REPAIRING AND NOT THROWING AWAY

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

In Brief: On this site you will find pictures and technical information about Service Modes, Circuit Diagrams, Firmware Update procedure, Disassemble procedure, Universal remote control set-up codes, Troubleshooting and more....

If you go into the profession, you will obtain or have access to a variety of tech tips databases HERE IT IS Master Electronics Repair !.

These are an excellent investment where the saying: 'time-is-money' rules. However, to learn, you need to develop a general troubleshooting approach - a logical, methodical, method of narrowing down the problem. A tech tip database might suggest: 'Replace C536' for a particular symptom. This is good advice for a specific problem on one model. However, what you really want to understand is why C536 was the cause and how to pinpoint the culprit in general even if you don't have a service manual or schematic and your tech tip database doesn't have an entry for your sick TV or VCR.

While schematics are nice, you won't always have them or be able to justify the purchase for a one-of repair. Therefore, in many cases, some reverse engineering will be necessary. The time will be well spent since even if you don't see another instance of the same model in your entire lifetime, you will have learned something in the process that can be applied to other equipment problems.
As always, when you get stuck, checking out a tech-tips database may quickly identify your problem and solution.In that case, you can greatly simplify your troubleshooting or at least confirm a diagnosis before ordering parts.

Happy repairing!
Today, the West is headed for the abyss. For the ultimate fate of our disposable society is for that society itself to be disposed of. And this will happen sooner, rather than later.

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Note that if you don't find what you searched for, try it after a period of time; the site is a never ending job !

..............The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of todays funny gadgets low price has faded from memory........ . . . . . .....
Don't forget the past, the end of the world is upon us! Pretty soon it will all turn to dust!

©2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 Frank Sharp - You do not have permission to copy photos and words from this blog, and any content may be never used it for auctions or commercial purposes, however feel free to post anything you see here with a courtesy link back, btw a link to the original post here , is mandatory.
All posts are presented here for informative, historical and educative purposes as applicable within fair use. NOTHING HERE IS FOR SALE !

Wednesday 10 April 2019

APPLE IMAC G5 17 – DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE – HOW TO REPLACE THE POWER SUPPLY

Apple iMac G5 17 – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the power supply

Before you work on the computer, unplug the computer and press the power button for 20-30 seconds to drain the stored energy in the power supply.
Loosen the two Phillips screws securing the access door to your iMac. These screws are captive in the access door.
Remove the access door from your iMac.
Remove the three T8 Torx screws securing the front bezel to the rear panel.
Orient the iMac face-up, on its backside.
Use your thumbs to press both RAM arms in past the front bezel for enough clearance to lift it off the rear case.
While holding the RAM arms in with your thumbs, lift the lower edge of the front bezel enough to clear the rear case.
Re-orient your iMac so it sits upright on the stand.
Insert a plastic card up into the corner of the air vent slot at the top of the rear case.
Push the card toward the top of the iMac to release the front bezel latch.
Pull the front bezel away from the rear case.
Repeat this process for the other side of the front bezel.
It may be necessary to apply several layers of duct tape to the top of the access card to aid in releasing the latches.
If the bezel refuses to release, try pressing the lower edge back onto the rear case and repeat this opening process.
Lay your iMac stand-side down on a table.
Lift the front bezel from its lower edge and rotate it away from the rest of your iMac, minding the RAM arms that may get caught.
Lay the front bezel above the rest of the iMac.
If necessary, remove the piece of kapton tape wrapped around the microphone and camera cables.
Disconnect both the camera and microphone cables.
Peel back the aluminum EMI shield up off the lower three edges of the rear case.
It is not necessary to peel the EMI shield off the display.
We found it helpful to tape the EMI shield up against the display to keep it out of the way.
Remove the two 5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable to the logic board.
Using its attached black tab, pull the display data cable connector up off the logic board.
Pull the inverter cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.
Peel back the aluminum EMI tape from the two vertical edges of the display.
During reassembly, it is helpful to use several small strips of tape to hold the EMI shielding along the left and right edges of the display footprint out of the way before lowering the display into the rear case of your iMac.
Remove the four recessed coarse-thread 7.5 mm T10 Torx screws securing the display to the rear case.
These screws are recessed, so a thin screwdriver such as this is essential for removal. Bit drivers tend to be too short for this application.
Lift the display from its lower edge and pull it toward yourself to peel it off the EMI shield attached to its top edge.
Be mindful of any cables that may get caught during removal.
Disconnect the hard drive thermal sensor by pulling the connector away from its socket parallel to the ace of the hard drive.
Pressing the top of the hard drive bracket down to release it from the rear case requires a substantial amount of force, so we recommend laying your iMac stand-side down on a table to avoid knocking it over.
Press the hard drive bracket down toward the bottom edge of your iMac to free it from the rear case, then rotate the top of the drive toward yourself.
Lift the hard drive off its lower pins and pull it out of the rear case, minding the cables that are still attached.
When reinstalling the hard drive, be careful not to push the rubber grommets through the chassis with the hard drive pins as retrieving them may require logic board removal.
 Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the SATA power connector and the hard drive.
Twist the spudger to separate the SATA power connector from the hard drive.
Pull the SATA power connector away from the hard drive.
Pull the SATA data cable away from the hard drive.
Hard drive remains.
The next few steps bring your hands close to the exposed face of the power supply. Do not touch the face of the power supply to avoid a high voltage shock from the many large capacitors attached to the board.
Pull the power supply cable connector away from its socket to disconnect it from the DC to DC board.
Wiggling the connector while pulling it aids in removal.
Use a pair of tweezers to pull the AC-in cable out from underneath the chassis.
Disconnect the AC-in cable by depressing the lock mechanism while pulling the connector away from its socket.
Remove the four T10 Torx screws securing the power supply to the rear case.

The fine-thread screw belongs in the lower right corner of the power supply. When reinstalling the power supply, install the fine-threaded screw first.
Lift the power supply out of the rear case, minding the AC-in cable that may get caught.
Do not touch the face of the power supply board to avoid electric shock.