REPAIRING AND NOT THROWING AWAY

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

In Brief: On this site you will find pictures and technical information about Service Modes, Circuit Diagrams, Firmware Update procedure, Disassemble procedure, Universal remote control set-up codes, Troubleshooting and more....

If you go into the profession, you will obtain or have access to a variety of tech tips databases HERE IT IS Master Electronics Repair !.

These are an excellent investment where the saying: 'time-is-money' rules. However, to learn, you need to develop a general troubleshooting approach - a logical, methodical, method of narrowing down the problem. A tech tip database might suggest: 'Replace C536' for a particular symptom. This is good advice for a specific problem on one model. However, what you really want to understand is why C536 was the cause and how to pinpoint the culprit in general even if you don't have a service manual or schematic and your tech tip database doesn't have an entry for your sick TV or VCR.

While schematics are nice, you won't always have them or be able to justify the purchase for a one-of repair. Therefore, in many cases, some reverse engineering will be necessary. The time will be well spent since even if you don't see another instance of the same model in your entire lifetime, you will have learned something in the process that can be applied to other equipment problems.
As always, when you get stuck, checking out a tech-tips database may quickly identify your problem and solution.In that case, you can greatly simplify your troubleshooting or at least confirm a diagnosis before ordering parts.

Happy repairing!
Today, the West is headed for the abyss. For the ultimate fate of our disposable society is for that society itself to be disposed of. And this will happen sooner, rather than later.

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..............The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of todays funny gadgets low price has faded from memory........ . . . . . .....
Don't forget the past, the end of the world is upon us! Pretty soon it will all turn to dust!

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All posts are presented here for informative, historical and educative purposes as applicable within fair use. NOTHING HERE IS FOR SALE !

