APPLE IPOD CLASSIC HOW TO REPLACE THE HARD DRIVE - HDD

How to replace the hard drive - HDD – Apple iPod Classic

Apple iPod Classic: DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 

Apple designed their iPods to be very difficult to take apart without destroying major components. Because of the metal face plate, the metal backing, and the 13 metal clips holding the case together, this is one of the toughest Pods to disassemble. Proceed with caution and the warning that you may significantly damage your iPod beyond its present condition. Also, you may want a few extra pairs of plastic
opening tools during installation, as they are easy to ruin when opening the iPod. Have fun! Before opening your iPod, ensure that the hold switch is in the locked position.

Opening this iPod is challenging. Don't get discouraged if it takes you a few tries before the iPod is opened. One thing to notice is the angle of the plastic opening tool's tip while inserting it into the iPod. Ideally, the angle should be as vertical as possible while still clearing the edge of the rear panel. Insert a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod.

Insert another plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod, leaving at least 1.5 inches of space between the two tools.

At an angle, carefully insert a putty knife about 1/8 inch into the seam between the two opening tools. There are thin metal rails running along the inside of the rear panel, so take great care when inserting the putty knife.

Once the putty knife has cleared the lip of the rear panel, pivot the putty knife so that it is vertical, and carefully (but firmly) wiggle it straight down into the gap between the opening tools.

Push with your fingers on the rear panel behind the putty knife to minimize bending. Slowly flex the putty knife, as shown in the picture, to ensure that most of the metal tabs on this side of the iPod are disengaged. The theory behind this method is, rather than attempting to not bend the rear panel at all, to bend it in a favorable manner that allows you to easily restore it later. Therefore, any bend in the sides of the rear panel should be drawing the lip of the rear panel away from the iPod, rather than pushing out on the curved surface. This method also disengages as many of the side clips as possible.

Remove the putty knife from the iPod and reinsert it closer to the corner of the iPod, using the same wiggle method as before.

If at all possible, do not bend the corner of the rear panel.

Between the lock slider and headphone jack, insert a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod. You may find it easier to carefully flex the putty knife downward in order to create more of a gap for the opening tool, but be sure not to bend the corner of the rear panel!

Near the center of the display, carefully insert a metal spudger into the gap created by the plastic opening tool. It is easy to create a noticeable bump in the rear panel here that is difficult to repair. When prying the tab free, try to have the metal spudger pivot on the edge of the rear panel rather than bending the rear panel outward.

Using the metal spudger, disengage the single clip on the top of the iPod.

Near the other top corner, insert an opening tool into the seam between he front and back of the iPod

On the other side, insert an opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod. You may find it easier to angle the opening tool stuck in the top corner in order to create a sufficient gap.

Remove the plastic opening tool from the top corner and insert it into the seam between the front and back of the iPod, leaving at least 1.5 inches of space between the two tools (as done on the other side).At an angle, carefully insert a putty knife about 1/8 inch into the seam between the two opening tools. Again, there are thin metal rails running along the inside of the rear panel, so take great care when inserting the putty knife. Once the putty knife has cleared the lip of the rear panel, angle the putty knife so that it is vertical, and carefully (but firmly) wiggle it straight down into the iPod via the gap between the plastic opening tools. Push with your fingers on the rear panel behind the putty knife to minimize bending. Ever so slightly flex the putty knife to ensure that most of the metal tabs on this side of the iPod are disengaged.

The metal clips near the corners are notorious for tenaciously gripping the front panel. It is necessary to disengage these clips in order to open the iPod. Carefully insert a metal spudger into the area near the stubborn metal clip.

Gently wiggle the metal spudger down so that it is all the way in the rear panel.

Gently begin to disengage the clip from the front panel. It is easy to create a noticeable bump in the rear panel here that is difficult to repair. When prying the tab free, try to have the metal spudger pivot on the edge of the rear panel rather than bending the rear panel outward

Continue to push up on the front panel with the metal spudger until the metal clip releases.

There are two ribbon cables connecting the rear panel to the rest of the iPod. In the following step, be careful not to damage these ribbon cables. Grasp the front panel assembly with one hand and the rear panel with the other. Take a deep breath! Gently (GENTLY) disengage the remaining clips on the rear panel by pulling the tops of the front and rear panels away from each other (think of the bottom of the iPod as a hinge), taking great care not to damage the ribbon cables holding the two halves together.

Use a spudger to slide up the connector holding the orange battery ribbon in place. You only need to lift the locking bar up about 2 mm to free the cable. Slide the orange battery ribbon out of its connector.

