Master Electronics Repair !

Welcome to Master Electronics Repair! website.Here you will find:Service Modes, Circuit Diagrams,Service manuals, Firmware Update procedure, Disassemble procedure, Universal remote control setup codes, Troubleshooting, Diagnosing, Measuring, and more.... of many of LCD/LED TV/Displays,others various electronic apparates,trough many technical notes and tips/tricks to help repairing/fixing Troubles/ faults,for electrical technicians.This site helps you to save the Earth from electronic waste!

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

In Brief: On this site you will find pictures and technical information about Service Modes, Circuit Diagrams, Firmware Update procedure, Disassemble procedure, Universal remote control set-up codes, Troubleshooting and more....

If you go into the profession, you will obtain or have access to a variety of tech tips databases HERE IT IS Master Electronics Repair !.

These are an excellent investment where the saying: 'time-is-money' rules. However, to learn, you need to develop a general troubleshooting approach - a logical, methodical, method of narrowing down the problem. A tech tip database might suggest: 'Replace C536' for a particular symptom. This is good advice for a specific problem on one model. However, what you really want to understand is why C536 was the cause and how to pinpoint the culprit in general even if you don't have a service manual or schematic and your tech tip database doesn't have an entry for your sick TV or VCR.

While schematics are nice, you won't always have them or be able to justify the purchase for a one-of repair. Therefore, in many cases, some reverse engineering will be necessary. The time will be well spent since even if you don't see another instance of the same model in your entire lifetime, you will have learned something in the process that can be applied to other equipment problems.
As always, when you get stuck, checking out a tech-tips database may quickly identify your problem and solution.In that case, you can greatly simplify your troubleshooting or at least confirm a diagnosis before ordering parts.

Happy repairing!

Today, the West is headed for the abyss. For the ultimate fate of our disposable society is for that society itself to be disposed of. And this will happen sooner, rather than later.

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..............The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of todays funny gadgets low price has faded from memory........ . . . . . .....
Don't forget the past, the end of the world is upon us! Pretty soon it will all turn to dust!

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Tuesday, 5 February 2019

JBL MEDIA – 4 2-WAY 5" POWERED MULTIMEDIA SPEAKER SYSTEM CIRCUIT DIAGRAM - DISASSEMBLY

Jbl Media – 4 2-way 5" Powered Multimedia Speaker System circuit diagram - disassembly

Used ICs: NJM2902 – 4558 – TA8210AH

Removing the front grille:
The grille gasket is held in place by friction fit. In the slot on the top between the grille gasket and the cabinet, place a wide flat tool and slowly begin to wedge the screen/gasket off. Continuing to carefully wedge the grille off by working your way around the gasket..
You may wish to cover the tip of the flat tool you are using with cloth so as to minimize the damage, you may inflict on the cabinet. Main body separation:
Unscrew the 6 screws around the perimeter of the baffle’s front surface. Again, using caution to not damage the cabinet, place a flat tool in the side and bottom channels and slowly begin wedging the baffle off. Note this assembly has areas of hot glue connecting the baffle and the cabinet together at the left and right side of the upper body. Considerable effort may be needed.

Removing the rear terminal cup: Pull the volume knob off. Remove the 4 screws holding the rear terminal cup on. Note this will release the internal air seal cup, containing the volume and the jack PCB assemblies from the air seal cup, you will need to cut the air seal on the cup surface to allow removal. Heat sink and the main PCB removal The heat sink is removed by unscrewing 4 screws connecting it to the cabinet housing. The main PCB can be removed from the heat sink by unscrewing 2 screws from the back side of the main PCB into the heat sink and 2 screws through IC601 into the heat sink. Do not unscrew this assembly, unless necessary. Speaker removal: The woofer can be removed by unscrewing 4 screws on the front of the baffle. The tweeter can be removed by unscrewing 2 screws on the tweeter conncting it to the insdie of the baffle. Slave speaker: Removing the front grille: The grille gasket is held in place by a friction fit. In the slot on the top between the grille gasket and the cabinet, place a wide flat tool and slowly begin to wedge the screen/gasket off. Continuing to carefully wedge the grille off by working your way around the gasket. You may wish to covner the tip of the flat tool you are using with cloth so as to minimize the damage (scarring) you may inflict on the cabinet. Main body separation: Unscrew 6 screws around the perimeter of the baffle’s front surface. Again using caution to not damage the cabinet, place a flat tool in the side and and the bottom channels and slowly begin wedging the baffle off. Note this assembly has areas of hot glue connecting the baffle and the cabinet together at the left and right sides of the upper body. Considerable effort may needed. Removing the rear terminal cup: Remove the 4 screws holding the rear terminal cup on. Speaker removal: The woofer can be removed by unscrewing the 4 screws on the front of the baffle. The tweeter can be removed by unscrewing the 2 screws on the tweeter connecting it to the inside of the baffle.

Exploded view