REPAIRING AND NOT THROWING AWAY

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

In Brief: On this site you will find pictures and technical information about Service Modes, Circuit Diagrams, Firmware Update procedure, Disassemble procedure, Universal remote control set-up codes, Troubleshooting and more....

If you go into the profession, you will obtain or have access to a variety of tech tips databases HERE IT IS Master Electronics Repair !.

These are an excellent investment where the saying: 'time-is-money' rules. However, to learn, you need to develop a general troubleshooting approach - a logical, methodical, method of narrowing down the problem. A tech tip database might suggest: 'Replace C536' for a particular symptom. This is good advice for a specific problem on one model. However, what you really want to understand is why C536 was the cause and how to pinpoint the culprit in general even if you don't have a service manual or schematic and your tech tip database doesn't have an entry for your sick TV or VCR.

While schematics are nice, you won't always have them or be able to justify the purchase for a one-of repair. Therefore, in many cases, some reverse engineering will be necessary. The time will be well spent since even if you don't see another instance of the same model in your entire lifetime, you will have learned something in the process that can be applied to other equipment problems.
As always, when you get stuck, checking out a tech-tips database may quickly identify your problem and solution.In that case, you can greatly simplify your troubleshooting or at least confirm a diagnosis before ordering parts.

Happy repairing!
Today, the West is headed for the abyss. For the ultimate fate of our disposable society is for that society itself to be disposed of. And this will happen sooner, rather than later.

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..............The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of todays funny gadgets low price has faded from memory........ . . . . . .....
Don't forget the past, the end of the world is upon us! Pretty soon it will all turn to dust!

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Monday 4 February 2019

HOW TO REPAIR SAMSUNG LCD DISPLAY PANEL - V260B1-L04 – PN: BN07 00364A

How to repair Samsung LCD display panel - V260B1-L04 – PN: BN07 00364A

BN07-00364A ( V260B1-L04 ) - LE26R32 , LE26R81 Samsung LCD panel repair procedure
In case of panel failure of LCD-TV using BN07-00364A ( V260B1-L04 ) - LE26R32 , LE26R81 ,usually met below symptoms:
* Blank image (white) at startup ,correct image appearing after 5-20 min - sometimes over blank image appear some H-lines, the number of lines and position on display is different at consecutive startups.
* During operation , the image becomes “still” and after turning to white , disappearing. In both above cases the display is sensitive when torsion it, close to moment the image appear (first case) or “still” ( second case ) .
The cause of above symptoms is the failure of one of contacts between the first IC-FPCB in the upper-left corner of display and upper long and narrow PCB of display.
Unlike the rest of FPCBs with drivers for vertical lines , this one have some circuits that just passing through it , to some circuits over panel glass , and through these , to the first of three drivers for H-lines on.  Left side of panel glass. The access to “long-and-narrow” PCB in the upper part of display and to FPCBs is only possible after removing of front metal frame of LCD display (fixed in 10 screws). The T-Con board must also be removed.
The repair solution described below requires good skills, so please don’t do it if you haven’t done operations of similar complexity.
In pictures P01, P04, P05, P06 is described the correspondence between pads on first upper H-driver (note that pads are accessible below H-driver FPCB when LCD display is on the table ) .
Attention: all of these pads (numbered in P01 from 1 to 15) are covered with a green flexible paint.  To detect the interrupted circuit, please scratch gently the paint on the center of each pad (P03.jpg) to can contact them with the tester of multi-meter.  It is recommend to use for scratch a new surgical scalpel (curved , not straight ) . It is very important that the scalpel to be a new one, not a blunt one.
Attention: Be careful when scratch center of pads; don’t touch with scalpel the thin circuits near the pads.
The following pictures will talk to you all details. Click on the pictures to magnify

For easily access to pads and to avoid the dust and foreign materials to enter between backlight and LCD panel carefully and gently lift up the driver FPCB and fix it with adhesive tape in vertical position to don’t excessive stress the FPCB , but enough to can access the pads with scalpel , tester and soldering iron .  If you consider unsafe lifting of driver FPCB, is better to lift the whole LCD-panel (glass) and put it “up side down “ but take care of any dust and foreign object to avoid dirty the display . Take care also of driver FPCBs between the long upper PCB and display, don’t excessive stress them .
The most frequent circuit found interrupted is that one corresponding to pad numbered 10 (P01.jpg) and indicated in P03D.jpg.
For easily measurement, please measure the continuity of this circuit to the pad numbered 10 in P06.jpg, 
near the connector to T-Con board.
You can read below the normal resistance values for all circuits (all are so big values because of thin circuits on the glass) .
There are also the normal voltage value that can be measured during function and the voltage drop on each circuit (where is not specified, is below 0.1mV)
Note that pads numbered with 11, 12 , 14 are not connected , so no need to measure them .
1 -> 1st line (-5.5V)
2 -> 13Ω ( -5.51V , 7mV )
3 -> 17Ω ( +21V , 12mV )
4 -> 13Ω ( -5.51V , 8mV )
5 -> 50Ω ( 3.29V , 4.1mV )
6 -> 61Ω ( GND , 3.5mV )
7 -> 91Ω ( 3.3V )
8 -> 84Ω ( 917mV )
9 -> 84Ω ( 1.73V )
10 -> 84Ω
13 -> 20Ω ( +5.37V )
15 -> 84Ω ( 3.3V )
In case you find interrupted circuit corresponding to pad 10 ( or resistance >> 84 Ω ) , this must be bypassed with a thin wire CuEm φ 0.15 mm ( thermoplastic insulation preferably ) .
Please cut first the wire at 120mm length and tin it with soldering iron ( max 1mm ) .  Also , tin with soldering iron ( adjusted at 270°C )the pad numbered 10 on FPCB , only where paint is scratched ( P07.jpg ) . Please use normal soldering alloy ( 40/60 ) not Lead-free .
All these operations must be done with the display disconnected (and completely isolated from any metal part of table ) , using the antistatic bracelet connected to soldering iron ground contact .
Please solder an end of prepared thin wire to pad 10 (P08.jpg, P09.jpg).
Release the driver FPCB by carefully and gently unstuck of adhesive tape. Don’t excessive stress the FPCB. Prepare a 5mm strip of adhesive tape and stick the FPCB (P10.jpg) .
Position carefully the wire (P11.jpg), fixing it from place to place with thin (3mm) strips of adhesive tape.
Find the crossing hole numbered 10 in P04.jpg , P05.jpg and tin it with soldering iron .
If you consider difficult to use this point to solder the wire , you can use the pad near the T-Con connector ( P06.jpg) – but you must use a longer wire . You also must take care to isolate it along its route.
Solder the end of wire on prepared cross hole ( P13.jpg , P14.jpg , P15.jpg ) - or to above specified point , and after , fix the rest of wire (P13.jpg ) .
In case you don’t find at first measurement an evident interruption of circuit corresponding to pad 10 , before solder the wire to cross hole connect again the ohmmeter between end of wire and pad 10 near connector , and gently touch the side of upper driver FPCB ( the side near the display side ) and look for a resistance variation . If you don’t observe any variation, you must search another interrupted circuit, and bypass it too.
( 10 must be bypassed anyway )