Place the rear panel next to the iPod, being careful not to strain the orange headphone jack cable.

Lift the hard drive up with one hand so you can access the headphone jack ribbon beneath.
Use a spudger to flip up the plastic tab holding the headphone jack ribbon in place. The tab will rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable.
Slide the orange headphone jack ribbon out of its connector.
The rear panel is now free from the iPod.

Now to repair the damage caused by liberating the internal parts of the iPod Classic! It is highly likely that at least one of the metal clips in the lower case has been bent upward. These clips must all be pointing downward in order to reinstall the rear panel. Take the broad, flat side of the metal spudger and push the clip down, taking care not to tear the thin metal rail from the rear panel. Be careful not to damage any of the headphone jack parts while shaping these clips!

On a clean, hard surface, lay the rear panel on its side. Carefully but firmly push down on it, rolling the entire lip side back into its proper spot. It may be necessary to do this multiple times in order to achieve optimal straightness on the sides. It is better to have the edges of the case pushed in slightly too far rather than not far enough, because the reseating of the front panel will bend the rear panel into its correct alignment. Now that the rear panel is back to a beautiful condition, you can move on to repairing the iPod.

Rotate the hard drive out of the framework and place it so that the connector is facing up. Use a spudger to flip up the plastic tab holding the orange hard drive ribbon in place. The tab will rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable.

Slide the orange hard drive ribbon cable directly out of its connector. If you are replacing the hard drive in your iPod and it did not come with the rubber mounting brackets and foam padding, transfer these items from your old drive to the replacement drive.

APPLE IPOD SHUFFLE – DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE – HOW TO REMOVE THE CASE – HOW TO REMOVE THE BATTERY

Apple iPod Shuffle – Disassembling procedure – How to remove the case – How to remove the Battery

Apple iPod Shuffle:  DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 

Before beginning, be sure your Shuffle is turned off as shown.

Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to pry the plastic cover off the headphone jack side of the Shuffle.

Remove the plastic cover and set it aside.

Remove the two Phillips screws from the headphone jack side of the Shuffle.

Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to remove the steel cover from the headphone jack side of the Shuffle.

Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to pry the plastic cover off the controls side of the Shuffle. Remove the plastic cover and set it aside.

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the hold and shuffle sliders from the Shuffle.

Remove the two Phillips screws on the controls side of the Shuffle.

Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to remove the steel plate from the controls side of the Shuffle.

Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to slightly pry the steel plate on the headphone jack side of the Shuffle away from the lip cut into the outer case.

Use your iPod opening tool to push the logic board assembly out of the outer case enough to grab the logic board by its edges. Pull the logic board assembly out of the outer case.

Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to peel the adhesive under the battery that secures it to the logic board.

Flip the battery upwards to reveal the solder pads soldered to the logic board. Before desoldering the battery, be sure to scrape the protective resin off both solder points.

Desolder the battery from the logic board by heating up the solder joint with a soldering iron and simultaneously using a pair of tweezers to pull the battery wire away from the logic board.Do not touch the + and - leads together.

DENON ASD-1R - CONTROL DOCK FOR IPOD – SCHEMATIC (CIRCUIT DIAGRAM)

DENON ASD-1R - CONTROL DOCK for iPod – SCHEMATIC (Circuit Diagram)

SCHEMATICS [CLICK ON THE PICTURES TO MAGNIFY]

PWB-COMPONENT SIDE

PWB-FOIL SIDE

HOW TO DISASSEMBLE PIONEER IPOD DOCKING SYSTEM XW-NAS5-S - XW-NAS5-K - XW-NAS5-W - XW-NAS5-R - XW-NAS3 SERVICE MODE AND POWER SUPPLY CIRCUIT

HOW TO DISASSEMBLE PIONEER IPOD DOCKING SYSTEM XW-NAS5-S - XW-NAS5-K - XW-NAS5-W - XW-NAS5-R - XW-NAS3 SERVICE MODE AND POWER SUPPLY CIRCUIT

IPOD DOCKING SYSTEM

PIONEER  XW-NAS5-S - XW-NAS5-K - XW-NAS5-W - XW-NAS5-R - XW-NAS3 

SERVICE MODE DISASSEMBLING AND POWER SUPPLY CIRCUIT 

BT ADAPTER related warning

1.The Bluetooth ADAPTER indicator blinks slowly. Err 5 displays on the display.

Power consumption by Bluetooth ADAPTER is too high to supply the power. Reconnect the Bluetooth ADAPTER.

