REPAIRING AND NOT THROWING AWAY

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

In Brief: On this site you will find pictures and technical information about Service Modes, Circuit Diagrams, Firmware Update procedure, Disassemble procedure, Universal remote control set-up codes, Troubleshooting and more....

If you go into the profession, you will obtain or have access to a variety of tech tips databases HERE IT IS Master Electronics Repair !.

These are an excellent investment where the saying: 'time-is-money' rules. However, to learn, you need to develop a general troubleshooting approach - a logical, methodical, method of narrowing down the problem. A tech tip database might suggest: 'Replace C536' for a particular symptom. This is good advice for a specific problem on one model. However, what you really want to understand is why C536 was the cause and how to pinpoint the culprit in general even if you don't have a service manual or schematic and your tech tip database doesn't have an entry for your sick TV or VCR.

While schematics are nice, you won't always have them or be able to justify the purchase for a one-of repair. Therefore, in many cases, some reverse engineering will be necessary. The time will be well spent since even if you don't see another instance of the same model in your entire lifetime, you will have learned something in the process that can be applied to other equipment problems.
As always, when you get stuck, checking out a tech-tips database may quickly identify your problem and solution.In that case, you can greatly simplify your troubleshooting or at least confirm a diagnosis before ordering parts.

Happy repairing!
Today, the West is headed for the abyss. For the ultimate fate of our disposable society is for that society itself to be disposed of. And this will happen sooner, rather than later.

How to use the site:

- If you landed here via any Search Engine, you will get what you searched for and you can search more using the search this blog feature provided by Google. You can visit more posts scrolling the left blog archive of all posts of the month/year,
or you can click on the main photo-page to start from the main page. Doing so it starts from the most recent post to the older post simple clicking on the Older Post button on the bottom of each page after reading , post after post.

You can even visit all posts, time to time, when reaching the bottom end of each page and click on the Older Post button.

- If you arrived here at the main page via bookmark you can visit all the site scrolling the left blog archive of all posts of the month/year pointing were you want , or more simple You can even visit all blog posts, from newer to older, clicking at the end of each bottom page on the Older Post button.
So you can see all the blog/site content surfing all pages in it.

- The search this blog feature provided by Google is a real search engine. If you're pointing particular things it will search IT for you; or you can place a brand name in the search query at your choice and visit all results page by page. It's useful since the content of the site is very large.

Note that if you don't find what you searched for, try it after a period of time; the site is a never ending job !

..............The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of todays funny gadgets low price has faded from memory........ . . . . . .....
Don't forget the past, the end of the world is upon us! Pretty soon it will all turn to dust!

©2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 Frank Sharp - You do not have permission to copy photos and words from this blog, and any content may be never used it for auctions or commercial purposes, however feel free to post anything you see here with a courtesy link back, btw a link to the original post here , is mandatory.
All posts are presented here for informative, historical and educative purposes as applicable within fair use. NOTHING HERE IS FOR SALE !

Wednesday, 10 April 2019

APPLE IPAD WI-FI – HOW TO REPLACE THE SPEAKERS

Apple iPad Wi-Fi – How to replace the Speakers

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during  your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Do  your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.
Insert a metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.
Rotate the spudger away from you to release the tabs along the top edge of the display.
Insert a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly to keep the tabs from snapping back into place.
With one spudger, work your way along the right edge of the iPad.
The front panel is held to the aluminum back by metal clips on the top, bottom, and left sides. The right side has plastic tabs which slide into recesses in the backplate.
Once the clips are released, lift the left side of the front panel up and slide it to the left to clear the tabs from the aluminum backplate.
Lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge.
Do not attempt to remove the display at this time, as it is attached to the rear panel assembly.
In the following steps, you will disconnect the three cables attaching the display assembly to the logic board. The cables are for the following components:
Digitizer
Ambient Light Sensor
Display Data Cable
Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flaps holding the digitizer ribbon cables in their sockets on the logic board.
Be sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets.
Use a plastic opening tool to remove the ambient light sensor connector from its socket by gently prying upward.
Disconnect the display data cable from the main board by flipping up the metal retainer by its black plastic pull tab.
Pull the cable connector away from its socket.
Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.
Remove the display assembly from the rear panel assembly.
Remove the two 4.56 mm T5 Torx screws securing the dock connector cable to the main board.
Remove the single 2.84 mm T5 Torx screw connecting the dock connector cable to the rear case assembly.
Remove the two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws securing the dock connector cable to the rear panel assembly.
Carefully remove the plastic cover over the WiFi/Bluetooth board and dock connector cable using a plastic opening tool.
Pry the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth antennas up off their respective sockets on the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth board.
Remove the dock connector cable from the rear panel assembly.
Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to disconnect the speaker connector from the logic board. Pry up from beneath the wires.
Remove the two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws securing the speaker assembly to the rear panel assembly. If necessary, remove the tape covering the Wi-Fi cables.
De-route the Wi-Fi antenna through its channel in the speaker assembly.
Deroute the speaker cable connector through the left side of the rear panel assembly.
Lift the speaker assembly and push it forward until the ports clear the bottom side of the rear panel assembly.
Remove the speaker assembly out of the rear panel assembly.