REPAIRING AND NOT THROWING AWAY

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

In Brief: On this site you will find pictures and technical information about Service Modes, Circuit Diagrams, Firmware Update procedure, Disassemble procedure, Universal remote control set-up codes, Troubleshooting and more....

If you go into the profession, you will obtain or have access to a variety of tech tips databases HERE IT IS Master Electronics Repair !.

These are an excellent investment where the saying: 'time-is-money' rules. However, to learn, you need to develop a general troubleshooting approach - a logical, methodical, method of narrowing down the problem. A tech tip database might suggest: 'Replace C536' for a particular symptom. This is good advice for a specific problem on one model. However, what you really want to understand is why C536 was the cause and how to pinpoint the culprit in general even if you don't have a service manual or schematic and your tech tip database doesn't have an entry for your sick TV or VCR.

While schematics are nice, you won't always have them or be able to justify the purchase for a one-of repair. Therefore, in many cases, some reverse engineering will be necessary. The time will be well spent since even if you don't see another instance of the same model in your entire lifetime, you will have learned something in the process that can be applied to other equipment problems.
As always, when you get stuck, checking out a tech-tips database may quickly identify your problem and solution.In that case, you can greatly simplify your troubleshooting or at least confirm a diagnosis before ordering parts.

Happy repairing!
Today, the West is headed for the abyss. For the ultimate fate of our disposable society is for that society itself to be disposed of. And this will happen sooner, rather than later.

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Sunday 16 February 2020

REPAIR / SERVICING TV PHILIPS 46PFL5507 - Q552.4E - DPS130 - DEAD STAND-BY - TROUBLESHOOTING SHORTED CERAMIC C910 - OPEN RESISTOR R915 - DEAD CHIPS DDA010 ST9M101

PHILIPS 46PFL5507 - Q552.4E - DPS130  - TROUBLESHOOTING SHORTED CERAMIC C910 - OPEN RESISTOR R915 - DEAD CHIPS DDA010, ST9M101

This Philips did not do anything once plugged in. Not even the stand-by light was on. That's a pretty clear indication of a broken standby supply. I could not measure any voltages coming out of the power supply and quickly concentrated on debugging the stand by circuit.


That was pretty tough. I found out that the PWM chip did not have its required VCC activation voltage. The reason for that was the open 2.2 Ohm fuse resistor R915, which is connected directly to the main capacitor's V+. The diodes all measured ok. The PWM chip had no short, neither had the line, which the resistor was connected to, so I soldered in a 2.2 Ohm resistor to check.



Booom! It took a fraction of a second to kill the new resistor. How is that possible? There was no measurable short and neither did I find any burn marks anywhere.

After some intensive research, I found a schematic in a Russian forum thread, which fit my power supply model DPS-130 well enough. The only component left, which could cause a short, was the capacitor C910. A 1kV 22pF thingy, which did not look suspicious at all. I unsoldered it and voilà! No reading. It was dead, but not with a measurable short. My DY294 transistor tester confirmed the high voltage instability. Amazing how it did survive without any burn marks.

For a quick and dirty test I replaced the cap with a 4kV 33pF and the open resistor again. Supply not working. At least the short was fixed. Thus, the PWM chip must be broken, too. It still did not charge the starter capacitor (which tested ok, by the way) with Vcc. It is responsible for starting itself up once V+ is present at its drain pin. After the startup phase, it would feed itself through a secondary winding in the transformer.

I ordered 22pF 4kV caps via eBay and DDA010 chips via AliExpress. Three weeks later, the DDA010 arrived. I swapped it and the 22pF cap. Supply still not working. The PWM chip did not build up its Vcc startup voltage. I measured again. There was a constant 100 Ohms against ground on the Vcc rail. Under those circumstances, the starter capacitor cannot charge!

The only suspicious part left was IC902, an ST9M101. The original is impossible to find. The alternative part number is IM1M101. The documentation of this chip is ridicoulous. It is used to sense the presence of the high input voltage. It can disable the PWM chip.



A jumper wire was conveniently located between the PWM VCC line and IC902. I opened it up and finally, the PWM chip was starting. However, it rebooted in a loop. IC902 was definitely defect, too (or maybe the PWM chip had not been dead in the first place). IC902 is also connected to the FB (feedback) line of the PWM chip and I assumed it was causing some trouble there, too.



Enough with the blondes already, hallo Frau Green!




(FROM:alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com)