  1806
Contex 4280
Continental  4261
Coradir 4735
Cornea 4957
Craig 0161
Curtis 1897
Curtis Mathes  0039
Cytron 1594
D
Daewoo  0092
Daytek  2024
Dell  2064
Digital Projection Inc  3563
Disney 2440
Dukane  7825
Dumont 0256
Durabrand  2191
Dynex  3686
E
Electric Mirror  4894
Electrograph 2534
Electrohome  0381
Electron  1898
Elektra  1132
Element  3682
Elite 0274
Emerson  0236
Envision  0278
Epson  2108
ESA 2420
F
Fair Mate  6083
Favi 7763
Fisher 0154
Fluid 4827
Fujimaro 2746
Funai 0179
G
Gateway  1168
GE 0027
General Electric  1885
GFM 4001
Gibralter 0333
GoldStar  0056
GPX  1720
H
Haier  1767
Hallmark  0351
Hannspree  3236
H-Buster 5926
Hewlett Packard 1671
Hisense 2159
Hitachi  0145
HP 2271
Hyundai  1206
I
iLo 2464
InFocus 0995
Initial  2017
Insignia  2471
Inteq  0893
iRIS 4055
IRT  1830
iSymphony 3863
J
JCM 4630
Jensen 0405
JVC 0053
K
KDS  3383
Ken Brown 2620
KLH 0408
Konka  1235
L
Lexus 6146
LG 0511
LodgingStar 4868
LXI  0148
M
MAG  3384
Magnasonic 0848
Magnavox 0054
Marantz  0128
Matsushita 0478
Maxent 2434
Megatron  0485
Memorex  0037
MGA  0155
Microsonic 4673
Midland 0493
Mintek 1788
Miray 4998
Mitsubishi  0150
Mitsui 3847
Mx Onda 1629
N
NAD  0513
Naoki  6147
Naxa  3571
NEC  0170
NetTV 2539
New Acoustic Dimension  5601
Nexus Electronics 4032
Nikko  0529
Nimbro 4143
Noblex  0534
Norcent 1838
Nordmende 0537
NuVision  3355
O
Ölevia 5964
Optimus 0546
Optique 6677
Orion 0549
Otic 2443
P
Panasonic 0051
Panavox 4496
PARK  4065
Philco 0030
Philips 0081
Pioneer  0166
Planar  3573
Polaroid  2163
Portland 0582
Prima  0586
Prism  0588
Proscan  0883
Proton 0031
Proview 2133
Pulsar  0599
Pyle 2421
Pyle Home 5674
Q
Quasar 0055
R
RCA  0047
Realistic 0420
Runco  0632
S
Sampo 0032
Samsung  0060
Sansui 0067
Sanyo  0159
Sceptre 2541
Scotch  0855
Scott 0309
Sears  0146
Seiki 6024
Seiko Epson  5721
Seleco 0672
Semivox 0948
Semp  0949
Semp Toshiba 5722
Serie Dorada 2906
Sharp 0093
Sigmac  5138
Silo 5740
Silo Digital  5977
Sony  0000
Soundesign  0178
Spectroniq 3385
Speler  8195
Squareview 0706
STI  6483
SunBriteTV  3117
Superscan  2222
Supersonic  2544
SVA 1813
Sylvania  0024
Symphonic  0171
Syntax  2432
T
Talent  3318
Tatung 0049
TCL 2231
Technics  0250
Techwood 0750
Teknika  0322
Telefunken  0757
TMK 0736
TNCi  1736
Tophouse 2157
Tosaki  6145
Toshiba  0156
TruTech  3444
TVS 2032
V
Victor  0809
Vidikron 0814
Vidtech  0815
Viewsonic  1805
Viore  3579
VisionQuest  4494
VIZIO 2215
Vuon  4421
W
Waycon 1700
Westinghouse 2258
White Westinghouse 0830
Wyse 2422
Z
Zenith  0017

BOSE SOUNDTOUCH 20 – DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE – HOW TO REPLACE THE SPACERS – HOW TO REMOVE THE AMPLIFIER

Bose SoundTouch 20 – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the spacers – How to remove the amplifier

Bottom Cover Removal
Remove the 6 screws indicated
Lift off the bottom cover.
I/O PCB RemovalRemove the FFC from connector J606.
Remove the four screws securing the I/O PCB.
Lift up the I/O PCB and disconnect the cable harness from J610. Figure
Disconnect the FFC from J607.
Press on J605’s two connector release tabs and carefully pull out the FFC.
Side Panel RemovalGrasp the side panel and slide it upward to remove the side panel from the enclosure.
Grille and Top Cover Removal
Remove the two screws securing the grille assembly to the bottom of the matrix.
Remove the two screws, on either side, securing the grille assembly to the side of the matrix.
With the unit on its back, lift up on the lower part of the grille and rotate it backward until grille and top cover are disengaged.
Remove the FFC from the button and display PCB.
Important Note: Take ESD precautions when disconnecting the OLED display.
Button PCB Removal
Remove the four screws securing the button PCB to the top cap. Slightly lift up the foam to expose to the two screws furthest from the grille.
Remove the six screws securing the display assembly to the grille. Lift out the display assembly.
Important Note: Take ESD precautions when connecting or disconnecting the OLED display.
Important Note: The display assembly must be replaced with the display assembly listed in the main part list. There are different OLEDs that need to match the display PCB. The display assembly listed in the main part list uses a matched OLED and display PCB.
Wi-Fi Module RemovalRemove the FFC from J902 and J802.
Remove the two screws securing the WiFi Module to the matrix and lift out the Wi-Fi Module.
Remove the FFC from J901. Press on J801’s two connector release tabs and carefully pull out the FFC.
Baffle and Driver Removal
Remove the 16 screws securing the baffle to the matrix.
The baffle gasket might cause it to stick to the matrix. Using a flat tool, slightly pry up on the top edges. Lift up the top edge of the baffle.
Note: If the baffle gasket peels away from the baffle, a new baffle with gasket should be used to prevent air leaks.
Disconnect the amp/power supply harness J200. Disconnect the driver harness connectors J302 and J303.
Remove the drivers from the enclosure. Lift out the baffle with amp/power supply PCB connected.
Amp/Power Supply PCB RemovalRemove the four screws securing the amp/ power supply shield.
Remove the two screws securing the amp/ power supply to the baffle. Lift out the amp/ power supply PCB.

