REPAIRING AND NOT THROWING AWAY

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

In Brief: On this site you will find pictures and technical information about Service Modes, Circuit Diagrams, Firmware Update procedure, Disassemble procedure, Universal remote control set-up codes, Troubleshooting and more....

If you go into the profession, you will obtain or have access to a variety of tech tips databases HERE IT IS Master Electronics Repair !.

These are an excellent investment where the saying: 'time-is-money' rules. However, to learn, you need to develop a general troubleshooting approach - a logical, methodical, method of narrowing down the problem. A tech tip database might suggest: 'Replace C536' for a particular symptom. This is good advice for a specific problem on one model. However, what you really want to understand is why C536 was the cause and how to pinpoint the culprit in general even if you don't have a service manual or schematic and your tech tip database doesn't have an entry for your sick TV or VCR.

While schematics are nice, you won't always have them or be able to justify the purchase for a one-of repair. Therefore, in many cases, some reverse engineering will be necessary. The time will be well spent since even if you don't see another instance of the same model in your entire lifetime, you will have learned something in the process that can be applied to other equipment problems.
As always, when you get stuck, checking out a tech-tips database may quickly identify your problem and solution.In that case, you can greatly simplify your troubleshooting or at least confirm a diagnosis before ordering parts.

Happy repairing!
Today, the West is headed for the abyss. For the ultimate fate of our disposable society is for that society itself to be disposed of. And this will happen sooner, rather than later.

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..............The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of todays funny gadgets low price has faded from memory........ . . . . . .....
Don't forget the past, the end of the world is upon us! Pretty soon it will all turn to dust!

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Friday 8 February 2019

SONY VPL HS20 _ DISASSEMBLE PROCEDURE _ PRISM BLOCK SERVICE _ SERVICE MODE ENTRY & EXIT _ LAMP TIMER RESET

VPL HS20 _ DISASSEMBLE PROCEDURE _ PRISM BLOCK SERVICE _ SERVICE MODE ENTRY & EXIT _ LAMP TIMER RESET






The only device on the VPL-HS20 with a specified service life is the lamp. It is easily accessed through the lamp cover door and can be replaced by the customer. The circuit boards are stacked together and joined by board-to board hard connectors or conventional or flat wire cables. If access to the boards is required, an extender kit (PN A-1606-452-A) is needed. The kit has a large number of extender boards and cables. Since the unit is considered board level repair, this kit should not be needed in most cases. 



CIRCUIT BOARD EXTENDER KIT





Click on image.  Right click on the enlarged image, save image as, to a folder (My document > My  Pictures). 



DISASSEMBLY




Six screws are to be removed from the bottom of the unit near the outer edges. Try to remove all of the screws (they are quite long), as this will make it easier to remove the side panel. This is especially true of the screw at the front left.

With the unit sitting upright, gently lift the top cover at the rear of the unit no more than 2-3 inches. Pull back on the cover to remove it from under the front panel lip, being careful to move it just enough to release it. These precautions are necessary due to the cable attached to the Sony logo light on the top cover and connecting to the C board. It is easy to rip off the female end of the connectors attached to the circuit boards.

Remove the cable where it attaches to the C board (CN305).
Remove the side cover, starting at the right front, by gently tilting it upward and sliding it towards the rear. The HA and HB boards are mounted on this side of the panel. There is a connector at the very front on top of the HA board that must be disconnected to prevent pulling out the LED indicator board on the front panel. This will not damage anything, but the fan assembly will have to be removed to reinstall the board.  The other cable going from the HB board to CN302 on the C board has adequate working length. This cable must be plugged in for the unit to function.  The left side of the panel can now be removed. Disconnect the cable running from the rear IR sensor by unplugging it where it attaches to the C board (CN304). A plastic retainer holds this side in and pushing inward towards the lens will release the lock. This is illustrated in Figure 10-5. Gently lift the side panel slightly upward and then back and it should release.






TOP COVER REMOVAL






RIGHT SIDE COVER REMOVAL






LEFT SIDE COVER REMOVAL






SERVICING PRISM BLOCK




The prism block assembly contains the necessary mirrors to re-converge the red, green and blue light output from each LCD panel and direct the sources to a single lens for projection of the image. Under normal circumstances, this assembly should provide thousands of hours of use. Improper maintenance by the end user (failure to clean or change air filter on a regular basis), along with unusually long operating times (six or more hours a day on a regular basis) can cause damage to the polarizing filters for each LCD panel along with potential damage to the panels themselves. The extreme heat generated by the lamp combined with the small confines of a compact unit contributes to this.

Symptoms of heat damage to the LCD panels and/or polarizing filters will vary depending on the amount of damage they incur. In mild cases, a shift in white balance will occur. Severe cases will cause blotches of discoloration on the projected image.

