REPAIRING AND NOT THROWING AWAY

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

In Brief: On this site you will find pictures and technical information about Service Modes, Circuit Diagrams, Firmware Update procedure, Disassemble procedure, Universal remote control set-up codes, Troubleshooting and more....

If you go into the profession, you will obtain or have access to a variety of tech tips databases HERE IT IS Master Electronics Repair !.

These are an excellent investment where the saying: 'time-is-money' rules. However, to learn, you need to develop a general troubleshooting approach - a logical, methodical, method of narrowing down the problem. A tech tip database might suggest: 'Replace C536' for a particular symptom. This is good advice for a specific problem on one model. However, what you really want to understand is why C536 was the cause and how to pinpoint the culprit in general even if you don't have a service manual or schematic and your tech tip database doesn't have an entry for your sick TV or VCR.

While schematics are nice, you won't always have them or be able to justify the purchase for a one-of repair. Therefore, in many cases, some reverse engineering will be necessary. The time will be well spent since even if you don't see another instance of the same model in your entire lifetime, you will have learned something in the process that can be applied to other equipment problems.
As always, when you get stuck, checking out a tech-tips database may quickly identify your problem and solution.In that case, you can greatly simplify your troubleshooting or at least confirm a diagnosis before ordering parts.

Happy repairing!
Today, the West is headed for the abyss. For the ultimate fate of our disposable society is for that society itself to be disposed of. And this will happen sooner, rather than later.

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Note that if you don't find what you searched for, try it after a period of time; the site is a never ending job !

..............The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of todays funny gadgets low price has faded from memory........ . . . . . .....
Don't forget the past, the end of the world is upon us! Pretty soon it will all turn to dust!

©2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 Frank Sharp - You do not have permission to copy photos and words from this blog, and any content may be never used it for auctions or commercial purposes, however feel free to post anything you see here with a courtesy link back, btw a link to the original post here , is mandatory.
All posts are presented here for informative, historical and educative purposes as applicable within fair use. NOTHING HERE IS FOR SALE !

Monday 8 April 2019

APPLE IPAD TOUCH 5TH GENERATION: DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE

Apple iPad Touch 5th generation: disassembling procedure


Apple iPad Touch 5th generation – Disassembling procedure – How to remove the case – How to remove the battery – How to remove the display
If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPod's display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair
The bottom of the screen (near the home button) is held in place with strong adhesive.
Use a heat gun or hair dryer (low setting) to soften the adhesive.
As you start prying the screen off in the next stages, you may need to apply more heat to keep the glue warm and flexible.
Center the suction cup on the lower section of the glass, with its edge centered over the home button.
Press in firmly and make sure the cup has a strong seal.
Hold the iPod firmly against a table or bench.
Place your thumb and index finger over the lower corners of the display to stop the display from opening too far when the adhesive breaks.
Lift the suction cup up and back toward the top of the iPod. Be patient, and pull with firm, constant force until the adhesive breaks and the display comes up from the rear case.
It may be necessary to use a heat gun to soften the adhesive (especially in cooler climates). If you can pry the screen apart, and the adhesive is still sticking and pulling apart like cheese topping on a pizza, you can slide a thin razor blade in and gently cut the adhesive.
After the display begins to lift from the rear case, be careful not to lift more than about an inch a fragile plastic frame still connects the display assembly to the rear case.
In the following steps, you will be loosening and freeing the plastic frame that surrounds the screen. It is connected to the rear case with several clips.
Starting at the top right of the device, insert a plastic opening tool into the gap between the plastic frame and the aluminum rear case.
Slide the tool down this crack, loosening the frame from the case.
Insert the plastic opening tool between the frame and the rear case behind the first clip. Rock the tool sideways, to spread the gap behind the clip and separate it from the rear case.
This may not free the clip initially, but repeating the procedure for each clip will begin to loosen the piece.
Repeat the procedure with the next two clips on this side.
You may have to go back and forth between the clips to free all of them. Take your time and be careful and patient, as the plastic frame is quite fragile.
Moving on to the left side of the device, insert a plastic opening tool into the gap between the plastic frame and the aluminum rear case near the top.
Slide the tool down this crack, loosening the frame from the case.
Insert the plastic opening tool between the frame and the rear case behind the first clip on the left side.
Rock the tool sideways, to spread the gap behind the clip and separate it from the rear
case.
Repeat the procedure with the next two clips on this side.
Insert the plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and aluminum rear case behind the second clip.
Rock the tool sideways, loosening the clip from the case.
Using the same procedure, loosen the last clip securing the plastic frame to the rear case.
Insert the plastic opening tool between the display assembly and the rear case near the top of the iPod.
Slightly twist the opening tool to pry the front panel up from the rear case.
Separate the display assembly from the iPod.
Do not try to completely remove the front panel, as it is still connected by several cables.
Gently fold the display over away from the rest of the iPod, taking care not to disconnect or break any of the ribbon cables. Set the two halves flat on a table or bench.
Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button switch up from the LCD plate.
It may be necessary to use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive on the back of the home button. Always use a low heat setting.
Do not attempt to remove the home button switch, as it is connected to components below the LCD plate.
Remove the following screws securing the LCD plate to the rear case:
Two 1.2 mm #00 Phillips screws
Nine 1.6 mm #00 Phillips screws
One 2.3 mm #00 Phillips screw
Lift up and remove the LCD plate from the iPod.
Remove three 1.6 mm #00 Phillips screws securing the logic board to the rear case.
There are two strips of adhesive keeping the battery in place.
Turn the iPod over and heat the
BACK of the aluminium iPod case. Do not heat the battery.
The aluminium case does not have to be hot; you should always be able to touch heated parts with your fingers at all times without it being uncomfortable.
There are three notches on either side of the battery. In the next few steps, you will be using these notches to gradually pry the battery up from the rear case.
The battery is secured with large amounts of adhesive, so you'll need to go slowly and carefully to avoid puncturing or creasing the battery.
Insert a plastic opening tool into the top right notch and gently pry up on the battery.
Do not attempt to pry up the entire battery at this point; you just want to start to loosen the adhesive at each of the prying points, in turn.
Continue with the lower right notch. Insert the plastic opening tool into the notch, and gently pry up on the side of the battery.
Continue prying the battery up from the bottom.
When prying along the bottom, be careful not to press down too hard against the speaker or headphone jack.
Pry along the left side as well.
You may need to move back and forth between the sides and bottom of the battery, prying a small amount at a time until the battery is entirely free from the adhesive.
Once all of the adhesive is loosened, lift the battery up from the bottom and swing it out over the left side of the rear case.
Be sure not to yank it out, as it is soldered to the logic board.
Flip the battery over to straighten its cable and set it down.
Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the front-facing camera out of its socket in the display assembly.
Use the tip of a spudger to peel back a small piece of tape covering a screw on the side of the headphone jack.
Remove the following screws securing the headphone jack, Lightning connector, and speaker.
Three 2.6 mm #00 Phillips screws
Two 2.0 mm #00 Phillips screws
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the speaker up from the rear case.
Do not try to remove the speaker, as it is soldered to the Lightning connector assembly.
Grasping the large ribbon cable, gently pull the Lightning connector assembly out of the bottom of the case.
Flip the entire assembly over, exposing the back of the logic board.
Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable from the logic board.
Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display cable from its socket in the logic board.
Flip the Lightning connector/logic board assembly back over to expose the top of the logic board.
The display cable is lightly adhered to the top of the logic board.
Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the display cable up from the logic board.
Remove the display assembly from the iPod.