2. The Bluetooth ADAPTER indicator blinks. Bt- A Displays on the display.

3. The Bluetooth ADAPTER indicator blinks slowly. No bt displays on the display

When cannot detect a device at BT function

SERVICE MODE

SERVICE TEST MODE

1. Conditions for Service Test Mode
# During Service Test mode, emergency shutdown will not be performed even if failure as shown below occurs (it is ignored).
# During Normal mode, even after emergency shutdown caused by detection of failure shown below, the unit can be turned on immediately, without waiting 1 minute after shutdown.

2. How to Enter Test Mode
# Press the "ESC" key then "+10" key of Service Remote Control unit (GGF1381). The unit is turned on in Test mode.
# The initial FUNCTION setting is iPod.
# (XW-NAS3 model) Depending on the conditions of the last power off before entering the Test mode, the POWER ON LED flashes in the pattern shown below in 4-second periods.
Note: In the following patterns, a high state denotes lit and a low state denotes unlit.
# (XW-NAS5 model) After entering the Test mode, the 7-segment LEDs are lit as shown below, depending on the conditions of the last power off before entering the Test mode.

[After normal power-off]
The LED is lit then unlit for 2 seconds.

[After shutdown caused by detection of an abnormally high temperature in the XOTW D-AMP] Error 2
After the LED flashes twice at intervals of 0.25 sec, it goes dark.

[After shutdown caused by detection of excess current in the SHUTDOWN D-AMP] Error 3
After the LED flashes 3 times at intervals of 0.25 sec, it goes dark.

[After shutdown caused by failure in the EEPROM] Error 6
After the LED flashes 6 times at intervals of 0.25 sec, it goes dark.

Notes:
# To exit Test mode, turn the unit off or unplug the AC power cord.
# When exiting Test mode, only the RAMs related with the above errors will be initialized.
(The RAMs that can be accessed by a user for settings will not be initialized.)

Operation during Test mode
Basically, the unit operates in the same way as in Normal mode.

Description of errors
# Errors are classified into the following types and are indicated by error indications when the unit is turned on.
[After a power error is detected] Error 1
# A power error was detected.
1. The voltage at the SW9V, SW5V, SW3.3V, or EV3.3V power supply unit exceeds the specified value because of an error.
2. The line to XDC_PRO Pin No.34 in the system control computer is short-circuited with ground or broken.
[After shutdown caused by detection of abnormally high temperature in the XOTW D-AMP] Error 2
# If “Err 2” is not displayed when the unit is turned on in Normal mode next time, this does not constitute an error. (A temporary temperature rise is suspected. Use the unit at a lower volume.)
# If “Err 2” is displayed again, the following causes are suspected:
1. The digital amp IC in the NSA DAMP Assy is in failure.
2. The XOTW line somewhere between the digital amp IC and the system control computer is short-circuited with ground or broken.
[After shutdown caused by detection of excess current in the XSHUTDOWN PCONFIG D-AMP] Error 3
# Disconnect the speakers then turn on the unit again. If the error indication persists, the following causes are suspected:
1. The digital amp IC in the NSA DAMP Assy is in failure. (DC is generated between + and – of the AMP BTL output.
2. An error was generated in a circuit located on the way to the XSHUTDOWN PCONFIG circuit.
3. Dirt may be attached around the AMP outputs.
[After shutdown caused by failure in the EEPROM] Error 6
1. The communication line to the EEPROM is broken or short-circuited.
2. The EEPROM (IC) is defective.

DISASSEMBLING

Bottom Assy

(1) Remove the four rubber cushions.

(2) Remove the four screws. (BPZ40P100FNI)
(3) Remove the left foot and right foot.
(4) Remove the bottom Assy.

Top Panel Section
Front grill Assy
(1) Remove it while expanding front grill Assy in right and left.

NSA DISPLAY Assy
(1) Disconnect the flexible cable.
(2) Remove the two screws. (VPZ30P100FTB)
(3) Remove the two timer assemblies.
(4) Remove the six screws. (BPZ30P080FTB)
(5) Remove the NSA DISPLAY Assy.
(4) Remove the six screws. (BPZ30P080FTB)
(5) Remove the NSA DISPLAY Assy.

Top panel section
(1) Remove the two screws. (BPZ30P120FTB)
(2) Remove the two screws. (BPZ30P080FTB)
(3) Remove the 10 screws. (BPZ40P100FNI)
(4) Remove the six screws. (BBZ30P100FTC

(5) Remove the top panel section.
(6) Remove the one screw. (BBZ30P060FNI)
(7) Disconnect the two flexible cables.

(8) Remove the five screws. (BPZ30P080FTB)
(9) Remove the iPod cover.

