REPAIRING AND NOT THROWING AWAY

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

In Brief: On this site you will find pictures and technical information about Service Modes, Circuit Diagrams, Firmware Update procedure, Disassemble procedure, Universal remote control set-up codes, Troubleshooting and more....

If you go into the profession, you will obtain or have access to a variety of tech tips databases HERE IT IS Master Electronics Repair !.

These are an excellent investment where the saying: 'time-is-money' rules. However, to learn, you need to develop a general troubleshooting approach - a logical, methodical, method of narrowing down the problem. A tech tip database might suggest: 'Replace C536' for a particular symptom. This is good advice for a specific problem on one model. However, what you really want to understand is why C536 was the cause and how to pinpoint the culprit in general even if you don't have a service manual or schematic and your tech tip database doesn't have an entry for your sick TV or VCR.

While schematics are nice, you won't always have them or be able to justify the purchase for a one-of repair. Therefore, in many cases, some reverse engineering will be necessary. The time will be well spent since even if you don't see another instance of the same model in your entire lifetime, you will have learned something in the process that can be applied to other equipment problems.
As always, when you get stuck, checking out a tech-tips database may quickly identify your problem and solution.In that case, you can greatly simplify your troubleshooting or at least confirm a diagnosis before ordering parts.

Happy repairing!
Today, the West is headed for the abyss. For the ultimate fate of our disposable society is for that society itself to be disposed of. And this will happen sooner, rather than later.

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..............The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of todays funny gadgets low price has faded from memory........ . . . . . .....
Don't forget the past, the end of the world is upon us! Pretty soon it will all turn to dust!

©2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 Frank Sharp - You do not have permission to copy photos and words from this blog, and any content may be never used it for auctions or commercial purposes, however feel free to post anything you see here with a courtesy link back, btw a link to the original post here , is mandatory.
All posts are presented here for informative, historical and educative purposes as applicable within fair use. NOTHING HERE IS FOR SALE !

Monday, 4 March 2019

APPLE IPAD AIR 2 - DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE – BATTERY REMOVAL - FROND CAMERA REMOVAL – WIFI ANTENNA REMOVAL – LOGIC BOARD REMOVAL – IPAD AND IPOD REPAIR AND SERVICE

Apple iPad Air 2 - Disassembling procedure – Battery removal - frond camera removal – Wifi antenna removal – Logic board removal – Ipad and Ipod repair and service

Category: Ipads and Ipods Repair and Service 

Contents of this article 

  • LCD and touchscreen removal 
  • Battery removal 
  • Wifi antenna removal 


Apple iPad Air 2

DISSEMBLING PROCEDURE 
LCD and Touch Screen
To open up the iPad Air 2, use the heat gun or a blow dryer to loosen the adhesive around the edges of the display assembly (LCD and touch screen). Insert the plastic triangle pry tool in the seam between the display assembly and the rear case. Work your way around the perimeter of the tablet to release the display assembly from its securing adhesive.
With the iPad Air 2 opened, we notice all of the display cables are located near the lower edge. You will see three small Phillips screws securing a metal cover over the display assembly’s ribbon cables, use the small Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws and then lift the metal cover up. Next, use the nylon spudger to disconnect the display assembly’s connections and completely remove the LCD and touch screen assembly from the iPad Air 2.
Home Button Assembly
Now turn your attention to the iPad Air 2 Home Button Assembly. Remove the black tape covering the home button’s connection and then release the home button assembly’s ribbon cable.
The home button assembly and the protective metal bracket are secured in place with a small amount of adhesive, use the heat gun or a blow dryer to loosen the adhesive.
Lift up the left side of the metal bracket to remove it and gain access to the home button assembly. Gently pry up the home button assembly and remove it from the iPad Air 2 display assembly.
Loudspeaker Units
Toward the bottom of the iPad Air 2 rear case/housing are the loudspeaker units. The loudspeaker ribbon cables are covered with black tape, use the fine tip curved tweezers to remove the tape and release the connections.
Now, use the small Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the loudspeaker units in place. Carefully pry up and lift the loudspeaker units out of the Apple tablet’s rear case.
Front-Facing HD Camera
There is a metal bracket across the top of the mother board secured with four Phillips screws; remove the screws and bracket from the iPad Air 2. Use the fine tipped curved tweezers to disconnect the front-facing camera’s ribbon cable. With the spudger pry up the front-facing camera and remove it from the foam tape holding it to the rear housing.
Headphone Jack & Left Ambient Light Sensor
Use the fine tip curved tweezers to disconnect the headphone jack and the left ambient light sensor’s ribbon cable from the motherboard. With the Phillips screwdriver remove the two small Phillips screws securing the metal cover over the headphone jack and left ambient light sensor. Use the spudger to remove the cover. This will reveal an additional Phillips screw that holds the headphone jack in place. Remove the screw and then use the heat gun or a blow dryer to loosen the adhesive holding the headphone jack ribbon cable in place. With the tweezers carefully remove the iPad Air 2 headphone jack and left ambient light sensor.
Wi-Fi Antennas
With the fine tip curved tweezers disconnect the two Wi-Fi antenna coaxial cables. Each antenna, located toward the top of the iPad Air 2, is held in place with four small Phillips screws (three on top of the antenna and one underneath). Use the Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws and then with the spudger gently rouse each Wi-Fi antenna from their foamy beds.
Rear-Facing Camera
In the top right corner of the iPad Air 2 remove the small Phillips screw located to the left of the rear-facing camera connection. With the fine tipped curved tweezers disconnect the rear-facing camera’s ribbon cable, and then utilize the spudger to pry up the rear-facing camera and remove it from the adhesive securing it in place.
Power Button Cable, Mic & Right Ambient Light Sensor
With the fine tip curved tweezers disconnect the ribbon cable for the power button, mic and right ambient light sensor (be mindful of the alignment pin). Then use the small Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws and bracket securing the cable in place. With the screws and bracket removed use the spudger or fine tip curved tweezers to pry the power button cable up and out of the iPad Air 2 tablet.
Volume Button Ribbon Cable & Mic
There is a cover secured by a single Phillips screw over the iPad Air 2 volume button ribbon cable connection. Once the cover and screw are removed, use the fine tip curved tweezers to disconnect the volume button ribbon cable from the logic board. There are four Phillips screws holding a bracket and the volume button ribbon cable to the iPad’s rear case. With the bracket and screws removed, use the fine tip curved tweezers to carefully release the mic from its housing and pry the volume button cable and mic up and out of the Apple tablet.
Lightning Port Connection
Use the fine tip curved tweezers to remove the black tape covering the lightning port connection. With the small Phillips screwdriver remove the four screws securing the lightning port connection in place. With the screws removed maneuver the lightning port up and out of its housing in the rear case. The iPad Air 2 lightning port is soldered to the logic board and cannot be removed separately
Logic Board and Battery
With the Phillips screwdriver remove the single screw securing the battery’s connection. The logic board and battery are glued to the iPad’s rear case; use the heat gun or blow dryer to heat the area directly to the left of the Apple logo. Carefully pry the logic board up and out of the rear case with the spudger.With the logic board out of the way more heat will need to be applied to the rear case to help pry free the dual-cell battery with the spudger.