REPAIRING AND NOT THROWING AWAY

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

In Brief: On this site you will find pictures and technical information about Service Modes, Circuit Diagrams, Firmware Update procedure, Disassemble procedure, Universal remote control set-up codes, Troubleshooting and more....

If you go into the profession, you will obtain or have access to a variety of tech tips databases HERE IT IS Master Electronics Repair !.

These are an excellent investment where the saying: 'time-is-money' rules. However, to learn, you need to develop a general troubleshooting approach - a logical, methodical, method of narrowing down the problem. A tech tip database might suggest: 'Replace C536' for a particular symptom. This is good advice for a specific problem on one model. However, what you really want to understand is why C536 was the cause and how to pinpoint the culprit in general even if you don't have a service manual or schematic and your tech tip database doesn't have an entry for your sick TV or VCR.

While schematics are nice, you won't always have them or be able to justify the purchase for a one-of repair. Therefore, in many cases, some reverse engineering will be necessary. The time will be well spent since even if you don't see another instance of the same model in your entire lifetime, you will have learned something in the process that can be applied to other equipment problems.
As always, when you get stuck, checking out a tech-tips database may quickly identify your problem and solution.In that case, you can greatly simplify your troubleshooting or at least confirm a diagnosis before ordering parts.

Happy repairing!
Today, the West is headed for the abyss. For the ultimate fate of our disposable society is for that society itself to be disposed of. And this will happen sooner, rather than later.

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Note that if you don't find what you searched for, try it after a period of time; the site is a never ending job !

..............The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of todays funny gadgets low price has faded from memory........ . . . . . .....
Don't forget the past, the end of the world is upon us! Pretty soon it will all turn to dust!

©2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 Frank Sharp - You do not have permission to copy photos and words from this blog, and any content may be never used it for auctions or commercial purposes, however feel free to post anything you see here with a courtesy link back, btw a link to the original post here , is mandatory.
All posts are presented here for informative, historical and educative purposes as applicable within fair use. NOTHING HERE IS FOR SALE !

Wednesday, 10 April 2019

APPLE IPAD WI-FI – DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE - HOW TO REPLACE THE BATTERY

Apple iPad Wi-Fi – Disassembling procedure - How to replace the battery

BATTERY REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE 
If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.
Insert a metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.
Rotate the spudger away from you to release the tabs along the top edge of the display.
Insert a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly to keep the tabs from snapping back into place.
With one spudger, work your way along the right edge of the iPad.
The front panel is held to the aluminum back by metal clips on the top, bottom, and left sides. The right side has plastic tabs which slide into recesses in the backplate.
Once the clips are released, lift the left side of the front panel up and slide it to the left to clear the tabs from the aluminum backplate.
Lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge.
Do not attempt to remove the display at this time, as it is attached to the rear panel assembly.
In the following steps, you will disconnect the three cables attaching the display assembly to the logic board. The cables are for the following components:
Digitizer
Ambient Light Sensor
Display Data Cable
Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flaps holding the digitizer ribbon cables in their sockets on the logic board.
Be sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets.
Use a plastic opening tool to remove the ambient light sensor connector from its socket by gently prying upward.
Disconnect the display data cable from the main board by flipping up the metal retainer by its black plastic pull tab.
Pull the cable connector away from its socket.
Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.
Remove the display assembly from the rear panel assembly.
Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to:
Pry the side button connector up off the logic board from underneath the wires.
Pry the speaker connector up off its socket on the logic board from beneath the speaker wires.
Carefully flip up the ZIF ribbon cable retaining flap on the socket near the headphone jack.
Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Pull the headphone jack ribbon cable toward the left side of the iPad to disconnect it from its socket.
Remove the following screws
securing the logic board to the rear panel assembly.
Two 4.56 mm T5 Torx screws.
Two 3.76 mm T5 Torx screws.
Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the dock cable connector straight up off the logic board.
Lift the logic board out of the rear panel assembly.
Remove the two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws securing the speaker assembly to the rear panel assembly.
Remove the single T5 Torx screw securing the middle of the dock cable to the rear panel assembly.
Remove the two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws securing the dock connector cable to the rear case.
Using a plastic opening tool, carefully remove the plastic cover shielding the WiFi/Bluetooth board and dock connector cable. Carefully pry the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth antennas up from their respective sockets on the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth board.
Lift the dock connector cable out of the rear panel assembly.
De-route the speaker cable from the left side of the battery case.
De-route the Wi-Fi antenna through its channel in the speaker assembly.
Lift the speaker assembly and push it forward until the ports clear the bottom side of the lower case.
Remove the speaker assembly from the rear panel assembly.
The battery is held to the rear panel by an excessive amount of adhesive. Proceed with patience and caution.
Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the battery up from the the lower case.
Gently continue to enlarge the gap by wiggling the spudger and running it along the right side of the battery.
Continue to pry until the right side of the battery is free from the rear panel.
Insert the flat end of a spudger under the top edge of the battery and continue to separate the adhesive.
Continue doing so until the top of the battery is free from the rear panel.
When there is enough clearance, use your hands to peel the battery off any adhesive still securing it to the rear panel.

Remove the battery from the rear panel.