POWER SUPPLY CIRCUIT 

USING IC FAN5522

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PHILIPS DS1100 IPOD DOCKING SPEAKER DISASSEMBLING AND CIRCUIT DIAGRAM

PHILIPS DS1100 IPOD Docking speaker Disassembling and circuit diagram

PHILIPS DS1100

DISASSEMBLY DIAGRAM
Dismantling of the Bottom Cabinet

1) Remove 6 rubber feet A and 6 screws B as indicated to loosen the Bottom Cabinet.
2) Remove 6 screws C as indicated to loosen the speaker box bottom

Dismantling of the PCB Board.
1)Remove 4 screws D as indicated to loosen the Main Board.
2)Remove 2 screws E as indicated to loosen the USB Socket Board.

ICS USED IN THE CIRCUIT 

PT6964 LED Driver IC

DESCRIPTION
PT6964 is an LED Controller driven on a 1/5 to 1/8 duty factor. 10 segment output lines, 4 grid output lines, 3 segment/ grid output lines, one display memory, control circuit, key scan circuit are all incorporated into a single chip to build a highly reliable peripheral device for a single chip microcomputer. Serial data is fed to PT6964 via a three-line serial interface. Housed in a 28 pins SOP Package, PT6964 pin assignments and application circuit are optimized for easy PCB Layout and cost saving advantages.

FEATURES
# CMOS technology
# Low power consumption
3 Multiple display modes (10 segments, 7 grids to 13 segments, 4 grids)
# Key scanning (10 x 2 Matrix)
# 8-step dimming circuitry
# Serial interface for clock, data input, data output, strobe pins
# Available in 28 pins, SOP

PAM8403 FILTERLESS 3W CLASS-D STEREO AUDIO AMPLIFIER IC

Description
The PAM8403 is a 3W, class-D audio amplifier. It offers low THD+N, allowing it to achieve high-quality sound reproduction. The new filterless architecture allows the device to drive the speaker directly, requiring no low-pass output filters, thus saving system cost and PCB area. With the same numbers of external components, the efficiency of the PAM8403 is much better than that of Class-AB cousins. It can extend the battery life, which makes it well-suited for portable applications. The PAM8403 is available in SOP-16 package

Features
# 3W Output at 10% THD with a 4Ω Load and 5V Power Supply
# Filterless, Low Quiescent Current and Low EMI
# Low THD+N
# Superior Low Noise
# Efficiency up to 90%
# Short Circuit Protection
#Thermal Shutdown
# Few External Components to Save the Space and Cost
# Pb-Free Package

PIN CONFIGARATION

Pin Number	Pin Name	Function
1	+OUT_L	Left Channel Positive Output
2	PGND	Power GND
3	-OUT_L	Left Channel Negative Output
4	PVDD	Power VDD
5	MUTE	Mute Control Input (active low)
6	VDD	Analog VDD
7	INL	Left Channel Input
8	VREF	Internal analog reference, connect a bypass capacitor from VREF to GND.
9	NC	No Connact
10	INR	Right Channel Input
11	GND	Analog GND
12	SHND	Shutdown Control Input (active low)
13	PVDD	Power VDD
14	-OUT_R	Right Channel Negative Output
15	PGND	Power GND
16	+OUT_R	Right Channel Positive Output

SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM 

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APPLE IPOD TOUCH - DISPLAY REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE – STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTION TO REPLACE DISPLAY UNIT OF APPLE IPOD TOUCH – IPODS AND IPADS REPAIR AND SERVICE

Apple iPod Touch - Display replacement procedure – Step by step instruction to replace display unit of apple ipod touch – Ipods and ipads repair and service

Category: Ipads and Ipads Repair and Service 

Contents of this article 

• How to replace the display
• Step by step instruction 

Apple iPod Touch

PROCEDURE FOR REPLACING THE DISPLAY 

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPod's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

Soften the adhesive with hair dryer

The bottom of the screen (near the home button) is held in place with strong adhesive. Use a heat gun or hair dryer (low setting) to soften the adhesive. As you start prying the screen off in the next stages, you may need to apply more heat to keep the glue warm and flexible.

Center the suction cup on the lower section of the glass, with its edge centered over the home button. Press in firmly and make sure the cup has a strong seal.

Hold the iPod firmly against a table or bench. Place your thumb and index finger over the lower corners of the display to stop the display from opening too far when the adhesive breaks.

