REPAIRING AND NOT THROWING AWAY

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

Richtige Fernseher haben Röhren!

In Brief: On this site you will find pictures and technical information about Service Modes, Circuit Diagrams, Firmware Update procedure, Disassemble procedure, Universal remote control set-up codes, Troubleshooting and more....

If you go into the profession, you will obtain or have access to a variety of tech tips databases HERE IT IS Master Electronics Repair !.

These are an excellent investment where the saying: 'time-is-money' rules. However, to learn, you need to develop a general troubleshooting approach - a logical, methodical, method of narrowing down the problem. A tech tip database might suggest: 'Replace C536' for a particular symptom. This is good advice for a specific problem on one model. However, what you really want to understand is why C536 was the cause and how to pinpoint the culprit in general even if you don't have a service manual or schematic and your tech tip database doesn't have an entry for your sick TV or VCR.

While schematics are nice, you won't always have them or be able to justify the purchase for a one-of repair. Therefore, in many cases, some reverse engineering will be necessary. The time will be well spent since even if you don't see another instance of the same model in your entire lifetime, you will have learned something in the process that can be applied to other equipment problems.
As always, when you get stuck, checking out a tech-tips database may quickly identify your problem and solution.In that case, you can greatly simplify your troubleshooting or at least confirm a diagnosis before ordering parts.

Happy repairing!
Today, the West is headed for the abyss. For the ultimate fate of our disposable society is for that society itself to be disposed of. And this will happen sooner, rather than later.

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..............The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of todays funny gadgets low price has faded from memory........ . . . . . .....
Don't forget the past, the end of the world is upon us! Pretty soon it will all turn to dust!

©2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 Frank Sharp - You do not have permission to copy photos and words from this blog, and any content may be never used it for auctions or commercial purposes, however feel free to post anything you see here with a courtesy link back, btw a link to the original post here , is mandatory.
All posts are presented here for informative, historical and educative purposes as applicable within fair use. NOTHING HERE IS FOR SALE !

Monday, 8 April 2019

HOW TO REPLACE THE SPEAKER OF MACBOOK PRO RETINA – APPLE MACBOOK PRO 15 INCH RETINA

How to replace the speaker of MacBook pro Retina – Apple MacBook Pro 15 Inch Retina


How to replace the speaker of MacBook pro Retina – Apple MacBook Pro 15 Inch Retina – How to remove the case – How to remove the logic board – How to disconnect the battery
 Apple MacBook Pro 15:  SPEAKER REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE 
Remove the following pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
Eight 3.0 mm
Two 2.3 mm
Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro. Set the lower case aside.
Battery Connector
Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.
Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
AirPort/Camera Cable
Use the tip of a spudger to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board. Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.
Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.
Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive.
Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.
Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.
The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them. Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.
I/O Board Cable
Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. On reassembly, connect this end first as it does not flex.
In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board connector from its socket on the I/O Board.
Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.
Right Fan
Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.
Grasp the thin sides of the AirPort card and pull parallel to the logic board, removing the AirPort card from the MacBook Pro.
Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the right fan cable to free it from the logic board. Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board.
Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:
One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw
One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar
Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.
Left Fan
Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.
Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:
One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar.
One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw
Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.
Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.
 Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board. Lift the left fan out of the device.
SSSD
Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.
Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer. Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not lift up on the I/O board data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.
Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board. Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.
Logic Board Assembly
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board Be sure to pry on the cable head, and not on the socket itself. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.
Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard ribbon cable connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.
Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Use the flat end of a spudger to push the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up out of its socket.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.
Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.
Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near the MagSafe 2 connector.
Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:
One 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw
One 2.5 mm T5 Torx screw One 5.5 mm silver, raised-head T5 Torx screw
Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws
One 3.8 mm silver T5 Torx screw
Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro. You may need to slide the logic board a few millimeters to the left in order to get clearance for the ports along the right edge of the board.
Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board.
Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.
Speakers
Remove the following three screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:
One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw
One 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw
One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw
Lift the left speaker out of the upper case and set it aside
Remove the following three screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:
One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw
One 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw
One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw
Remove the right speaker from the MacBook Pro