Wednesday 10 April 2019

BOSE AUDIO - BOSE SOUNDLINK MINI – DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE – TEST PROCEDURE

Bose Audio - Bose soundlink Mini – Disassembling procedure – Test procedure

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 
1. Grille Removal
Note: The grille is held in place by Pressure Sensitive Adhesive (PSA) strips located in the center of the grille  and also by two tabs on either end of the grille .
To avoid destroying the grill during the removal process, brush alcohol over the PSA stripsbefore attempting to remove it.
Important Note: To avoid damage to the cabinet, do not use the cabinet as a pry point to remove the grille.
1.1 At the location shown in Figure, insert the tip of a plastic tool, such as a spudger, between the grille and its rubber gasket.
Note: The location shown is between the PSA and grille tabs securing the grille.
1.2 Rotate the spudger away from you while prying against the rubber gasket.
1.3 Once a portion of the grille is released, grasp the grille and pull it across the unit lengthwise to release the PSA.
2. Battery Removal
The Battery in SoundLink Mini II is hardwired to the Boost PCB. See figure . Place the product in ship mode prior to disassembly.
The rear grille, I/O PCB, rear baffle and Amp PCB must be removed before the Battery and Boost board can be removed. Use the following procedure to remove the battery and the boost board in order to unsolder the cable and replace the battery.
2.1 Remove the foot by pulling it away from the battery.
2.2 Remove the four screws securing the battery to the cabinet.
2.3 Remove the four screws securing the I/O PCB to the cabinet as shown in.
2.4 Carefully peel away the foam tape securing the FFC cable to the I/O PCB connector. This foam will be damaged when removing, plan to replace the foam with part number 373978-0010.
Note: When handling the I/O board, do not to touch the microphone filter with fingers. Gloves should be used to avoid contact with the filter..
The replacement I/O PCB does not include the microphone filter. Install new part (744588-0010) when replacing the I/O PCB.
2.4 Move the I/O PCB to the right until the AUX connector clears the housing and then lift the top edge of the PCB until the USB connector clears the housing.
2.5 Partially lift out the I/O PCB. Lift up the connector locking tab to release the FFC cable from the I/O PCB connector.
2.6 Pull the battery cover out of the retaining slot in the cabinet.
2.7 Remove the four screws securing the rear baffle.
2.8 Lift the battery up and away from the enclosure. The battery will still be connected to the boost board but cannot be fully removed until the end of the procedure.
2.9 As shown in Figure , insert your thumb into the battery cavity and press upward on the rear baffle.
2.10 Hold the FFC against the transducer through the battery opening while rocking the baffle back/ forth as you slide it out of the cabinet. The FFC will slide out of the slot in the rear baffle while extracting the baffle in this way.
Note: Placing strain on the FFC Main PCB connector can damage the connector if the FFC is not held.
2.11 Using your thumb, push up on the Amp PCB as shown in Figure to release it from the boost board.
2.12 Disconnect the speaker wire harness from the AMP PCB.
2.13 Release the Boost board from the main board connector by pushing upward, left.
2.14 Once the connector is unplugged, pull outward on the boost board to release it from the slot, right.
2.15 Lift the battery away from the enclosure by twisting the boost board to allow it to exit from the assembly along with the battery.
2.16 Once the battery and boost board are removed from the enclosure, the battery cable can be unsol dered and a new battery can be installed. Figure  shows the solder connections for the battery cable.
3. Driver Removal
3.1 Remove the eight screws securing the front baffle.
3.2 As shown in Figure, insert your thumb into the back of the unit or the battery cavity and push the front baffle out of the cabinet.
3.3 Lift the left driver out of the cabinet. With a plastic tool, such as a spudger, release the speaker harness cable from the AMP PCB
4. Main PCB Removal
Important Note! To avoid damage to the switches on the Main PCB, the front and rear baffle should be removed. The Main PCB is held in place by a shelf on the front and rear baffles which restricts the ability of the Main PCB to be rotated downward enough for the switches to clear the cabinet holes.
4.1 Perform procedures 1, 2, 3.1 and 3.2 to gain access to the Main board.
4.1 Detach the speaker wire from the wire clip on the main board.
4.1 lift upward on the main board and remove.
5. Lens Removal
5.1 Perform procedures 1, 2, 3 and 4 to gain access to the lens
5.2 The Lens is held in place by Pressure Sensitive Adhesive (PSA). Insert your thumbs into the cabinet and press upward on the Lens to release the PSA.
6. Button Pad Removal
5.1 Perform procedures 1, 2, 3 and 4 to gain access to the button pad.
6.1 Insert a plastic tool, such as a spudger, under the corner of the button pad and lift it up.
6.2 Peel up the button pad.
TEST PROCEDURES
Equipment Required
Computer w/USB port
PolyComm Software
USB TYPE A to micro B cable
Audio frequency generator
Cell Phone with Bluetooth Capabilities
USB current meter
Prior to the functional test, the integrity of the external flash IC holding all non English languages should be checked.
A. Factory default the product by pressing the power button for 10 seconds until the LED’s turn off. Once the button is released, voice prompts will ask you to select the language.
B. Scroll through the different languages by pressing the volume plus button. Then select a language.
The integrity of the flash IC is confirmed if the different languages can be heard.
1. Test Setup
1.1 Turn on the SoundLink Mini II by pressing the power button.
1.2 Run the Polycomm software and connect the USB cable from the computer to the SoundLink Mini II. Then select TAP mode.
2. Left/Right Driver/ AUX Input Test
2.1 Connect a signal generator to the left AUX input of the Bose Mini II Soundlink.
2.2 Adjust the signal generator to 50mVrms, 800Hz.
2.3 Issue TAP command VO 86 to set the volume to 60 (range is 0 to 99)
2.4 Confirm audio plays from the left driver.
2.5 Connect the signal generator to the right AUX input of the Soundlink Color.
2.6 Confirm audio plays from the right driver.
3. Air Leak Test/ AUX Input Test
3.1 Connect a signal generator the AUX input of the SoundLink Mini II.
3.2 Adjust the signal generator to 1.00Vrms, 60Hz.
3.3 Issue TAP command VO 86 to set the volume to 99 (range is 0 to 99)
3.4 Listen for air leaks around the cabinet edges and keypad.
PASS if no audible air leaks can be heard at a distance of less than 1 ft (0.3M).
FAIL if any audible air leaks can be heard at a distance of less than 1 ft (0.3M).
4. Frequency Sweep Test/ AUX Input Test
4.1 Connect a signal generator to the AUX input of the SoundLink Mini II.
4.2 Adjust the signal generator to 1.0Vrms, 50Hz.
4.3 Issue TAP command VO 99 to set the volume to 99 (range is 0 to 99)
4.4 Sweep the signal generator from 50Hz to 2kHz.
4.5 Listen for any extraneous noises such as buzzes, rattles, ticks, or distortion. PASS if no noise can be heard at a distance of less than 1ft (0.3M).
FAIL if any noise can be heard at a distance less than 1ft (0.3M).
5. Bluetooth Functional Test
For this test, use a Cell phone with A2DP Bluetooth, such as an iPhone (Advanced Audio Distribution Profile)
Pair SoundLink Mini II and Bluetooth device.
Note: Make sure to remove the 3.5mm connector from the AUX jack. The product switches to AUX when a connector is inserted.
5.1 Remove power from the unit and turn on the SoundLink Mini II.
Note: Removing power will test the units ability to play audio from the battery also.
5.2 Press and hold the Bluetooth button until the LED blinks blue to make the unit discoverable.
5.3 From the Bluetooth device list, select the device named “Bose Mini II SoundLink”. Once paired, the LED on the unit should turn a solid white and a voice prompt will identify what device you have connected to.
Note: If you are prompted for a pass code, enter 0000.
5.4 Play a familiar audio track from the Bluetooth device.
5.5 Listen for a clean undistorted sound with no audio drop outs.
6. Speakerphone Test
6.1 Using the cell phone, pair to the SoundLink Mini II via Bluetooth.
6.2 Using a different phone, make a call to the bluetooth connected cell phone.
6.3 The product will announce an incoming call. Answer the call using the multifunction button.
6.4 Listen on the second phone as you talk into the
SoundLink Mini II for clear, undistorted audio from its microphone.
Note: The microphone on the SoundLink Mini II is located on a PCB mounted on the back right of the product.

7. Battery Charging/ USB Port Test
7.1 Connect a USB current meter between the power adapter and the SoundLink Mini II.
7.2 Confirm the reading on the current meter is 1.5A.
Note: It is possible the reading will be a number less than 1.5 if the battery is close to being fully charged.
7.3 Connect a USB current meter between a computer and the SoundLink Mini II.
7.4 Confirm the reading on the current meter is 0.5A.
Note: It is possible the reading will be a number less than 0.5 if the battery is close to being fully charged.
8. Battery Level Check - Optional Test
8.1 Enter TAP command “ba 4” to read the battery voltage level.
8.2 The results are returned in percentage of charge.
Example: The unit responds with 80 = 80% of a full charge.
9. Battery Age Check
9.1 The battery is not able to supply age information by TAP. Use the product’s Date Of Manufacture (DOM) to estimate the battery age or the DOM printed on the battery. The DOM is the 8th,9th,10th,11th number in the serial number in the from YDDD.
Example: 4175 is the 175th day of 2104 or June 24th, 2014.
9.2 The battery should be less than 30 months old