The structure of the light box assembly uses dichroic and front-surface mirrors to split the white light from the lamp into the necessary color spectrum for each LCD panel. The red LCD receives light first. A slightly longer path is required for the green LCD with the blue being the furthest from the light source. This arrangement creates a situation where the red LCD and polarizing filters receive the most heat and are therefore subject to damage easier than the other panels. The green follows next, with the blue least likely to be affected. The blue could eventually be damaged but the customer will invariably request service on the unit before heat damage extends to this point. Identifying a potentially damaged LCD or polarizing filter will be covered next.



IDENTIFYING PRISM BLOCK FAILURE




As mentioned earlier, shifts in color balance and/or blotches of discoloration are signs of problems with the LCD panels and/or polarizing filters. Although these symptoms could be caused by the video processing or gamma correction settings, it is unlikely they are the cause unless the customer or a technician unfamiliar with the unit has altered these in any way.



The simplest procedure to isolate an electronic problem is to unplug the flexible cables connecting each LCD panel to the C board. Liquid crystals, by nature, reside in an aligned condition. The application of voltages are what cause the “twisting” to block incoming light at varying levels. By removing the cables, all light is allowed to pass through the panels. If white balance or blotches of discoloration are still present, the problem lies within the prism block. This is also a good way to identify contamination from dust or other particulates.


It is extremely important that the technician follow proper ESD grounding procedures when handling the flexible cables. The LCD drivers and panels are highly susceptible to ESD. The connectors for the cables are also unique. The clasp that secures the cable is lifted up to release and pushed down to lock. In this type of locking connector, the cable sits on top of the clasp rather than underneath. These connectors are fragile and are easily damaged.






EXAMINING THE PRISM BLOCK




Removal of the C board allows full access to the prism block. There are two polarizing filters for each LCD panel identified as “in” and “out”. The in-polarizing filters are located on the outside of each LCD panel. They can be removed without having to remove the prism block. By removing the single silver screw securing each one, they can be lifted out for examination.

Note that the screw hole in each polarizing filter is slotted, not round. This allows for rotation of the filter and proper alignment to the LCD crystals. The mounting screw will have made a small indentation in the plastic retainer of the filter and serves as a positioning guide when it is re-installed  Be certain to install each filter in its correct location as they are unique to each color. The filters will have a small colored dot on the bottom edge to identify it.






Heat damage to the filters will vary from mild discoloration to severe melting of the film coating of the glass plate.  Minor discoloration is difficult to see, but can be more easily viewed if the filter is laid on top of a yellow colored paper. White paper suffices, but yellow appears to be the most effective.




Two most common symptoms of heat damage. The first figure has been enhanced with photo editing software to exaggerate the symptom for illustration purposes. The discoloration is usually subtle.  The second figure illustrates an extremely damaged filter. Extreme heating of the filter guarantees damage to the LCD panel. Minor discoloration may or may not be an indicator of LCD damage, but requires the removal of the prism block for further examination.



Heat damaged Polorizers









The prism block is secured to the optical block by two 2.6X8mm black screws positioned diagonally. Once these are removed, the prism block is easily lifted upward.



 The corresponding LCD panel for any polarizing filter exhibiting heat damage should be closely examined for damage. The most common symptom is a bubble easily seen on the surface of the panel. If any surface flaws appear on a panel, the prism block must be replaced. If the LCD panels appear intact, the required polarizing filter(s) can be replaced. As noted earlier, failure to service the air filter is the most common cause of heat damage to the prism block. It would be a good idea to remind the customer of this. Customer maintenance procedures are clearly covered in the owner’s manual.






TO ENTER SERVICE MODE



  • The service mode on the VPL-HS20 is accessed through the customer menu. It is normally hidden from the customer’s view. Using the remote commander while the unit is powered up, press “ENTER”, “ENTER”, “LEFT” and “ENTER” in sequence. A prompt will appear on the screen asking if you wish to enter the factory mode. 
  • Press the “UP” key on the remote and the unit is now in service mode. This sequence will add two new groups to the customer setup menu. Press the “MENU” button to view.


Service mode cannot be entered if the input selection is set to Memory Stick. If the unit has been unplugged from AC power, it will enter this input by default. Select any other video input. While you are pressing the key sequence, an “Invalid Key” prompt will appear on the screen as you press each key. This is normal.


  • The first group added displays information about the unit such as the ROM version, along with lamp and total operating hours. The second group displays a menu of items that can be adjusted and are usually performed when the prism block or B board is replaced. You should not have to perform these adjustments in most cases.  Current service policy as of this writing requires that any confirmation of a prism block failure be sent to our CPC division in Laredo, TX.

TO EXIT SERVICE MODE

  • Unlike all of the consumer televisions, the service mode is not exited automatically by turning the power off. The same key sequence as mentioned above must be repeated. The prompt will once again appear on the screen asking if you would like to return to the “user mode”. Press the “UP” key to hide the service adjustments.
LAMP TIMER RESET

Whenever the lamp is replaced, the lamp timer should be reset. With the unit in the “factory” mode, press “RESET”, “LEFT”, “RIGHT” and “ENTER” on the remote commander. Verify the lamp hours have been reset to zero in the service menu.