Tuesday, 2 April 2019

HOW TO BYPASS DVD LOCK - BOSE BOSE 3.2.1 II SYSTEM

HOW TO BYPASS DVD LOCK - BOSE BOSE 3.2.1 II SYSTEM

Setting a password restriction level. 
Your password will prevent unauthorized viewing of DVD videos that have a higher rating than your restriction level. There are 8 levels to choose from, matched to movie ratings set by the Motion Picture Association of America (MPAA).
* Turn on your TV and select the correct TV input to view your 3.2.1 system.
* Press the System button on your 3.2.1 remote control.
* Using the right [►] and left [◄] arrow buttons, highlight the DVD Lock option.
* Press Enter or the down arrow key V. Note: If you are using the DVD Lock option for the first time, enter a four-digit password. Then enter it again to confirm. Enter your four-digit password.
* Using the down▼ button, scroll down to Lock Discs Rated Above. Press the right [►] arrow button to see the available settings.
* Press the up arrow or down [▲/▼] button to find the rating you want.
* Press Enter or the left arrow [◄] button to save the setting.
* Press Exit to dismiss the Settings menu.
Example: Choosing a Parental Control Setting of 4, restricts access to videos rated above PG-13. Videos with ratings above that may be viewed only after entering the password.
DVD Lock options
The DVD Lock options allow you to restrict viewing of DVD videos with certain ratings. To activate this feature, you need to set a level of restriction and establish a password in the DVD Lock section of the System menu.
DVD Lock Bypass
If a customer forgets his DVD Lock password, or if you have a system in for repair that is locked and will not let you play a DVD without a password, you can bypass the DVD Lock feature by following the steps below.
* Select a non-DVD source and press the SYSTEM button on the remote.
* Navigate to the “DVD Lock” icon on the far right of the TV screen and press ENTER.
* The system will then request the user to enter a password. On the remote control, punch in the bypass code, which is 2673. This is a backdoor password for entering this menu only, not for allowing discs to play.
* After the bypass password is entered, you will be able to change settings in the “DVD Lock” menu.
* If you want to be able to play discs of all ratings, select OFF for “Lock Unrated Discs” and “8” for “Lock Discs Rated Above.” This will allow for all discs to play.
* If you wish to have the parental control engaged, refer to the table on the previous page for ratings restriction definitions and options.
Obtaining System Information from the Media Center Display
You can obtain system information directly from the media center display by pressing a few buttons. Follow the steps below.
Connect the media center and bass module as instructed in the owner’s guide.
Connect the system to AC mains.
With the media center turned off, press and hold the ENTER button on the media center.
When holding down the ENTER button, pressing the ON/OFF button will bring up the console system information on the console display. For each additional press of the ON/OFF button, you will get additional information. See the list below.
Once you are done viewing the information, press the POWER button to clear the display.
Video Format:
Press the ON/OFF button down once. You should see the video format information, similar to VIDEO: NTSC COMPOSITE + S. This indicates the video format the console is set to.
Console Software Revision:
Press the ON/OFF button a second time. You should see the console software revision, similar to CON: 01.01.05, which indicates that the console software
revision is 01.01.05.
Console Variant Information:
Press the ON/OFF button a third time. You should see the console variant information, similar to the following. CONSOLE VARIANT: 129.
Bass Module Software Revision:
Press the ON/OFF button a fourth time. You should see the bass module software revision level, similar to BASS BOX SOFTWARE: 0101BF.
Tuner PCB Software Revision:
Press the ON/OFF button a fifth time. You should see the tuner software revision level, similar to TUNER SOFTWARE: 01.00.BC.
Console Serial Number:
Press the ON/OFF button a sixth time. You should see the console serial number level, similar to CONSOLE SERIAL #: 035666941400018AZ.
Console Main PCB Serial Number:
Press the ON/OFF button a seventh time. You should see the main PCB serial number, similar to MAIN BOARD SERIAL #: xxxxxxxxxxx274256xx0001.
Console Tuner PCB Serial Number:
Press the ON/OFF button an eighth time. You should see the tuner PCB serial number, similar to TUNER BOARD SERIAL #: xxxxxxxxxxx274257xx0001.
Console Region Code Setting:
Press the ON/OFF button a ninth time. You should see the console region code setting, similar to DVD REGION CODE 1.
Console DVD Drive Software Revision and Hardware Information:
Press the ON/OFF button a tenth time. You should see the DVD drive software level and drive information, similar to DVD DRIVE: 1B10 IBA DVD-ROM SD-M1712.
Console Main PCB Test Information:
Press the ON/OFF button an eleventh time. You should see the test information for the console main PCB, similar to MAIN BD FUNCTIONAL: PASSED.
Console Tuner PCB Alignment Information:
Press the ON/OFF button a twelfth time. You should see the tuner PCB alignment information, similar to TUNER BD ALIGNMENT: FF.
Console Serial Port (BoseLink Port ) Information:
Press the ON/OFF button a thirteenth time. You should see the serial port information, similar to SERIAL PORT: SMART SPEAKER.