Lift the suction cup up and back toward the top of the iPod. Be patient, and pull with firm, constant force until the adhesive breaks and the display comes up from the rear case.
It may be necessary to use a heat gun to soften the adhesive (especially in cooler climates). If you can pry the screen apart, and the adhesive is still sticking and pulling apart like cheese topping on a pizza, you can slide a thin razor blade in and gently cut the adhesive.
After the display begins to lift from the rear case, be careful not to lift more than about an inch—a fragile plastic frame still connects the display assembly to the rear case.

In the following steps, you will be loosening and freeing the plastic frame that surrounds the screen. It is connected to the rear case with several clips.

 Starting at the top right of the device, insert a plastic opening tool into the gap between the plastic frame and the aluminum rear case.Slide the tool down this crack, loosening the frame from the case

Insert the plastic opening tool between the frame and the rear case behind the first clip. Rock the tool sideways, to spread the gap behind the clip and separate it from the rear case. This may not free the clip initially, but repeating the procedure for each clip will begin to loosen the piece.

Repeat the procedure with the next two clips on this side. You may have to go back and forth between the clips to free all of them. Take your time and be careful and patient, as the plastic frame is quite fragile.

Moving on to the left side of the device, insert a plastic opening tool into the gap between the plastic frame and the aluminum rear case near the top. Slide the tool down this crack, loosening the frame from the case.

Insert the plastic opening tool between the frame and the rear case behind the first clip on the left side. Rock the tool sideways, to spread the gap behind the clip and separate it from the rear case.

Repeat the procedure with the next two clips on this side. Insert the plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and aluminum rear case behind the second clip. Rock the tool sideways, loosening the clip from the case.

Using the same procedure, loosen the last clip securing the plastic frame to the rear case.

Insert the plastic opening tool between the display assembly and the rear case near the top of the iPod. Slightly twist the opening tool to pry the front panel up from the rear case. Separate the display assembly from the iPod. Do not try to completely remove the front panel, as it is still connected by several cables.

Gently fold the display over away from the rest of the iPod, taking care not to disconnect or break any of the ribbon cables. Set the two halves flat on a table or bench. Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button switch up from the LCD plate. It may be necessary to use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive on the back of the home button. Always use a low heat setting.

Do not attempt to remove the home button switch, as it is connected to components below the LCD plate.

Remove the following screws securing the LCD plate to the rear case:

Two 1.2 mm #00 Phillips screws
Nine 1.6 mm #00 Phillips screws
One 2.3 mm #00 Phillips screw

Lift up and remove the LCD plate from the iPod.

Remove three 1.6 mm #00 Phillips screws securing the logic board to the rear case.

Warm back of iPod with heat gun or hair dryer

There are two strips of adhesive keeping the battery in place. Turn the iPod over and heat the BACK of the aluminium iPod case.
Do not heat the battery. The aluminium case does not have to be hot; you should always be able to touch heated parts with your fingers at all times without it being uncomfortable.

There are three notches on either side of the battery. In the next few steps, you will be using these notches to gradually pry the battery up from the rear case. The battery is secured with large amounts of adhesive, so you'll need to go slowly and carefully to avoid puncturing or creasing the battery. Insert a plastic opening tool into the top right notch and gently pry up on the battery. Do not attempt to pry up the entire battery at this point; you just want to start to loosen the adhesive at each of the prying points, in turn.

Continue with the lower right notch. Insert the plastic opening tool into the notch, and gently pry up on the side of the battery.

Continue prying the battery up from the bottom. When prying along the bottom, be careful not to press down too hard against the speaker or headphone jack.

Pry along the left side as well. You may need to move back and forth between the sides and bottom of the battery, prying a small amount at a time until the battery is entirely free from the adhesive.

Once all of the adhesive is loosened, lift the battery up from the bottom and swing it out over the left side of the rear case. Be sure not to yank it out, as it is soldered to the logic board. Flip the battery over to straighten its cable and set it down.

Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the front-facing camera out of its socket in the display assembly.

Use the tip of a spudger to peel back a small piece of tape covering a screw on the side of the headphone jack.

Remove the following screws securing the headphone jack, Lightning connector, and speaker.

Three 2.6 mm #00 Phillips screws
Two 2.0 mm #00 Phillips screws

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the speaker up from the rear case.
Do not try to remove the speaker, a it is soldered to the Lightning connector assembly.

Grasping the large ribbon cable, gently pull the Lightning connector assembly out of the bottom of the case.

Flip the entire assembly over, exposing the back of the logic board. Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable from the logic board.

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display cable from its socket in the logic board.

Flip the Lightning connector/logic board assembly back over to expose the top of the logic board. The display cable is lightly adhered to the top of the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the display cable up from the logic board.

Remove the display assembly from the iPod